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workbench design?


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having been working on an old dressing table that was really too small to be used as a workbench I have decided to attempt to build my own. I am looking for some pointers about the design

something simple is all I need and the design above would be relatively easy to build but I have one major concern.

the lower shelf adds rigidity and strength as well as providing a handy storage space but will it make it uncomfortable to sit at the bench with a chair. Do I need a chair or is it better to make a bench for working on standing

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I'd recommend making the bench at a comfortable height to work standing, then buy a stool you can perch on if you wish. More important than the bench itself though, is where you are going to put it. Having access to both sides is a big help when building something that's pinned down. If you can't do that then make sure you use a building board on top of the bench that can be swivelled round to work on the far side of the project.

Trevor

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Obtained my worktop from a kitchen supplier, offcuts usually available various widths/lengths/thickness normally very flat an distortion free, smooth finishes available and easily cleaned. Fixed on top of a set of ikea draws for storage space one end and supported at other end by fixed trestle . Gives knee space or storage underneath.

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I got one of these from fleabay:

**LINK**

5' workbench for £80 delivered - remarkable value and very solid, my building boards rest on top to be moved around as necessary. Other sizes are available. Definitely recommended. Unless you already have the materials to hand, I doubt you could buy the bits to make it yourself for these prices! I've added power distribution panels on the two front verticals.

Simon

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Thanks for the quick replys

Posted by Trevor on 12/11/2018 10:36:46:

I'd recommend making the bench at a comfortable height to work standing, then buy a stool you can perch on if you wish. More important than the bench itself though, is where you are going to put it. Having access to both sides is a big help when building something that's pinned down. If you can't do that then make sure you use a building board on top of the bench that can be swivelled round to work on the far side of the project.

Trevor

Trevor I think you are right about standing height. Thinking about my old setup although I sat at the desk I did normally stand to place any part of the model.

the ebay option does look good and it will be cheaper than building it myself from scratch. but I though a self build would be a fun project and be more satisfying. Also I can make it to suit my needs such as leaving the top overhanging at the front to allow me to attach my clam on vice.

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I prefer to work standing, so I don't mind having drawers or similar beneath the bench.

I've also made a torsion box type board which sits on top of some old kitchen units I'm using. It's quite flat to start with, but can easily be shimmed off the unit (with bits of card) to true up its flatness. Pop some plasterboard on that and I'm cooking on gas.

I've always used a workmate type affair to do the odd bit of vicework, although I'd be the first to admit it is woefully inadequate at anything beyond light use.

One day I'll have a nice shed with a proper solid bench or two.

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The benches we had at work were 36" high and that meant we could either stand or sit on high stools which had a back rest. The reason I know they were 36" high is that I have half of one in my workshop! Very strongly built with 3 sturdy drawers at one end. Sadly, as our work became more desk based design without much of the fun of breadboarding and practical experiments a lot of the benches were removed and I managed to acquire mine. It's a sort of memento

I do generallly find it easier to sit for most of what I do and I have an office chair with castors which has adjustable height so I can either have it high to work on the bench or a bit lower for my desk.

My building board sits on a pair of plastic trestles so I can get round it if needed.

Geoff

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I'm a fan of standing at the building bench and of being able to access all sides. I'm fortunate that I have a fairly large workshop space so have the standing bench in the middle but other lower ones along the sides that I can sit at for fine work, soldering, etc.

The main bench is homemade using a surplus length of kitchen worktop. It's about 7ft long and 1 metre high (sorry about mixed units!) and I find that height perfect for me - I'm 5' 10". I also have an industrial rubber anti-fatigue mat to stand on and this makes a huge difference to all-day building sessions.

A couple of pictures below from when I first set up the workshop a few years ago - it's much less tidy now.

workshop 004.jpg

workshop 005.jpg

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Here is information on the design of a work bench.
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/tablefig.htm

It is from the Experimental Aviation web site as a work bench is often the first thing one builds before building a plane. You can adjust the length and width to suit your requirements. I suggest adding a lip on the front of the top working area.

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I think it is very much a matter of personal taste & space available - the Fleabay table work referred to above does look a bargain!

Personally I like to both stand and sit whilst building as Arthritis and Rheumatism take their hold. My main work table is an old dining room table that I got for free and it is the best I have had...perhaps a trip to a second hand furniture store may yield something suitable at a good price?

img_2040.jpg

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The top needs to overhang the lower shelf a little to allow feet to be accomodated when seated or standing. Bracing the back with a sheet of MDF etc will stop it ' racking' and also stop stuff disappearing down the back.

