David McCulloch Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Can anyone advise the best way to tighten a prop when you are using a motor with the shaft attached to the rear,I have a Seagull Mustang and as you try to tighten the shaft turns with the nut , apart from holding the end of the shaft with could damage the threads I cannot see a way round it. Help David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 David you need to increase the friction between the rear of the prop hub and the front face of the prop driver. I've managed to do this sometimes just by scoring the surface of the prop hub by rubbing a flat file across it. If this doesn't work, I've also had success by glueing a disk of sandpaper to one of the surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 First off, try applying slight angular pressure to the prop to lock it to the driver and jerk the spanner rather than applying steady pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Posted by Martin Harris on 13/10/2017 19:38:29: First off, try applying slight angular pressure to the prop to lock it to the driver and jerk the spanner rather than applying steady pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Carefuly file a couple of flats on the prop driver to take a spanner. For close fitting spinners use a thin stamped steel spanner that's meant for occasional use instead of the "proper" one shown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Cone spanners intended for adjusting cup and cone bicycles wheel bearings are very thin. They're 13,14,15 and 16mm across the flats so probably about right for the job. At least my Campagnolo ones are. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Cut a slot in the end and hold it with a screwdriver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Posted by Geoff Sleath on 13/10/2017 21:14:02: Cone spanners intended for adjusting cup and cone bicycles wheel bearings are very thin. They're 13,14,15 and 16mm across the flats so probably about right for the job. At least my Campagnolo ones are. Geoff The thin spanners I have [not the ones in the photo] were cheapos, supplied with a lawn mower & I forget what else. I filed out the flats on the spanners to suit the prop drives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Pat, I'm not suggesting anyone dashes out and invests in Campagnolo spanners. They're just the ones I have because I did a lot of bike maintenance/building at one time. There are cheap ones available for very little (at least there were) I've always succeeded using the Martin Harris method and haven't had a prop come off (yet!). Fortunately electric motors don't have the same tendency to throw props as some glow 4 strokes do. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 There are piston stop pins available that screw into the plug hole. They are available from Speed something or something Speed. Helicopter shop. They hold piston below T.D.C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 Posted by onetenor on 14/10/2017 01:23:50: There are piston stop pins available that screw into the plug hole. They are available from Speed something or something Speed. Helicopter shop. They hold piston below T.D.C. Didn't Alex Whittaker do an article about that in the RCME ages ago? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 If Martin's 'catch it by surprise' method doesn't work, I usually find that a patch of double sided tape (not the thick, servo mounting sort!) on the back of the prop does the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David McCulloch Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 Many thanks for all your helpful replies, the one I went for in the end was from Ron Gray, thanks Ron it works a treat problem solved. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 Posted by onetenor on 14/10/2017 01:23:50: There are piston stop pins available that screw into the plug hole. They are available from Speed something or something Speed. Helicopter shop. They hold piston below T.D.C.. I recall now the piston stop pins are from Fast Lad Performance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy48 Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 The OP says the shaft is attached to the rear, this is an electric motor, however job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 Glad it worked for you David. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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