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Warbird Replicas Spitfire LF mk IXc


Ady Hayward

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Surprisingly my SBus decoder turned up yesterday at 10pm via the Royal Mail.

 

That meant today is play day.

 

David you were dead on with your comment, I have tested every SBus receiver I have (excluding the Spektrum compatible ones) in conjunction with the FrSky 4 channel decoder and in every instance the output timing to the servo from the decoder is 9ms not 20ms.

 

This will mean I will leave the spitfire wiring as is and use the decoder on the Lanc with digital servos when it happens.

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On 18/03/2021 at 18:52, RICHARD WILLS said:

Good stuff Andy . I am doing similar , Have also taken 15mm off the front , battery in from the top as I wanted to fit a speaker in the base of the "tank bay " . The top of the cowl is just held on with magnets . 

My battery is at 30 degrees as it is over the speaker at the back , but under the motor at the front . 

If we compare notes at the end , I can come up with a variation on the original MkIX kit that will include the changes that are worth doing . Balance is looking good for us both at this stage . 

I will be using a more rounded spinner , 3 outlet exhaust stacks and outside armour plate canopy . 

Should be able to duplicate that lot if required . 

It would be nice to produce a bespoke BOB Spitfire kit with lots of detail at some point . 

If you do that, please sign me up for that definitive Spitfire Mk 1A (or II at a push) - the MKIX is nice, but the early mark is nicer. ?

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Play day has now lead to confusion.

 

As stated, the SBus decoder is outputting at around 9ms (111hz measured).

I have connected up a range of servos and all except 1 work perfectly so I have left them to cook and all seem OK, no heat build up or jitters.

I tried 2 retract units separately, one does nothing, the other cycles continuously.

 

I will stick to my Spitfires current set up and pose this question on the thread that Chris linked to earlier.

 

Back to the planes.....

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I don’t know the precise mechanism for analogue servos becoming damaged by higher frame refresh rates but it strikes me that it’s just possible that running the servo smoothly from end to end might be less stressful than it receiving frequent ‘corrections’ to a nominally held position. Probably nonsense, but perhaps best not to treat a successful soak test as definitive.

 

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Thanks for that Trevor.

 

Nice one David, my bays have a lot more free space around the wheels than yours do, having said that mine are lined with 1/16" balsa with the lining under the edges of the skins.

 

Too dark to take pictures now but I have just put mine together to check the CoG with my light battery fitted and it is still nose heavy which bodes well for when it is covered and painted. Currently weighs 2270g or 5lbs exactly with battery.

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OK, so I have a question. Thanks to my slight misalignment of the skins, I ended up having to strip off about 3mm. This ends up with me having a slight gap where the wing sits in the fuselage. My question is - should I set up the wing such that it sits with the gap (appropriately filled/hidden) at the front, a bit of both, or at the back. If it helps sway the decision, it seems to sit better somewhat in the middle... A couple of pics:

IMG_20210401_130327.thumb.jpg.b7f446e719dae63be45ed117d10f3ac2.jpg

 

IMG_20210401_130305.thumb.jpg.2bac912ddfc6edc30c966d529a3a6610.jpg\

 

Now obviously there are going to be the fillets in place above the wing and the filler and the carb scoop, so it can all be hidden. But... Thoughts?

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I laugh at a 3mm discrepancy David . Sit the wing where it feels comfortable in the middle . Make a little rectangular plate out of the 3mm scrap hardwood to fill the gap between F2 and the leading edge . Put a hole in it to match F2 and ensure that the new "doubler " is securely glued to F2 . 

People often get concerned about the central wing joint having a gap . Yours doesnt , but it really makes no difference as the long dihedral braces reaching into each wing do the work , not two R1's glued together . 

Its always good to think about where the stresses really are on a model and then you realise that 90% is cosmetic .

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1 hour ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

I laugh at a 3mm discrepancy David . Sit the wing where it feels comfortable in the middle . Make a little rectangular plate out of the 3mm scrap hardwood to fill the gap between F2 and the leading edge . Put a hole in it to match F2 and ensure that the new "doubler " is securely glued to F2 . 

People often get concerned about the central wing joint having a gap . Yours doesnt , but it really makes no difference as the long dihedral braces reaching into each wing do the work , not two R1's glued together . 

Its always good to think about where the stresses really are on a model and then you realise that 90% is cosmetic .

 

Thank you good sir. That was my plan and you've just made me feel a little more secure! ?

 

Hopefully things will start to come together a little more rapidly now and it won't be all that long before I start venturing into covering territory...

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David,

 

I have those gaps too which is quite normal with any kit and quite a few ARTF machines too.

Reasons can be many, wood shrinking, over enthusiastic sanding, most are due to the plane being hand built and no ones hands being the same.

 

As Richard says, fill the gaps with some of the scrap wood - I used balsa left overs from the laser cut sheets. Just choose the thickness to suit the gap, cut the packing oversize so it "hangs out" into the air stream and do not sand it down until you have added the under wing sections to blend wing to fuselage and blend them together in one hit.

 

I have made a start on the under wing intake which has to be fitted to the LE blend in section. Again I have been using left overs since I have used sheeting to replace a lot of the block work.

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I have just received some pictures of another Lock Down Spitfire ready to maiden. Robert Stainsby is the rightly proud builder of this beauty . 

Its a classic Johnny Johnson Spit ,as you can see . 

Robert is a jeweller and is due back at work on 12th after a typical Furlough lay off , just long enough to get the paint work done in time for the nice weather . 

I reckon he's he's made a "gold edition " version. Should fly like a diamond.....

(Sorry , just cant help myself sometimes) 

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