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Hammerite


David Davis
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No comment re fuel proofing - but a word of warning in the case of the formulation of Hammerite is still as it was.

Read the tin carefully. When it gives time for recoating believe them. If I remember correctly, they say something like "recoat before 24 hours or after a month"

I got caught with this. If you cannot recoat quickly enough the paint comes up in cracks and craters like a miniature lunar landscape.

Plummet

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Posted by Plummet on 05/03/2017 17:14:34:

No comment re fuel proofing - but a word of warning in the case of the formulation of Hammerite is still as it was.

Read the tin carefully. When it gives time for recoating believe them. If I remember correctly, they say something like "recoat before 24 hours or after a month"

I got caught with this. If you cannot recoat quickly enough the paint comes up in cracks and craters like a miniature lunar landscape.

Plummet

Unless you had hammerite smooth this is how the finish is supposed to be. Hammered enamal hence hammerite.

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Posted by Doug Campbell on 05/03/2017 22:18:11:

Unless you had hammerite smooth this is how the finish is supposed to be. Hammered enamal hence hammerite.

No, no, no,

There is a huge difference between a smooth hammerite finish that looks blodgey (and rather nice, in my opinion) and a surface that will grate skin (that I got.)

I was using 'smooth yellow hammerite' on a car bodyshell. It looked far from pristine!

Plummet

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I used the smooth version of Hammerstein on a cowl, the paint was a few years old when I used it, it looked ok at first but it wasn't fuel proof to 10% nitro. I don't know if this was due to the age of the paint or just that it's not fuel resistant but I won't try it again. I hope this helps.

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Not an answer to your question David

But Hamerite's claim to fame was to resist weather, and this was achieved by painting it on

Super thick; instructed to lay it on

This goes against all our lightweight requirements

Whatever paint I use on cowls, I allow this to dry, 2 days at least, and a week if I have time

then airbrush on 2 thin coats of standard fuel proofer (Balsa Cabin)

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I sprayed my Precedent Stampe with Hammerite Smooth blue and silver, also my Mustang with silver which goes on a treat. The blue, however, gave problems, possibly due to a second coat going on too late. I fuel proofed with ordinary skinning/moulding epoxy, eventually settling for brushing this on the wings and most of the rest other than the cowl.

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I only wanted to use it on the aluminium cowling of my "Baron 1914," a very popular trainer here in France which looks vaguely like a Fokker Eindekker. Given the small size of the cowling, weight gain would not be an issue and I was mainly concerned about whether this paint was fuel-proof enough to withstand 10% nitro fuel.I suppose the simplest thing would be to leave it in the natural aluminium.

I have used Hamerite on the wheels and underside of my 1974 Rover Dwain.

p6.jpg

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Good post David! I was also tempted to use hammerite smooth white on my recently built Wot 4 kit. Reasoning was that cellulose car paint doesn't seem to be easily available in cans and I don't want to spray. ( I used Dulux undercoat in the end and coated it with Spectra polyurethane. ) . If I had used smooth hammerite I could have used my 2 pack Klear Kote fuel proofer that is properly fuel proof. (I use epoxy as fuel proofer inside the model). It's still a pain for me painting models and fuel proofing. Doesn't seem to have improved since I started in the 1970s. Ps that's s lovely finish Martin!

 

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 10/03/2017 09:58:46

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  • 1 month later...

A few months ago I borrowed a set of car ramps from a friend.They were rather rusty so I painted them with black Hammerite. I was passing her house today so popped in, squirted some model aeroplane fuel (10% nitro) onto a rag and rubbed it vigorously over the ramp. There was no staining on the rag.

That's good enough for me. Hammerite is fuel proof if you give it enough time to harden off! smiley.

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I used smooth Hammerite on an old AcroWot undercarriage to replace the (much too solid!) original one on my SpaceWalker. The two are visually identical, but the AcroWot one is a lot more suitable for our field! The Hammerite red is an almost exact match for the red on the SpaceWalker! laugh

The engine is mounted at an angle, so that the exhaust exits between the u/c legs. So far, it has proven remarkably resilient to hot glow fuel!

The only proviso I would add is that the engine is a Super-Tigre, so straight fuel, no nitro.

--

Pete

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This could be my painting pain finished for ever. I hate painting and hate the sticky mess made when nitro fuel starts eating the paint. Klear Kote fuel proofer is no good on oil based non celulose paint so I was stuck with using polyurethane varnish to fuel proof which I found a poor substitute. Coating with clear epoxy doesn't work well on the outside as it darkens gradually when exposed to light and I find often has a bumpy pinholed surface. It's going to be brush on hammerite for me next time!!

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