Order The Workbench Book by Scott Landis from your library or buy if you can afford it to get ideas.

Mortice and tenon joints are really the thing for benches but dowelled joints are nearly as good and much easier to make. Consider making the legs as two frames built onto plywood or MDF and screwed and glued and finally drilled for dowels. Keeps it all square.

Edited By kc on 12/11/2018 19:40:53

Edited By kc on 12/11/2018 19:49:38

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I am going to suggest an INDOOR/OUTDOOR workshop for those unable to have the magnificent heated (?) workshops shown here. Basically a carpenters bench with carpenters vice inset and placed in whatever shed or garage you have. That is the outdoor bit.

Then a Workmate type bench fitted with a selection of tops to suit each aspect of aircraft building = wing board, fuselage jig, cutting board, assembly board. That is the indoor bit in the cold winter months and is set up in whatever spare room or space you have in the house.

Workmate also has a board on the lower supports to take a heavy toolbox or flightbox to stabilise and contain tools.  Each board has a batten underneath which is gripped by the Workmate jaws and easily put in or taken out and put away. Most used is a 30 inch by 20 inch rectangle with a Formica ( melamine ) surface for general stuff. Likely to be used a lot in summer too in the shed or even outdoors.   A few plastic 'selection' boxes are used to contain most used parts like screws, horns etc and transferred from indoors to outdooors as needed.

Procedure is - dirty , dusty stuff done outdoors - while most balsa work and fiddly stuff is done indoors in winter.

Edited By kc on 12/11/2018 20:17:11

Edited By kc on 12/11/2018 20:18:09

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  • 2 weeks later...

I made two workbenches myself, each 1600mm x 500mm but different methods of construction.

One was made from oversized timber that I had at hand and held together by PVA and pocket joints. Top and lower shelf were 18mm particle board. This resulted in a very strong structure to which I fitted lockable wheel castors so I can shift it about the workshop and use it outdoors - it get's used for wordworking projetcs etc. and to mount a chop saw.

The other was made from 4" x 2" timber, screwed and glued together in the conventional way, top and shelf as per the other one, a bit like the picture in your first post. On both benches I inset the lower shelf to give me "shin room" and use it both standing up or sitting on a bar stool. I have them arranged in an L formation so I have a 2 metre length working area - most likely the largest wing panel I'd be likely to work on.

Can be seen here:

workshop.jpg

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I built some benches using Vance Mosher's design published on the RCScaleBuilder site: https://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9629&PN=4

I think you need to register & log in to view the forums.

I built them in a home made shed and they are rock solid. They don't move if I sit on the edge (not that I do this very often wink). Used flooring chipboard for the top, CLS studding timber for the top frames & 45mm x 20mm for the diagonal braces. All screwed together. In the same situation I would do the same again.

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I used a budget 600mm kitchen drawer base unit as the support for my bench. It is topped with 18mm MDF and has 'wings' at both ends mounted on heavy-duty folding brackets (quite cheap from Wickes). It's stiffened up with some 2x4 in the base and has two casters at the rear and folding handles at the front to assist moving it around. An old server power supply rail is screwed on the back to provide power to the island. My building board (a slab of kitchen work surface topped with Sundeala) sits on the top and is itself covered with three A2 cutting mats, which fit nicely. The drawer is really handy as it means all my regularly used hand tools are stored right in front of me. I'll post pics if anyone is interested.

I wanted to incorporate a height adjustable work surface, but was unable to find any hardware suitable for the job. Frustratingly, the 'how to' part of Joe Marrone's bench doesn't seem to be available...

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I can recommend these f:0">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WestWood-Steel-Garage-Tool-Box-Work-Bench-Storage-Pegboard-Shelf-DIY-Workshop/121162380120?hash=item1c35d73358:m:mrIDUXXuX5FS4UWpKUduzpg:rk:13f:0

Very sturdy and the drawer is large and of a useful size for odds and ends.. I just added some extra cross brace support under the work surfaces to keep them dead flat. A light could easily be fixed under the top shelf. My building board and jig fit nicely. Had it over a year now - no probs.

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Posted by Cuban8 on 27/11/2018 12:33:58:

I can recommend these f:0

Very sturdy and the drawer is large and of a useful size for odds and ends.. I just added some extra cross brace support under the work surfaces to keep them dead flat. A light could easily be fixed under the top shelf. My building board and jig fit nicely. Had it over a year now - no probs.

I had spotted those but I wonder about the quality. Could you please tell me the height of the work surface from the floor

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