Gary Manuel Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 I've never purchased a brand new quality steel rule, but I own a few that I have acquired over the years - some are probably older than me. As time goes by, they all seem to get stains on them - always around the area you need to read. I'm pretty sure that most of the marks are cyano, epoxy or other modelling related chemicals. Some of it might be rust though. I have always respected them as delicate engineering instruments and resisted the urge to declare chemical warfare on them for fear of wiping the markings away. Any suggestions on cleaning and preserving them, that will not remove the delicate engraved lines, which appear to have some high contrast paint in them? Here's an example of what I'm talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 I would hit it with a big hammer, then go to Wickes n buy a new Aluminium one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 They sell quality big hammers also at Wickes along with quality rulers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 I have a treasured 150mm/6" steel rule which has black markings on a grey anodised background. It frequently gets misplaced if I'm not careful (it slides under whatever I have on the bench) so I regularly replace it on the nail where it hangs even during jobs. My other steel rules are very difficult to read these days even with a magnifier almost permanently attached to my head. My 150mm rule also has the advantage that it's metric on both edges on one side and rarely used imperial on the other. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 Geoff. We must have identical tool chests (and eyesight). My 150mm steel rule is the easiest one to read but is not much use for measuring 164.5mm as per the example above. The other side of the 300mm rule in the photo is graduated in 0.5mm steps, which I've got no chance of reading in its current state. I used to be able to guestimate to 1/4 mm or less Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 P.S Useful (useless) bit of info. The difference between a rule and a ruler is that zero on a rule is the end edge. On a ruler, it's some distance from the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan W Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 Maybe try one of these: **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Posted by Jonathan W on 16/06/2018 23:51:28: Maybe try one of these: **LINK** Website text was too small for me to read. Did it tell me how to clean my steel rules? Edited By Gary Manuel on 17/06/2018 00:09:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Beavis Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 The main mark appears to be corrosion. Since this very nice rule is so deeply engraved, you can afford to use a medium carborundum stone on it to remove the marks. Don't use emery cloth, as it will tend to fall into the engraved lines and make them less distinct. And when all is bright, just don't let it get rusty! I have some old rules which were so dull they were hard to read. Wiping them over with white paint to fill the lines was a complete cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Thanks Joe. Are the oil stones used for sharpening chisels etc any good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Lane Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 The best way to clean your rule is with some WD40 and a fine Garryson Garryflex rubbing block. That way, you don't rub away the paint in the marked increments, just the surface rust, ect. They cost about £6 from Ebay, but they last for years and they're a very handy addition to your tool kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Gary.....go and treat yourself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Much prefer the anodised rules/rulers myself, much easier to read, shiney surface ones catch the light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan W Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Posted by Gary Manuel on 17/06/2018 00:05:44: Posted by Jonathan W on 16/06/2018 23:51:28: Maybe try one of these: **LINK** Website text was too small for me to read. Did it tell me how to clean my steel rules? Edited By Gary Manuel on 17/06/2018 00:09:44 If you can't read the web page, no wonder you can't read your rule marks either! Try CTRL + to zoom the web page. It's a suggestion to buy a rule with white marks on a black background. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Posted by Jonathan W on 17/06/2018 10:04:04: Posted by Gary Manuel on 17/06/2018 00:05:44: Posted by Jonathan W on 16/06/2018 23:51:28: Maybe try one of these: **LINK** Website text was too small for me to read. Did it tell me how to clean my steel rules? Edited By Gary Manuel on 17/06/2018 00:09:44 If you can't read the web page, no wonder you can't read your rule marks either! Try CTRL + to zoom the web page. It's a suggestion to buy a rule with white marks on a black background. It's a white stick he needs, man can't see a 30ft Oak tree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Posted by Jonathan W on 17/06/2018 10:04:04: Posted by Gary Manuel on 17/06/2018 00:05:44: Posted by Jonathan W on 16/06/2018 23:51:28: Maybe try one of these: **LINK** Website text was too small for me to read. Did it tell me how to clean my steel rules? Edited By Gary Manuel on 17/06/2018 00:09:44 If you can't read the web page, no wonder you can't read your rule marks either! Try CTRL + to zoom the web page. It's a suggestion to buy a rule with white marks on a black background. Apologies Jonathan - my sarcasm caught you out there. I know I could just buy more rules, but being a Yorkshireman, I get a great deal of satisfaction from keeping old things working. I just want to clean up my old ones. Joe and Luke are on my wavelength. Thanks fellas - I'll look into those suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 That's cleaned it up a bit. I used a carborundum oil stone but not overdone it. I'll try to get some paint rubbed into the lines later to improve the contrast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 I suppose we need several rules of various lengths and some old ones to use as a straightedge when running a knife along. But for odd measurements sometimes a depth gauge might be easier than trying to read a ruler - so a depth gauge with locking screw to keep the 'measurement' without actually knowing the exact figure. Then it's done by feel and the matching part is made to fit. There is an old Moore & Wright model of graduated depth gauge now widely available as cheap but good copies for about 3 or 4 pounds. The M&W 43M is 24 pounds! Much the same method can use dividers or non-digital verniers - even the plastic ones work well enough for balsa work and being plastic they don't rust in a damp workshop. A depth gauge and levelling parts by feel is easier on the eyes! Edited By kc on 17/06/2018 17:12:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 I'm lucky enough to have a Rabone Chesterman 3 feet straight edge which I use for cutting and drawing straight lines. My digital vernier has a depth gauge, which I regularly use - but it doesn't go beyond 153.88mm. Edited By Gary Manuel on 17/06/2018 17:27:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Well Proops sell a 12 inch version of the traditional depth gauge for 6.70 pounds which might be handy for aeromodelling. Or a 6 inch version for just 3.30 pounds including post and freepost no quibble return. Edited By kc on 17/06/2018 17:34:17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Posted by Gary Manuel on 17/06/2018 17:21:44: I'm lucky enough to have a Rabone Chesterman 3 feet straight edge which I use for cutting and drawing straight lines. My digital vernier has a depth gauge, which I regularly use - but it doesn't go beyond 153.88mm. Edited By Gary Manuel on 17/06/2018 17:27:44 Have a a look at this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 I bought one of these ages ago....wouldn’t be without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Lots of useful tools out there. I could use all of the ones above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 I'm lucky enough to have a pile of 1 metre fence posts for straight edges. Double up as straight weights to hold wing skins down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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