Glyn44 Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Hi all, I need to buy a few of the following type of adjusters. They are off of a Wot 4. Problem is I have no idea what they are called, so that I can order some. If there is an alternative please tell me. The metal upright has become very loose giving loads of slop in the control. I don't like it. It is the only way of adjusting the the control surface. Cheers Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Search for, servo push rod conector Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TinPot Pilot Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 They are usually known as a linkage stopper and are available in 3 sizes here . I believe they may have other names as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Bernard Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Glyn, These are 'push rod connector' and SLEC has them on this page. However I would have thought that the issue is not that you need a new connector, but that either the connector wants tightening on the arm, (usually there is a star washer that can be pushed further towards the arm - but not sure what it is on your picture), or else the hole in the arm has worn so needs replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Jones Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Personally I think they're hateful things and wouldn't touch them with the proverbial barge pole. I'd suggest going to a traditional metal clevis or better still, ball links if you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Same feelings as matt, buy some Z bend pliers and replace then. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 Hi thanks all Colin, you are dead right but the tightening is just a piece of hard plastic tube, it's rubbish and the slop has of course worn the hole. I think I will go for a direct z bend and remove any error with sub trim. Unfortunately there is insuffient room to solder on a clevis's extender before the control rod disappears into the fuse. But thanks to you all I can get it sorted now. Much obliged, Kind regards Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanR Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Glyn, can I please use your thread to ask a newbie question? I do not like linkage stoppers either - the method of retaining the stopper to the servo arm seems very iffy to me. We are told to centre the control surface mechanically as much as possible and not use sub trim. But if Glyn (or I) has a z bend at both ends of the control rod, how can he avoid using sub trim? Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Best place for them is in the bin as has been said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.. Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Personally I only use these on the throttle linkage and used there they offer an easy set up , but I do wince a bit when I see them used on the control surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Hi Ian, it sounds like you might be refering to my recent article in the mag! So I'll try to help answer your question The key point is that you really should not be in a situation where neither end of the linkage is adjustable. If you have a Z-bend on one end then on the other you need an adjustable link - either a screw-in clevis or a ball-link. This way the linkage is always capable of fine adjustment without using sub-trim. Of course you do have to make your Z-bend as accurate as you can because whilst the other end is adjustable the range of safe movement is limited. Hope this helps. BEB PS I don't like these so-called end adjusters either and won't use them. If they are supplied with a kit I just replace them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Linkages of that type are ok as long as they have a steel washer and nut and you threadlock them on securely - if you dont threadlock them the nut will work loose and drop off quickly followed by the control rod..... They are usefull where space is at a premium and space for a clevis and adjustor isnt available But personally I prefer to solder an threaded adaptor onto the pushrod then screw on a clevis to the adaptor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 And I thought Chris Foss planes were the business! So why does his plane designed use these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 They are cheap - and low skill. The devices that is - not the makers! To be fair an awful lot of kits from manufacturers that should know better use them. BEB Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 21/08/2015 16:27:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 I agree with all this and agree that they are risky if used with a smooth control rod. I have used them successfully without a problem with studding or the screw portion of the threaded control rod, which just winds into the hole of the link, so if the screw falls out, as it has on my JP, the rod stays attached with the screw thread. To adjust it, I just take off the servo arm and wind it onto the thread back and to. This works even better if you are using the 2.5mm studding supplied with Sullivan control rods. You get that little extra diameter to bit into the hole. I hope this makes sense. I have however, on later models, used thread lock on the screw to keep it in position. I have to say that it makes the adjustment of the trim much easier than having to keep taking off and removing the clevis. The problem I have is making the hole in the servo arm the right diameter to avoid slop where the clevis fits into the hole. That I have found to be more of a problem - constant movement wearing away the plastic, particularly in wings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.. Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Posted by Glyn Calow on 21/08/2015 16:24:38: And I thought Chris Foss planes were the business! So why does his plane designed use these? The Chris Foss designs are indeed the business Glyn but sadly when produced as ARTF kits by Ripmax the supplied fittings leave a lot to be desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 For me it's a bit of horses for courses, for small electric models this type of push rod connector is fine and I've had some in use for several years and they've been fine. For larger electric and IC models then Z bends, swing keepers and normal clevises are my preferred option. BTW the Ripmax Wots Wot doesn't use these but Z bends and regular clevises and closed loop on the rudder so no complaints there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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