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Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang


RICHARD WILLS

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All,

So spent some time on the bench this evening, well most of it reading and reading pages 27 -> of this blog...

I have managed to fix one of the Dihedral braces on in prep for R1. Next question... So looking at the next bit i will fit with R1 is the Bolt plate. How do I workout where and what size hole to drill in it?

I am assuming that the plastic bolts go through this and attach to the fusilage with the blindnuts. I remember someone on the spitfire builds sharpening them to make a mark as to where to put the blind nuts.(I am assuming a similar thing will need to be done here.

RIchard - fantastic weathering by the way. looks very effective.

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Jonathan, I have been looking at Paul's build and noticed the wing plate has the holes etched in. The production kits don't, so glue the plates in and drill them later when you line the wing up to the fuselage. A further tip when you come to fit the plate in the fuselage that has the captive nuts on fit them to the plate before gluing it in.

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Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 26/01/2021 11:10:50:
Posted by Nigel Dell on 26/01/2021 11:08:16:
Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 26/01/2021 11:03:58:

Oooohh Nigel that was below the belt.....

Paul, you can always stick pins in it! 🤪😂

Always liked Voodoo, have seen it race a few times. The noise!😈

Now to see it it's no longer 19** that's nice

I must admit I liked the final incarnation of Voodoo, can still be seen flying at Chino, it’s now home is Planes of Fame museum, they give it an airing on their air show days.

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Guys,

The question of drilling the holes for the dowels don't forget to allow for the thin ply of the fuselage root fairing.

lay a couple of bits of that ply between the wing and fuselage when marking the holes to drill.

A trick I used prior to this build, (109) to make sure I got the holes right was this..

A thin bit of plasticine on the leading edge to show where the hole/holes are. Then using a pin push through to mark the leading edge centre.

20180116_180114.jpg

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Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 26/01/2021 11:09:32:

Now with a sky full of things that shoot back last thing a pilot in 40-45 would want is stand out...

I'm sorry guys shiny is just wrong...... just wrongcheeky

It did not worry the Red Baron about standing out and there was some colourful P51's with shiny aluminium finishes.

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All,

I have been thinking (should have had the clear dope first). If you don't cut a hole in the spar like Paul did in his posts how do you route the retract wire ?

I cannot see a logic route for it to get to the reciever it will always be forward of the wing spar. I must be missing something but cannot see what ....

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I think we may be making a simple job way too complicated here .

The fuselage interior width is 4" . That means that the first two inches of the upper wing skin are concealed when the fuselage and wing are connected .

The obvious answer is to run the retract wires through the wheel well bays and then make a nice neat round hole in the upper skin less than two inches from the centre line . You can simply hot glue the wires to the roof of the wheel bay and when painted they will look like a typical hydraulic line .

Keep it simple is the motto .

Edited By RICHARD WILLS on 27/01/2021 10:28:06

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As Richard said run it through the wheel well. I had a problem, I cut the skin according to the template and lined the hole prior to trying the retract (silly move) at the last position I could fasten the leg in the retract unit the wheel still fouled the edge. I had to elongate the hole on both wings which was a PIA . Once sanded it does not look too bad .dsc_0819[1618].jpg

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As noted in a previous photo the wheel was catching on the rim of the well. I have spoke to Richard about it and he recommends not cutting the circle till the retract is fitted. The best way would be to lay the template on the wing mark off the position for the unit and the straight cut out for the leg to about the centre of the well , cut this out and fit the unit with the leg then move the template about 5mm away from the centre line and check that the wheel has enough clearance , mark the circle and cut it out..dsc_0820[1625].jpg

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As noted in a previous photo the wheel was catching on the rim of the well. I have spoke to Richard about it and he recommends not cutting the circle till the retract is fitted. The best way would be to lay the template on the wing mark off the position for the unit and the straight cut out for the leg to about the centre of the well , cut this out and fit the unit with the leg then move the template about 5mm away from the centre line and check that the wheel has enough clearance , mark the circle and cut it out..dsc_0820[1625].jpg

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