Simon Chaddock Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 And don't forget at such levels of scale you really should also fit a LH prop. For some reason Frank Halford designed the DH Gipsy to run the opposite way to convention! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 Posted by Simon Chaddock on 08/11/2015 00:27:19: And don't forget at such levels of scale you really should also fit a LH prop. For some reason Frank Halford designed the DH Gipsy to run the opposite way to convention! I suppose with an electric motor I could do just that but I think I'll just go with fitting a LH prop for display purposes Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Posted by Simon Chaddock on 08/11/2015 00:27:19: And don't forget at such levels of scale you really should also fit a LH prop. For some reason Frank Halford designed the DH Gipsy to run the opposite way to convention! Perhaps he had to hand swing it? My fairly limited experience flick starting Gypsy Majors in Chipmunks made me rather glad that he had - I think I would have felt far less comfortable using my left hand and was always glad not to have been asked to swing a Lycoming or similar - although subsequently, I've seen videos of Cubs being swung from behind the prop with the pilot's right hand.. Lefties may see it differently! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Crook Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 The thing about the prop going the wrong way is that the front air intake is on the wrong side. Not so critical with EP but I remember installing a deflector plate to force the air over my 4-stroke's fins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Geoff I made the corrugations out of litho. Anneal the litho sheet and cut to size of the tank top, sides, bottom etc. Place the litho on some soft balsa sheet, and score the litho with help of a dowel of suitable dia and straight edge. You may need to experiment a bit with the dia and shape of the pointy bit of the dowel to achieve the desired size of corrugations. Too pointy and it would pierce through, too thick and it makes too fat corrugations. I made the dowel out of some scrap bamboo dowel progressively sanded down to require nose profile. The litho could be easily stuck down to the wood frame using appropriate glue Not the best picture of the result but this is what I could find currently on the puter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I was fairly pleased with my tank - not in the super scale class but acceptable for a sport scale job. All done with a sheet of 'postcard' type card and a coat of silver dope. A bit of dirtying up would probably improve it a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Don't forget to make a sight glass and fuel cock ! Here are some pictures to get your creative juices flowing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Still work in progress but here's what the corrugated copper sheet looks like on mine. Edited By John Lee on 08/11/2015 18:18:50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I am amazed you managed to get it to bend around the curves without kinking! Tell us how you did it John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 No special technique, it simply bends around easily by hand. The sheet is only 0.1mm thick so it's just like bending thin copper wire - except it's a bit wider of course! You can also cut it easily with a modelling knife or scissors. Edited By John Lee on 08/11/2015 18:51:42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Trevor I had no worries using both hands together on the grounds for any degree of pull there was less reaction on my body thus the direction of rotation made no difference. The bigger problem with some Gipsy and most Lycoming was the metal prop. Its sharper trailing edge was rather harder on the fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Posted by Percy Verance on 08/11/2015 20:05:48: That's good to hear John. It certainly looks the part. Will it be ok with paint applied? The side panels also look very effective........ Which kit was/is this John, the Veron job? Edited By Percy Verance on 08/11/2015 20:06:50 Thanks, I don't anticipate any problem with the paint Percy, I'll probably start with a dusting of metal primer. No it's from the RBC kit at 1.2 meters span. The CNC parts fit well and it looks pretty accurate but the kit leaves an awful lot to the imagination. It's probably my 8th or 9th Tiggy but the build left me wondering if the manufacturers ever tried making one from the kit. There are no instructions, just a photo and sketch montage and some of the illustrations do not correspond to the kit components; e.g. I found the center carbine assembly had a Catch 22 & was impossible to build as illustrated. That said I'm pleased with the result so far and as the weather deteriorates I'll pick up the build which has been on hold over the summer months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 Posted by Manish Chandrayan on 08/11/2015 16:21:19: Geoff I made the corrugations out of litho. Anneal the litho sheet and cut to size of the tank top, sides, bottom etc. That's worth trying. I was thinking I'd have to mill a groove in a piece of hardwood. How do you anneal the lithoplate? John Lee: That looks really good, John. I thought that, at 0.1mm it might be thin enough to bend round the curve of the tank. I'm going to try the corrugated card first and Lithoplate then perhaps some better 2mm cord (perhaps strimmer cord) but I have a feeling I'm going to go your route in the end. Spent the day painting the pilot and other oddments. I also printed out a couple of instrument panels on photographic paper using the one published on this site. Not as good as a 3D one with properly simulated instruments but good enough for me. