RICHARD WILLS Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 So the shopping list is , Cheap aIrbrush £10 , Car tyre pump £10 two car tyre valves (internet ) one foot pump style adapter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 Because you are spraying at low pressure and with tiny quantities of paint , you can spray details like exhaust stains and weathering in doors , especially if you just use watered down B and Q touch up paints like I do . They dont smell . Even my Misses doesnt moan about it or hit me with anything . Listen chaps , give it a go . you can practice on card first and I promise you it is very gentle and east to do . For £20 plus a few connectors , you can have a lot of fun . (Ron , thanks for the link ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 The two tubeless tyre valves can be obtained at "Racing Planet " for £1.79 each and the Car foot pump connector is about £2 on line. so none of it is expensive . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Davies 3 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Nice work Richard. I knew I'd seen you before somewhere. You were on Blue Peter. I'm sure you knocked up a full size working Millennium falcon out of cereal boxes and sticky backed plastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 think along the line of "Stig of the dump " 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glynn Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 For many years Richard has lived under the threat of being burned as a Witch, they say George Lucas modelled "The Force" on his Un-natural skills how else can we explain that one of his work force is GREEN. Stig of the dump he's not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 (edited) I did try to reply to your post Pauls but it must have disappeared into the ether. My question was how do you do the panel lines on the fuz? have tried elastic band but is difficult getting the bands to remain parallel.Is there an easier way? ps Like your choice of footwear. Shear CLASS Edited February 17, 2021 by Graham R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 23 hours ago, RICHARD WILLS said: I'll nip in with my Zero at this point . being as its turned into a show and tell . More silver pen , plus black and white pen and finally a bit of white and black chalk . Richard!!! Is this a foamie in our midst? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Graham when I do plastic models I use dynamo tape not sure if it translates to the bigger scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 I used the opportunity to make the excuse to myself that I need a full on airbrushing set up. So I blew a load of cash on it. The cash was a windfall from a broker-gone-bust loss I thought I'd never recoup, so I'm ending up evens. The set will arrive tomorrow or Friday. Hopefully lots of use will justify its purchase... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 David, Enjoy your journey with the airbrush. Suggest you practice on some card 1st. What type of paints are you going to use? There will be lots of testing with air pressure, paint thinning, nozzle size etc. The main thing is to keep your airbrush clean. I used to use little brush cleaners, but they can scratch and damage very small nozzles and wear out very quickly. I have recently invested in a cheapish ultrasonic cleaner. It makes the job of cleaning so much easier. what size nozzle comes with the brush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 8 hours ago, Graham R said: I did try to reply to your post Pauls but it must have disappeared into the ether. My question was how do you do the panel lines on the fuz? have tried elastic band but is difficult getting the bands to remain parallel.Is there an easier way? ps Like your choice of footwear. Shear CLASS Lines.... Well now there's a task! I use either card or strips of flexible plastic and a wonkey eye. I take a line drawing, scale the dimensions to fit our model, this does not have to be exactly perfect but gives something to give the illusions of the real thing, Mark in pencil lightly till I have what looks good then use the marker etc. Remember that the model is Not exact scale ( flap/aileron size) so use a little artistic license and move lines to look the part. That's why I use pencil first. Look for any lines that are full length or at least run most of the fuz to give a reference point to start from. Same with the wing. It is time consuming but the results are rewarding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 I bought some 10mm wide Velcro plant tie at Poundland abought 2 yr. ago it comes in a roll I wrap it round the fuselage and line it up carefully draw the line around then if doing invasion strips mark the next one and move the Velcro and mark the next line and so on then mask to the lines . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 My weapons of choice.. The white card is the template I made for the fuz lines at the trailing edge of the wing join. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Further to chalking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 8 hours ago, Graham R said: David, Enjoy your journey with the airbrush. Suggest you practice on some card 1st. What type of paints are you going to use? There will be lots of testing with air pressure, paint thinning, nozzle size etc. The main thing is to keep your airbrush clean. I used to use little brush cleaners, but they can scratch and damage very small nozzles and wear out very quickly. I have recently invested in a cheapish ultrasonic cleaner. It makes the job of cleaning so much easier. what size nozzle comes with the brush? I will watch lots of YouTube clips for tips on howto techniques etc and do lots of practising. I have actually purchased two brushes! Both Mr Hobby. One is the PS-289 with a 0.3mm nozzle - this will be my detail brush, also for plastic kits. The other is the PS-290 which has a 0.5mm nozzle, trigger action and comes with both fan cap and round cap. That will be my coverage brush - it's almost but not quite a spray gun. Paints wise I will likely try to find the cheapest option I can - screen wash and craft acrylic is an option as is match pots. I also recently purchased a revell 1:32 spitfire plastic kit to use as a reference for the wb spit I'm slowly building... That will be useful to practice on at a smaller scale once I've got the basics down... