What's your favourite way of attaching a canopy?

[Adrian Smith 1]

For the first time in a while I have project that requires attaching a large canopy to the fuselage. In the past I have had limited success using Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue and wondered if anybody has any better/more successful ideas?

Thanks

[Martian]

I have used canopy glue  sparingly but had to hold in place with tape etc my favoured way is with 1mm screws

Edited By Martian on 20/09/2019 15:38:21

[Denis Watkins]

Like Martian, I use micro screws, into 1/32 ply,

Pre drilled, and hidden under the window frames, bonded into the balsa

[Adrian Smith 1]

Thanks Denis, Martian makes a lot of sense.

[Don Fry]

A variation on Denis, I drill everything into the balsa, attach it, and when Happy, remove the lot. Wick thin cyano into the holes to harden them, and reassemble at leasure.

[Bob Cotsford]

Canopy glue, then a 1/2" wide strip of trim film carefully ironed over the join with a coolish iron or for a painted model an additional fillet of canopy glue around the edge. If the canopy has a flange that sits flat to the fuselage then I have on occasion used screws in the same way as Don.

I do like Denis's idea for canopies that don't sit flush though, I may have to pinch that one. I could have used it on my Lavochkin but that is securely attached with canopy glue now.

[Paul Marsh]

Canopy glue then screws.

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Robin Etherton]

Now you’re getting ridiculous.

At least 7 inch are required

[Ronaldo]

Nah, ... 12mm cavity wall bolts, can't pull out then

[robert chamberlain]

guys--, I have had limited success with the 560 stuff. Just for looks I cut down brass brads and added a few . If you drill a hole the same size as the brads it usually splits the canopy. Years ago I bought an attachment for my Dremel which cleanly sliced a grove down each side so the canopy fits flush but sadly have not seen the ad for years now. BTW, several years ago I posted an idea about dying the canopy. I used RIT cloth dye . Warm water in a tub and soak it for awhile. Oddly it has only worked on one kind of plastic and not on others. CA glue out gasses and messes up the plastic.------------------------Bob

[Rich too]

+1 small screws

i could never get on with canopy glue and screws look so much better anyway...

[Adrian Smith 1]

I have had the canopy spitting issue with small screws, Robert. However, that was in my I/C days and I have noticed with electric models there is much less vibration and probably should be less of a problem.

Rich, I think I will try small screws with some very small grommets I have to lessen the "splitting" factor. May be canopy glue plus screws although that sounds like overkill!

[Chili Pants]

I have used this to great effect, apply glue and hold canopy in place with tape until set, it is used by jewelers to affix jewels in watches etc, drys crystal clear as well and any excess is easily cleaned away, although with the applicator its hard to make a mess.

Got mine £2.99 on the bay, you cant go wrong with this stuff.

[Josip Vrandecic -Mes]

When it comes to balsa/wood models, it's easy to mount any canopys, but that doesn't apply to foam construction .... every glue is a problem ... and then I use the least evil ... UHU por.

[Ronaldo]

I'm not a big fan of canopy glue, but it has worked for me. First I lightly key the gluing area with fine sandpaper, both painted and film covered surfaces, then apply the canopy glue, hold down the canopy with masking tape, then here's the important bit ... leave the glued canopy undisturbed for 48 hours. Takes a while to fully set I know, but works for me.

[ken anderson.]

hello Adrian, consider using aquarium silicone,sml tube from local tropical fishshop aprox £5....small bead around the base of the canopy, keep in place with masking tape,leave overnight and trim any surplus off nxt morning...it'll stay on for ever... I've used the same method for years.

ken anderson....ne...1...aquarium dept.

[Adrian Smith 1]

That's an interest suggestion, Ken. Thanks.

I think in the past Ronaldo, I have been too impatient or the workshop too cold.

Another good one Chilipants!

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 21/09/2019 13:01:10

[ASH.]

Hello Adrian, a quality clear silicon as Ken suggests, secured when dry with a few screws - works very well.

PS. Adrian, I sent the twin SH Glow unit to the chap in Australia, He is well chuffed.

[Mark Stevens 1]

Don't think I've seen this mentioned yet but, has anyone ever tried hot glue for attaching canopies ?

It seems to stick to pretty much everything else in RC Models, especially being used on some stronger jobs and it certainly won't fog up clear screens. The big plus is that it sets fairly quick and can always be peeled off and re-applied later if need be.

I have a small hobby / craft size hot glue gun which will give a nice fine application of glue and have been considering using it to mount windscreens on a model. I just haven't got to that stage yet.

Mark

 

 

Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 04/10/2019 05:12:08

[Bob Cotsford]

Interesting idea Mark but I'd really advise trying it on a bit of scrap canopy material first to see how much heat distortion you get. Even a covering iron on a low setting used to attach trim strips around a canopy needs a very gentle touch and lingering on one spot is an absolute no-no or the canopy material will sag under the iron so I suspect using a hot glue gun would need a good deal of care.

[Engine Doctor]

Zap-A-Dab-a-Goo form zap glues is good if you can still get hold of it . I bought a few large tubes some years ago when it was getting scarce .

Just checked on the net and its still available but seems to be priced parallel to the gold standard !. Alternatives are Goop or Shoe Goo

Put a bead on and hold in place with tape . Very strong .