Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang

[Ron Gray]

@David - that is the other downside of lam film, the quantities that it is sold in! However, you can usually find others who will buy smaller quantities off you!

[David Hazell 1]

Posted by Ron Gray on 31/01/2021 18:01:45:

@David - that is the other downside of lam film, the quantities that it is sold in! However, you can usually find others who will buy smaller quantities off you!

YesI am going to be quite flush with it! Plenty to be practising with too I suppose. Placed an order, will practise on some scrap when it arrives.

[Eric Robson]

Has anyone used laminating film on an open structure under cambered wing? I have a DB Albatross to cover86" span and would almost need a bank loan to use Oratex Sorry about drifting off topic Richard.

[Ron Gray]

Use the same technique as normal covering film the one proviso I would make would be to use a lower heat setting.

[Phil McCavity]

Richard,

So the panel line is drawn with the black pen first then overdrawn with white or do you mean another line is drawn parallel with and touching the black line? Do you only do this on span wise panel lines?

[Eric Robson]

Thanks Ron, I will try that. At the moment it is in the loft I had it given it needs finishing and covering, it will be Laser powered, don't know if I will get to it this year.

[Paul Johnson 4]

Posted by Phil McCavity on 30/01/2021 12:49:33:

Richard, where is your article on weathering? I've looked on your site and clicked on the link but nothing appears, the Spitfire build does but the weathering lesson is gone!

Further to Richards Guide, although a different subject (Richards Yak Design), It captures the process.

First base colour applied

Next from a set of drawings on the web, the black lines are added.

Followed by parallel white lines, I used the same locations on each black line i.e. behind and towards the centre.

As you can see these are subtle but give the panel depth.

Next are added the black smudges, I used exactly Richards chalk method but felt more brave so used very thinned paint.

Next came some brown smudges to add a little more 'Dirty' to the panels.

These were repeated on the top surface, same process. White being used on dark surfaces.

Last was the use of a silvered pen. A piece of scotch bright/wire wool was also used to dab silvered foot damage to the walk ways.

See Guys as Richard said, it is easier than you think, go on give it a go.

[Graham Davies 3]

Thanks for sharing Paul.

I have a Yak kit that is next on the boards. I also have Richard's Yak in my garage as a 'motivational tool' (The Yak, not Richard...). I have to say, both his and your models look fantastic and these apparently simple ideas transform the whole model.

I am currently building a Cambrian Spitfire to practice these techniques on. I will share (in a separate thread) so we can all learn these skills together.

Graham

[Eric Robson]

That looks right Paul, I find with weathering it can look awful if over applied and would have been better without it. the main thing is to look at the real thing and copy that, it is difficult when doing warbirds as there are very few coloured pictures . When airbrushes became popular in the late 70's people were over doing it and it spoiled the effect .

[Ron Gray]

You said it Eric, very few original coloured photos. Therefore do whatever you like to suit yourself, it will be ‘right’. The old saying of ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder’ springs to mind. For me, when we’re talking warbirds, I like mine to look like they’ve been through several missions so look dirty and look like they’re dripping oil. In particular the underside should, IMO, be splattered with mud, grass and oil! So after doing panel lines etc I apply an overall colour wash (dark) applied with a rag going from front to back.

Edited By Ron Gray on 01/02/2021 11:20:15

[Paul Johnson 4]

I normally don't need to add the grass as I fly early and there is dew about,,,, it adds itself

[Nigel Dell]

Posted by Eric Robson on 31/01/2021 22:08:42:

Has anyone used laminating film on an open structure under cambered wing? I have a DB Albatross to cover86" span and would almost need a bank loan to use Oratex Sorry about drifting off topic Richard.

Eric

I have used lam film on under-cambered surfaces of freeflight models, what I have found works for me is to sponge on some thinned PVA I use 50/50 water and PVA but what you are looking for is it to dry with a thin film of glue on the structure, if you have spars that are flush with the surface is a little easier but to apply tack the film in the centre of the chord for the length of the panel and working from the centre of the panel out (both axis) gently maintaining tension, as Ron says reduce the iron temp so time spent testing this is well spent, I doped tissue over this finish and have not had one let go yet, also as yours is a larger model and I guess with cap strips you do have a good glue area for the film to hold onto, the models I did were 1/16” ribs.

for the likes of the fragile structure I was covering I made a simple jig/cradle to put the wing in to stop inadvertently warping the structure but I would think the larger, heavier structure should be less likely to suffer this unless you sit on it🥴

Lastly cover the undersides first.

hope that helps.

[Paul Johnson 4]

Grass effects oh natural..

[Paul Johnson 4]

Ron,

Like the oily effects around the cowl

[Paul Johnson 4]

Weathering here was even applied to the real thing Link 3rd picture down.

Edited By Paul Johnson 4 on 01/02/2021 11:41:32

[Ron Gray]

Paul, looks like your P51 has just reached puberty!

[Ron Gray]

Look closely at the 4th picture in the gallery!!!

[Eric Robson]

Some amazing weather and quick dry paint and I managed to paint the fuselage alloy wheel silver then get the white on for the invasion markings. The cowl and hatch were done indoors last night.

[Jonathan S]

I love the idea of using the pens. One other way of doing the weathering is to use oil paint. You can then use whit spirit to fade the dirt. Look at a few plastic model makers on you tube and how they do weathering. Might is a master. They use very similar techniques to Richard and Paul just on a smaller scale.

One other trick is to lighten the paint and thin it to 80% normal then spray the centre of the panels,

[Trevor]

With all this talk about finishes and finishing, I thought it was time I made a start. On the basis that opening the glue bottle marks the beginning of any build project, I decided to kick off by extending the aileron spars.

I’m trying to benefit from the discoveries of those who’ve gone before but, memory being what it is, stand by for some repeat queries over the coming weeks!

Trevor

[Jonathan S]

Trevor,

Welcome good to have another person building along.

Jon

[Eric Robson]

Waiting for the olive drab to arrive I started putting some panel lines on, masked the canopy and gave it a spray of some olive green I had , it is not the right shade but will do for an undercoat .

[gillyg1]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2457811227878150/permalink/2884060751919860/

This is what you want Richard !!

Hopefully it comes out ??

[Graham Davies 3]

Evening all,

As a disciple of WR and all things Wills, I have been building a Cambrian spitfire and using the opportunity to learn these finishing skills.

So, the spitfire is covered in laminating film and painted in emulsion paint. Edges soften with a big soft brush. I have then used the 'black/ white' technique Paul detailed above, and weathered with chalk. I have used a silver gel pen to add wear down to metal (need to work on that technique a little). I haven't finished yet, but i couldn't resist a picture thus far.

Hugely satisfying; don't know why I haven't tried this earlier.

Thanks Paul and Richard

Graham

[Paul Johnson 4]

Nice to see you having a go... doesn't take long to realise how easy it is and what a difference it makes.