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 All, Just re-iterating the Flap question as I think it might have got lost in the Airbrush discussion. How and when do I remove the Flaps from the Ribs? Bit worried that I might have gone too far with the sheeting and missed an obvious step. thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil McCavity Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 A dressmakers tape might be useful for following curves and wrapping around fuselages for drawing lines, it can be tacked in place with masking tape and carefully followed as a straight edge. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 6 minutes ago, Jonathan S said: All, Just re-iterating the Flap question as I think it might have got lost in the Airbrush discussion. How and when do I remove the Flaps from the Ribs? Bit worried that I might have gone too far with the sheeting and missed an obvious step. thanks all You did mark through the top skin for your cut line? check my previously post on the order of marking and cutting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil McCavity Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 2 hours ago, David Hazell 1 said: I have actually purchased two brushes! Both Mr Hobby. One is the PS-289 with a 0.3mm nozzle - this will be my detail brush, also for plastic kits. The other is the PS-290 which has a 0.5mm nozzle, trigger action and comes with both fan cap and round cap. That will be my coverage brush - it's almost but not quite a spray gun. Paints wise I will likely try to find the cheapest option I can - screen wash and craft acrylic is an option as is match pots. You've bought some nice brushes there David, many people go for the cheap option which is fine if you're prepared to do some work on them but yours will be ready out of the box and are well made Japanese products. Once you start delving into the black art of airbrushing on YouTube you'll be on it for hours marvelling at the skill of some of the masters and in fairness, beginners too. It cannot be said often enough .....practice, practice, practice and experiment. Good luck and enjoy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Just now, Phil McCavity said: You've bought some nice brushes there David, many people go for the cheap option which is fine if you're prepared to do some work on them but yours will be ready out of the box and are well made Japanese products. Once you start delving into the black art of airbrushing on YouTube you'll be on it for hours marvelling at the skill of some of the masters and in fairness, beginners too. It cannot be said often enough .....practice, practice, practice and experiment. Good luck and enjoy. Thanks Phil, yes I think they're pretty much the same as the iwatas going at almost twice the price. Rumour has it that they are made in the same factory... The delivery van is one hour away and I'm very excited!!! I love nicely machined items. Similarly when I get a new set of brakes or derailleur - I spend a bit of time just enjoying the finesse of their manufacture!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 24 minutes ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: You did mark through the top skin for your cut line? check my previously post on the order of marking and cutting Paul, I think I have read it correctly might have just missed a step or an understanding. I have marked the flaps on the top with a pin in the location you indicated. Then drawn the lines etc. My concern is the flab ribs are attached to the wing ribs. I have not detached them yet. When I sheet the underside I will have measures the bottom cut line. Cutting the skins is fine(ish) but the wing ribs and flap ribs will still be joined. How is this linkage broken without damage to anything. Hope that makes my question a bit clearer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil McCavity Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 6 minutes ago, David Hazell 1 said: Thanks Phil, yes I think they're pretty much the same as the iwatas going at almost twice the price. Rumour has it that they are made in the same factory... Not sure they are as not all the parts are interchangeable but that doesn't detract from their quality at all, they are a match for H&S, Iwata and Badger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 44 minutes ago, Phil McCavity said: Not sure they are as not all the parts are interchangeable but that doesn't detract from their quality at all, they are a match for H&S, Iwata and Badger. Phil, I think your right they are meant to be similar I know a Proffessional model builder (Plastic) that uses them now as his airbrush of choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 (edited) Flap rib detail.pdf 1 hour ago, Jonathan S said: Paul, I think I have read it correctly might have just missed a step or an understanding. I have marked the flaps on the top with a pin in the location you indicated. Then drawn the lines etc. My concern is the flab ribs are attached to the wing ribs. I have not detached them yet. When I sheet the underside I will have measures the bottom cut line. Cutting the skins is fine(ish) but the wing ribs and flap ribs will still be joined. How is this linkage broken without damage to anything. Hope that makes my question a bit clearer... Jonathan. The only thing holding the end section of the ribs to the main ribs are the temporary stand offs. Once the have been removed after sheeting the top of the wing it's only the top skin holding them in place. Edited February 18, 2021 by Paul Johnson 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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