Geof54 Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Hello, I am changing the connectors ( to xt60) on an E-Pioneer I bought second hand. The ESC was ok but now I have a problem with the new Turnigy 3300 4s lipos.I bought. The leads ( 4mm bullit - from HK) seem too thick for the cup on the xt60 connector. Also is a 40 watt soldering iron sufficient for the job as it doesn't seem to be able to tin the end of the lead. very well. Thanks Geof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Hi Geof, I had the same experience. What I did, and this may stir up some opinions. was to snip a little of the lead away to make it slightly thinner, also get some solder on your iron, the flux then helps to melt the solder quicker,and aids tinning. The alternative is to go for XT90's, I have some but they are considerably bigger, so I persevered with the 60's Hope this helps D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew767 Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 I've done the same as D.D. without any problems but it could be a slow process with a 40 watt soldering iron. A bit bigger would be better me thinks! Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Crook Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Yes, I too have cut some of the conductors before twisting the remainder, then tinning. There is still plenty of cross-sectional area for the electricity, and heatshrink provides mechanical integrity. Never had a problem I use a 60W iron as you can work quickly and reduce the risk of melting the connector body. These are available quite cheaply from firms such as CPC Farnell. Plugging the connector you are working on into a spare mating half is another good trick - if the plastic does soften at least nothing will move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 That's good news Guys.................I thought I was going to get slayed....... Good tip Trevor, I do that as well. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Bad bad people...you have reduced the cross sectional area of the battery cable causing a reduction in current carrying capacity, increasing the overall resistance of the circuit and upset the mighty spirit of electron flow! You are all doomed I say...doomed... Actually you are right ... it does not make a lot of difference if its a few strands and a well soldered joint will always be better than twisting them together and sticking some Selotape over the wires... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon Brown Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 I use one of those small butane powered soldering irons for this sort of job as a 40 Watt electric probably doesn't have the grunt to do the job very well and I also use traditional lead/tin solder, not the lead free stuff that needs a higher temperature. Flux cored lead/tin solder is available from Rapid Electronics and other mail order suppliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Hi Geof, Some time ago I bought a ‘soldering third hand / heatsink / positioning device / all in one’ thingie for connectors from Banggood at +/- €9. I just never saw it or being mentioned on any of the build blogs I visited but as I had a very helpful use of it, I thought I could share it here. It is suitable to receive different kinds of connectors and keep them firmly in place during the soldering process. Both sides are different and handle different sizes of bullet connectors (2mm up to 8mm), male and female XT60 & 90 (avoiding the nylon to be potentially ‘deformed’ by the heat), Dean, mini T and ‘bananas’. It also features a welcomed 'bakelite' insulation for the bullet connectors. I was quite a bit surprised that even this apprentice seemed suddenly to become very close to a ‘soldering guru’… If others are interested, here is the link as it is not that easy to locate in that enormous shop > XQ Alloy Soldering Station. By the way, BG also has different 60W / temperature adjustable soldering irons. ... and the same as DD (Double Doom?) & others, for sure I'll finish in hell as well... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Cooper Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 It may seem obvious to some but cut the wires from the centre of the wire. So as not to have the "step" on the outside of the wire.This leeds to a neater job and prevents wiskers forming to cause possible shorts in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geof54 Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 Thanks for all your advice.so far, I am thinking I should : 1. Buy a new soldering iron. I previously thought of buying a 50W variable temperature one from 4max or is a standard 60W better ? Is the Weller (instant) pistol one any good ? 2. Remove some of the wiring. 3 Can I use an adapter ? I still have 2 batteries with original connectors. Geof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Geeof54 To solder thick wires (which are also very good conductors of heat) your not only need heat energy (Watts) to get the bit hot but also heat "capacity" so that the bit does not cool down too rapidly when it comes into contact with the cold metal in the joint. It is the copper volume of the bit that controls the heat capacity available. The Weller type pistols are poor in this respect. My favoured iron for soldering thick wires is only 60W but it has a solid copper bit 39 mm by 15 mm by 60 mm long. It takes several minutes for the iron to heat up but once hot the heat transfer is so quick that even on a an XT60 (or a Deans) the iron only has to briefly touch the work for the solder to flow completely throughout the joint. A jig to hold everything in place makes life so much easier! Edited By Simon Chaddock on 14/05/2017 12:26:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark a Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 There are many forms of adapters for the XT60 plug on e-bay, it might be worth a look. I recently bought one for a couple of 4s packs that I have which have bullet connectors. Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bennett Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 You certainly can use adapters, but each extra connector is another potential failure point, and introduces a slight extra resistance into your system. Much better to solder XT60s onto the packs which have bullets. With separate bullets you always have a higher risk of the leads shorting together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Ogden Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 I recently bought a 100watt soldering iron from Maplins, **LINK** , cost all of £15 and is excellent for soldering XT90 connectors with fairly thick wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Simon's right. You need either a very powerful heat controlled iron which will keep the bit temperature at the right level or, just a big iron with a lot of thermal inertia so that it stays hot. I prefer the latter for XT60s. I've had my Henley Solon 125 watt iron for about 60 years and it's been man enough to resolder vintage motorcycle petrol tanks in the past so XT60s are child's play. No problem with losing some of the wire strands so they fit in the bucket. You're not going to be drawing that much current anyway and the increase in resistance will be zero to negligible because the reduced wire will be soldered into the connector. I always use a 3rd hand gadget which has a heavy base and croc clips to hold the 2 things you're soldering in position. Don't try to hold the wire in your fingers - despite being insulated it will get too hot to hold and movement will make for a poor joint. Good idea to remove strands from the middle. I've never done it in the past but I will in the future. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZ e flyer Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Having worked as an elevator tech for many years, I've done more than a little soldering. I use a butane soldering iron (weller brand and dremel) because it is easy to control the temperature so no need for 40, 60. 100 watt. It's all in one handy little tool. Plus it's more manoeuverable and doubles as a heat gun or blow torch. My biggest tip is don't "paint" the solder on. Heat the job, not the solder. When the job is hot the Solder will run where it needs to and follow the heat. Also preparation is the key to a neat job. Some wires like battery cables that are silver in color not copper, are a pain to solder unless you prep first. Use a sharp blade or fine grit wet and dry to clean some of the silver off to expose the copper and the solder will attach and flow much more easily. By the way I like that jig for holding terminals. Think I will order one. TP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Hot tip learnt the hard way! Don't forget to slide the heat shrink onto the disconnected wires BEFORE you solder them onto the new connector. DOH ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Absolutely, Glyn. ... and don't slide the two bits of heat shrink onto the SAME wire of the Lipo either... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 ... and when you twist the wire ends, don't forget to use gloves or tissue. You don't want all that grease on your fingers getting on your nicely cleaned wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 I bought one of these soldering jigs. Hold about everything. Nice. **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy48 Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Posted by Sparks on 16/05/2017 08:42:52: ... and when you twist the wire ends, don't forget to use gloves or tissue. You don't want all that grease on your fingers getting on your nicely cleaned wires. Completely unnecessary, the heat and the flux soon gets rid of any residual oil/grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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