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Laser Engines - Technical questions


Jon H

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The radial mount was iirc an extra bolting to the backplate. It's a 2014 model, probably less than 3 hours running in total. I can't cope with bigger models now so it's been sitting in a corner sulking for the last year and a half.

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Edited By Bob Cotsford on 03/04/2018 13:46:53

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Posted by Bob Cotsford on 03/04/2018 13:47:40:

and shouldn't you be hefting CNC machines into place at the new site? wink

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 03/04/2018 13:47:56

I have the high prestige job of painting shelves at the moment. the fumes are nice but i feel im wasting my talents.

In if memory serves you are looking at 450 for your version of the engine plus 15 for the backplate when it was new

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Posted by Bob Cotsford on 03/04/2018 17:13:35:

Cheers Jon. You could always get inventive with the shelf paint schemes. One western desert light and dark sand, another BoB light earth and dark green (with a black and white underside) etc..

My favourite...eggshell blue

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Posted by bert baker on 07/04/2018 16:34:03:

I ran the 150 petrol conversion I knocked together today,,, it was ok at top end but pump struggled at idle,,,,

3000 was lowest reliable idle,,,tipped out at 6600.on. A 18/8 wood prop

That's about what I would expect. What was the issue at idle? you might need a substantial lean off

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Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 07/04/2018 20:11:09:
Posted by Phil 9 on 07/04/2018 19:01:35:

The sound of my laser 70 is v​ery soft and quiet is there a good way to make it sound more sporty

just take the exhaust off!

what size tube will I need to make a straight pipe. I still will need to take the exhaust out of the model

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I did richen it up to about two and a half on both needles,

Prior to that it would die off when needles were set to the normal 1/14 ,

I had to keep chocking it by placing a finge near the Venturi to keep it. Running,,, turning out the needles helped,,,

It was the first run,.,,, but pretty sure the pump is lame,I may fit a testbed signal to pump and let the pop of valve earn its keep,, so probably won't be long before I am added to the list for a 180 petrol

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Posted by Phil 9 on 07/04/2018 20:50:09:
Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 07/04/2018 20:11:09:
Posted by Phil 9 on 07/04/2018 19:01:35:

The sound of my laser 70 is v​ery soft and quiet is there a good way to make it sound more sporty

just take the exhaust off!

what size tube will I need to make a straight pipe. I still will need to take the exhaust out of the model

cant remember off the top of my head. If you measure/copy the stub on your current exhaust then you wont go far wrong.

Try and keep whatever you make as light as possible. Don't use brass or copper if you can avoid it as its really heavy and the exhaust clip isn't intended for that sort of load

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Posted by Don Fry on 08/04/2018 14:01:30:
Posted by John Stainforth on 08/04/2018 12:11:58:

Bob,

I am looking for a radial mount 160V.

John

Sorry mate, it's sold, paid for, and its mine, and going in an Xtrawot to complete its running in.

Yep, I've packed an English-French phrase book in with it and sent it off to Franceland. It might even discover what 'summer' means where it's going smile d

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My ex-160V had radial mounting lugs as part of the crankcase, but you could get an accessory 30mm deep radial mount giving a larger PCD and more mounting area. Take a look at the photo at the top of the previous page and you can see the mount bolted on the rear of the crankcase.

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  • 2 weeks later...

With regard to running twin engines what's the typical (acceptable) difference between engines at various RPM's?

I am not obsessed at this stage, but just noticed today that at some RPM one was faster by 500 and then slower by 500 further up the RPM range (didn't hold it flat out as still taking it gentle at this stage).

It might get a bit closer once I have tweaked the bottom tick over throttle settings later on.

PS...they do sound nice wink

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+/- 100 is fine. 500 is excessive though and could be down to linkage geometry or tuning. I would suggest you ignore the slow run needles for now, set the main needles for max rpm and then see how the top 2/3 of the throttle range are as this is where you will be most of the time when flying.

When I tested the engines they were near as makes no difference identical at idle, full and half throttle so double check those linkages and adjust if you need to

I forgot to mention, when tuning a twin for full throttle I recommend you set up each engine on its own, then start both and get up to full power. Run full power for AT LEAST 20 seconds and see if the slow engine can be leaned out further. Invariably the engines will need a slightly leaner mix when hot so make sure you get the engines up to full operating temperature before you finalise the tuning.

Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 16/04/2018 20:48:00

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