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo565 Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Geoff Check out the 4D model shop Its in London and it carries all sorts of plastic corrugated sheets for models in various spacings. Its bends quite nicely with a little bit of heat. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 I received 10 sheets of Flame Red A4 sized corrugated card this morning and just 1 sheet has completed the job to my satisfaction. I manged to curve the card round both ends of the tank with just a little creasing. Not perfect but this is a sport scale model I'm building and just putting enough detail on to satisfy my moderate ambitions. The corrugations are 2.5mm apart which results in about 40 across the width of the tank. That's very similar to the tank on the full size. I even manged to put some on the sides which is above and beyond for my purposes - I'll be counting rivets next! The only drawback is that the corrugations are across the sheet which means that it's not quite long enough to go right round the front. I was going to add a bit on but, in the end decided to paint the last bit. It's only visible if you turn the plane upside down. I used UHU Por, left to dry for 15 minutes, for a fairly rapid grab. The material is actual card rather than plastic so I applied a coat of Wilko's water-based varnish for better durability. No paint needed as the colour is almost a perfect match for the rest of the red bits. The card was very cheap - £3.50 for 10 sheets posted. I'll keep 4 for future use so I have 5 spare for anyone who needs it. I'd appreciate a suitable envelope because I don't have any A4 but that's all. Now on to the rib stitching. Fortunately all the photos II have seem to show plain, rather than pinked edged, rib tape so that should be easy. I think I'll cheat a bit by only fitting stitching under the tapes on the tops of the wings and the tail. Thanks for all the suggestions Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Posted by Geoff Sleath on 10/11/2015 19:57:19: Now on to the rib stitching. Fortunately all the photos II have seem to show plain, rather than pinked edged, rib tape so that should be easy. I think I'll cheat a bit by only fitting stitching under the tapes on the tops of the wings and the tail. Thanks for all the suggestions Geoff Hi Geoff I recently had a flight in a Tiger Moth. I was amazed at just how inconspicuous the tapes and the stitching was. In fact, the stitching wasn't noticeable on the full size and would be invisible on anything less than 1/3 scale. Not sure how typical that is, you really need to check your own prototype. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 Posted by Percy Verance on 11/11/2015 13:38:28: Glad you got sorted Geoff........ Yes, thanks to you again I never thought of corrugated card. In fact I didn't know it even existed until you mentioned having bought some from Asda so I searched eBay.. Martyn I see aTiger Moth regularly over our flying field. Unfortunately (or fortunately if we're flying) it's at , or should be at, over 1600' AGL so even with my super vision I can't see the rib tapes clearly The photos I've got of G-ACDC certainly show both the stitching and tape quite clearly. I took a few photos of it (not enough!) when I saw it at Stowe Maries a couple of years ago. I think I'll perservere because, if nothing else, it adds a bit to the model. I'm not really a scale builder but I'm going a bit further with this one than I usually do. It's still only a sport model, though. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Manzur Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 B&Q do a corrugated ali sheet. A bit pricey but it can be gently bent to the right shape. Not sure if I have any pics, but it looked superb on my old J Perkings big Tiggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinlad Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 I also used strimmer line to make the corrugations on my 1/4 scale Tiggie. Each piece of line was cyanoed on, after carefully spacing it to it's neighbouring piece, and the finished tank looks good - though perhaps a little heavy, which makes no difference to the big Tiggie. (I use ASP180 FS engines on my 3 Tiggies) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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