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Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang


RICHARD WILLS

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Looks ideal Paul, I really should get round (no pun intended) to make a slide on tip for a soldering iron!

@ Trevor- that’s similar to my iron but I found that it was still applying point heat to the surface that’s why I now use a tube as it is a much more even spread of heat.

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Posted by Jonathan S on 04/01/2021 14:00:39:

Eric,

Sorry for asking for clarification but I am still not sure what I should do to fix the R6 not being in the right place.

My thoughts were to cut the rib here and attach the cut bit to the Aileron spars?r6.jpg

Okay Jonathan,

I had to check my version to your version to find out the changes.

Don't cut on that line but duplicate that end of the rib in balsa and glue it to the face of the rib toward the wing tip as an infill piece to support the aileron spars R6A then fits on the other side to the trailing edge only of the flap spar. The gap is to allow for cutting the flap from the aileron as if they are next to each other you will cut into R6 and R6A

This quick and dirty sketch I hope helps.

rib6 details.jpg

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hi jon, I don't know if you have started on the fuselage but you need the wing completed before the fuselage as the front of the wing has to be drilled for the dowels. I have marked R2 where it needs to be cut away for the flap actuator to get into position. This is done sooner rather than later, a fine razor saw is ideal or Dremel if you have a steady hand. The photo of the aileron rib assembly is as Pauls sketch.

Eric.dsc_0780[1503].jpginkeddsc_0784[1502]_li.jpg

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dsc_0798[1511].jpgJon, just another thing after sheeting the wing top take a piece of strong thread , tie it to a piece of scrap balsa and lead it from where the aileron servo goes to the centre of the wing. This will enable you to feed the servo lead and extension lead through the wing after it is fully sheeted. Tape the balsa scrap to the upper sheeting. I have pulled the other end into the top sheet in the centre which has to be cut away later on in the build.dsc_0796[1516].jpg

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Eric,

No I have not yet started the fuselage. The description You and Paul have given is excellent and something I am going to crack on with the wing. It was my wife's bday today so not been able to sneak off to the shed...

Quick question both you and Paul have highlighted the cotton method for future extension routing my question is why would you not just use servo extensions instead of cotton and it would be already in place?

Thanks again for your help and suffering my stupid questions,

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Eric,

No I have not yet started the fuselage. The description You and Paul have given is excellent and something I am going to crack on with the wing. It was my wife's bday today so not been able to sneak off to the shed...

Quick question both you and Paul have highlighted the cotton method for future extension routing my question is why would you not just use servo extensions instead of cotton and it would be already in place?

Thanks again for your help and suffering my stupid questions,

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Hi Jon, you can install the leads if you have them you would have to put the servo in also and secure it as the lead joins in side the wing. As the servo mount has to be made after the lower sheeting is in place you will have to pull it back out partially to fit it to the mount increasing the chance of pulling the lead back through with it . After the wing is sheeted and the leading edge and tips are glued on the wing will be turned over many times during shaping and sanding and the weight of the servo and leads may dislodge it . When you do join the servo to the extension make sure it is the right way around and the join is secure I wrap insulating tape around to hold the plug and socket together.

I do not know at this point what experience you have with R/C, have you passed the trainer stage? What type of model have you put together etc. It would help to know as some of the answers Paul and myself are giving are basic and it would help to have an insight to your experience to save over elaborating the reply.

We all want you to build this model successfully and will give you the support you need.

Cheers Eric.

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Thanks Eric for helping Jonathan,

Jonathan as Eric has said the servo extension leads tend to be more of a inconvenience than a piece of cotton/string.

Also I make up all my own leads to the length I require and until the model is almost ready for connecting up I cannot be sure of what length I may need them. I also use a single plug with multiple connections to join the wing/flap/gear and aileron servos to the receiver . These require soldering and would encompass cutting off the unwanted plugs which is a waste of materials.

The main thing about building a kit is that we all have our different ideas, trains of thought of how to achieve the same thing. No one way is correct. It is a very good exercise in puzzle solving and I find this a very rewarding part of our hobby.

I am sure we can help you achieve a good flying/looking P51 at the end of your build........ then you'll have the bug!

