RCV SP engines

[Tony Read 2]

I bought a model at the Nats on Sunday and its fitted with a RCV SP. I believe its a 60 size. Never come across one of these before, but have found some info on Weston UK's website.

Are these engines good, bad or indifferent? I don't hear them mentioned at all. Turning the engine over by the prop its quite stiff, but that may be due to the reduction gearing? When you do turn it over you can hear and feel the gears 'meshing' together. Is this normal?

[Jon H]

RCV engines are variable, some are good and some not. A lot depends on how its been looked after. They can be a little fussy when it comes to props. I helped someone with a 120sp and it was a pain unless you used the one specific prop that it liked

[GrahamWh]

There should be a socket that you attach a starter to in order to avoid having to turn the prop. The prop turns once for every two turns of the starter shaft or something like that. The gearing is why you normally use very high load props on these - like 12x12s.

[J D 8]

If not been run for some time it's going to be stiff,put some fresh fuel in it and turn over with starter [no glow] and it will free up and you should feel less of the gears.You need an adapter for the starter and revers the polarity [on the batt] for motor to turn in the right direction. Follow cooling instructions it's important. Have run one in my Seagull SNJ for some years and like it because it's different and love the noise,very radial engine like sound.

[PeterF]

If it is a 60 then the prop you need is something like a 16 x 12, which it will turn over at something like 5,300rpm. I have a pair of older ones in a Mosquito (see avatar pic). The plug is very close to the propeller so a remote glow that stays on the plug is recommended to keep your fingers from that big prop. As noted, reverse the direction of the starter by swapping the battery wires. When starting, if you can not choke the carb (I can't on mine as fully cowled) then open the throttle fully, glow off, spin the motor over for a few seconds to prime the engine, then close the throttle down to start setting, switch on the glow and then spin the motor over again and it should fire up. They make a different noise to other engines. You also need to make sure that the firewall is well built as they develop twice the torque of a conventional engine.

Running in 2 x RCV 60SP engines on test stand

Mosquito flight with 2 x RCV 60SP

There are a few other vids on there of the engines running without the cowls when being set up.

Peter

Edited By PeterF on 27/08/2014 19:43:06

[Tony Read]

Thanks guys, much appreciated. I've never seen this type of engine before and am intrigued as to whether I can get it to run. How about putting an allen key into a cordless drill to turn it over?

The engine is fitted to a nice Balsa USA Bristol M1, so is it too much engine for the model? My first thoughts were to electrify the Bristol and sell the RCV on, but they do sound nicer than an electric!

That's a great Mosquito Peter!

[Stephen Jones]

I have a 60 SP strapped to the front of a Acro Wot , When it runs it flies it a treat , although i have problems with it over heating and thats without the cowl on in winter .

Due to the size of the prop needed i have a four blade on it , i think it`s a 14x10 .

The Exhaust has come of it due to the heat , i think .

also i have had to beef up the engine mounts several times due to it working lose.

I have even contemplated making a water cooling system for it . and it is noisy .

i am not too impressed with mine

Steve

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

Posted by Tony Read on 27/08/2014 21:52:18:

Thanks guys, much appreciated. I've never seen this type of engine before and am intrigued as to whether I can get it to run. How about putting an allen key into a cordless drill to turn it over?

I'd be a little wary in case the Allen key didn't want to come out once it was running - they are usually started with the aid of a helicopter style extension with a one way bearing.

Example

Edited By Martin Harris on 27/08/2014 23:48:26

[Jon H]

In my experience with the 120 I used that behind the prop starting was bloody lethal. trying to reach over the model with this great long stick attached to a heavy starter was precarious at best. It was far safer starting it the normal way and it worked just fine by hand or with a starter.

The thing that was frustrating was that on the one prop we found that it liked it did run well but on everything else it was a clattery, noisy overheating pile of disappointment.

Steven, are there any baffles in the cowling of the wot? if not some baffles might help you. It should also be noted that there is a water jacket available for the marine version. I think its a whole new cylinder, but I saw it at wings and wheels a few years back and asked if the water jacket version could be used in an aircraft. Im not sure who he was, but at first the chap looked at me like I had fallen off another planet, then after a few seconds had the look of 'why didn't I think of that?'. As nothing has come of it I assume they didn't take it further.

[J D 8]

When starting mine I stand behind the motor feet in front of tailplane.

[Tony Read 2]

As the model is a 60" 'cartoon' scale WW1 monoplane it really needs to have a two blade prop. I'm thinking that 16x12 is too much prop for this size of aircraft????

[J D 8]

Run mine with a 14x10 in SNJ [ US NAVY texan] only inch clearance when fuzz level. If you look at full size WW1 props they tend to be quite large for the aircraft they are fitted on and have a fearsome pitch.

[Engine Doctor]

Hi If you want it to run properly and not overheat you must fit some air ducts in the cowl to direct air through the fins as John Harper has posted. This engine is notorious for over heating . even uncowled they will over heat and stop . The CD is much better in that respect but good luck with it.