McG 6969 Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 Hija Dirk, What grammage of glass cloth are you going to use for the fuse/wing of your model? My plan was to use 25g/m².but I stand to be corrected of course. Your test cloth looks 'heavier' on the picture, but maybe they were just off-cuts from the canopy? Can you bring a bit of light, please... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 HI Chris , 25gr is fine especially for the rear part of the plane. 50gr is still ok but wouldn't use it ,just for Weight reasons. On the test pieces i used 100gr because i was working with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 Posted by dirk tinck on 05/03/2020 23:08:31: No progress on the interior , still missing the seat ... Seat production unit has been flat out with three printers, they're now on their way to Belgiumland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 Thanks Andy ,didn't mean to rush you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 Dirk, My order from Andy has arrived - it was worth waiting for! Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 Hi guy's cleaned up the glassing of the test gunport and to my surprise it worked out very well !I had doubts that the epoxy would be hard to sand where the glass stops.With a little primer on top they seem indeed smaller ! With enough time left i took a shot at the glassing of the bottomside of the wing.I prepared 30gr epoxy and cut the fabric oversized. I allways place the glasscloth on a dry covering surface and once positioned secure it with dots of resin brushed on.I then continu dividing it with a spunge roll.Do not roll in one direction because you will pull the fabric away,instead roll back and forth until the resin has ''filled'' the cloth.Don't try to cover the 90° angled sides , like the inside of the aileron cove.This just needs a coat of resin. Wrinkels in the fabric can be rolled out by rolling in one direction,pulling the fabric to the edges.Leading edges are best done with the roll perpendicular with the wing. Everything past the centerline will be cut or sanded away.The same for the wing- tips. All these tips are based on experiance and i'm sure there are other way's to do this job,it's just my opinion on the matter...Take your time for this,it can ''make or brake''your model Last tip :Use slow curing epoxy ,it gives you more time !(like 1hour drying time) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 Hi Dirk, The gun port does look really great. Your glassing tips will indeed be very useful for a lot of us. While you are at glassing - and while patiently waiting for your cockpit seat - don't forget to glass a little test-piece to try out Fred's Secret Sauce... Remember our meeting in Wavre > 'Bella Ballerina, blz 43'... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 Yep - those glassed and primed gun ports look amazing! Really impressive. Also really impressed that you have hit the glassing stage with 3 months still to run! Excellent work Dirk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 9, 2020 Author Share Posted March 9, 2020 And the glassing goes on... 2nd aileron sides ,rudder and elevators Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 Dirk can I ask a question - did you shape the L/E of your ailerons to a half round section or did you go for an angled chamfer? I'm never sure which to do on jets. I guess the half round better suits the small knuckle hinges you've used, which I am also using here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 10, 2020 Author Share Posted March 10, 2020 I have rounded leading edges on the ailerons Phil,easyer for glassing and better for the robart hinges ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 ... well Dirk, I just had a big grin /smile when I read your "easier for glassing" note to Phil. ... you really need it to be easier to produce glassed parts with your experience and skills, hé... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 10, 2020 Author Share Posted March 10, 2020 There's nothing wrong with taking the easy way home Chris! Just a little detail on glassing parts Positioning the fabric on a dry surface and securing it with resin Roll the resin out ,don't be economical with it,the roll wil absorb most of it Get the wrinkels out by rolling to the edge. Take the part in your hands and roll the edges,using enough resin,you need to roll it into the wood! When dryed overnight ,sand the loose fabric away and brush-on some resin on angled sides and places where there's no fabric like aileron tips,hinge slots etc...Use enough resin and go over it with a rol ,done Hope this helps the ones who never did it....glassing i mean !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 Hi again , With everything glassed ,well everything but the fuse anyway,i did a little work on the interior. I received the seat also from Andy so let's finish the saloon !! Anyone who's installing a pilot will find that the jockey needs surgerie on his legs ...Mine did anyway ... In the back of the seat i placed two U-shaped sliders (ABS)to guide the seat out... The ply sliding plate is glued to the eject installation and gets supported by a ply triangle.When everything is complete and working i will try to lose as much material as possible to get the weight down. On the red servo-horn comes a pushrod right trough the spring loaded seat (bottom )to prevent the seat being ejected.On the opposit horn (out of sight)comes the pushrod who releases the canope via the epoxy hinge(hook) x Installed in the fuse it looks like this: With the seat in place: x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 The area behind the seat will be closed by the canope base and contain the parashute.Once the canope is thrown-off ,the shute will hopefully be pulled out by the seat !! Remember ,this is just a try-out ,and when it gives too much problems it stay's on the shelf. Untill then i'll keep on trying ! Stay tuned ! This could be a'' premiere'' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 That looks great Dirk! The layer lines can be sanded away on the seat with some coarse grit paper, if required. The pilot looks a great fir for the seat though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Excellent idea Dirk. I'm sure there'll be plenty of SAR volunteers to pick up the pilot! I did try to release a secret agent parachutist from my Vulcan bomb bay but even though he jumped from quite a distance from the slope face, due to the slope lift he cleared us at quite a good height and made his way off to invade the pier on the other side of the Orme! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 Thanks Chris ! It's not operational yet but i'm getting there ! I just have to find a way to compensate the loss of weight when canope and seat are ejected.I have an idea but that means ,again,a little weight increase... Like you said : decisions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 ... well Dirk, You're playing with springs, ply and bits of white nylon while I'm suffering here with the Dog... Well done, young man. There must be a technician hidden somewhere inside you. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 More work on the bang seat : I made a little reinforcement in aluminium to take away the stress between the ground plate and the sliding plate In it's place it looks like this :Just needs a little rivet to hold on to the sliding plate reinforcement triangle The canope base ends just behind the seat ,so there's some room for some furniture The hole at the rear is the housing for the spring who blows away the canope once the hook has released it,i hope...At the far end you can see a carbon dowel glued in to keep the canope in the right position. Under this base is the room for the shute.You can see here (at the far end)the hole that houses the carbon dowel.Left of it is the canope release hook operated by the servo. The little round piece on the battery box holds the seat-spring in the right place,under the right angle(oblique)At the bottom you can see the servo -operated pin that holds the seat(now withdrawn) The last work in the cockpit area is to put in some side panels,left side with a throttle. x Blank on the right side.These will get a decal with some nobs and things... Please ignore the last pic in this post,could not delete it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 Next thing is to glass the fuse after a good sand! Until then ,keep it safe guy's,so we can all go flying soon !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Be careful of all that dust ............ AhhhChue. Or you may have to self quarantine. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 ...brilliant piece of technique, Dirk. When do you plan to have an 'ejection' maiden? Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 Hi Chris,at the first eject test , the seat reached a hight of 1 meter !!(without the parashute ) Today i started to sand the fuse and noticed i forgot the tail lights, so i drilled some holes right trough the balsa tail end block to guide the wires.The leds will be glued in after painting x x x x x x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 Great work as always Dirk - your model has so much detail and intricacy throughout - both internally and externally! Really impressive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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