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Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 07/01/2021 10:38:17:

I am sure we can help you achieve a good flying/looking P51 at the end of your build........ then you'll have the bug!

Very true. But there will probably be a few points along the way when you swear that you’ll never do this again!

Trevor

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Posted by Trevor on 07/01/2021 10:49:30:
Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 07/01/2021 10:38:17:

I am sure we can help you achieve a good flying/looking P51 at the end of your build........ then you'll have the bug!

Very true. But there will probably be a few points along the way when you swear that you’ll never do this again!

Trevor

How true, I work on parts for the real things and you are sooooo close to the truth there..!!!

We have a derogatory term for some... we call them 'Hanger Monkeys' Once asked for a aircraft Aux generator to be cleaned up prior to inspection...... so the guy put it in a bucket of soapy water....!!!

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Eric,

I have been flying for about 4 years mostly foam: wot4 and acro wot. But I do have have a extreme flight extra which was an artf and a durafly spit.

Other than that I recently built vintage model stick and tissue plane.

So my build experience is low but I can fly (ish).

Kind regards

Jon

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We need new blood Jonathan , so dont worry about asking questions . The Mustang kit is a first production run , so will have a couple of niggles which will be ironed out on the next run .

But ultimately the kit , with all of its hundreds of joints goes together like a jigsaw puzzle .

So much of this hobby is about confidence . So consequently , if you give a newbie a shiny new kit , it is understandable ,that they want to get it just right .

With a small ,laser cut sport model , that is very achievable . But when you throw in flaps , retracts and the unforgiving profile of one of the most iconic aircraft ever made , well .....

Funny enough , the thing that builds confidence , is if another local modeller lets you have a wooden model that he has just broken . Since he sees it as junk , you do not approach it with any reverence . Consequently you will allow your natural ability to improvise, step into top gear .

The look on somebodies face when you repair a previously worthless model always boosts your ego .

Ask Eric ("The come back" kid ) .

He will agree with me , after piling our Spitfires into a concrete runway , we both immediately think

"I ve got half a Spitfire there . I'm well on my way to a new one ".wink 2

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Lol, Richard thanks for the encouragement, I am genuinely really enjoying building it.

After I have fixed a niggle or two and got my head around ways to do things and sheeted a wing the next one won't be daunting, as with everything new, your stuck between not wanting to make a pigs ear of it and seeing people who have done it 100 times do it effortlessly. smiley

Glad there are si many people willing to help makes it fun. Well off to see if I can find some balsa to make some rib ends.... wink

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Richard,

I finally got started my P51 on the 2nd January and I am most impressed with the quality of the kit and especially the wood grade and the excellent laser cutting. The clever design for construction makes it so easy to put together - it is superb! Well done!

Following Paul's build thread, I started with the fuselage and fortunately read the post telling that the wing needs to be completed first to drill the forward wing attachment! I have put the fuselage to one side and started the wing. Paul is to be congratulated for his thread as the additional information and tips avoid some likely pitfalls.

Really enjoying the build. Thanks. It makes the lockdown just about tolerable!

Any news on the availability of the sound system?

Gordon

b707ffac-3001-493d-a361-3d6953c14a34.jpeg

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Eric,

Good hint on the fuselage sides having some spare balsa. I have sketched it out and next week when the wife is away and kids in bed I will make some extra ribs and finish the left wing...

Is it best to sheet the first wing before moving to the second one? I am thinking if sheeted in a small shed its going to have less opportunity to be broken.

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Personally, I’d bring the second wing up to the same stage first - while you can still see (and remember!) the key points learned during the construction of the first one. If you do knock bits off the framework, they are easily glued back on and  the repair will be covered by the sheeting. Whereas if you drop a tool onto the beautifully sheeted wing. . . . .

Trevor

Edited By Trevor on 09/01/2021 10:38:36

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As Trevor said bring the second wing to the same stage not forgetting to leave the rear part between R1 and R2 un sheeted for access to the flap mechanism (see Paul's build). It is a good time to check that the wings fit together before sheeting the underside, there should be no problem but if there is this is the time to sort it out.

When I joined my wings I had the holes cut out for the wheel well but no vertical sheeting in place so I was able to clamp the centre ribs back and front to ensure a good joint.

Eric.

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