Eric Robson Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 For anyone wanting to use a single servo for the flaps this is how I set mine up. One of the plastic links that screw on to the bolt on the arm had no threads in so I had to use two small nuts one on top and one under. to allow adjustment. The block the 3 rods fit in came from a far eastern kit but as an alternative an electrical terminal could be used. Paul went for a servo for each flap so the choice is yours. Edited By Eric Robson on 10/01/2021 20:18:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Eric, I was wondering how it worked with the single servo so thanks for posting these pictures. Simple solution. I guess it is a standard size servo that you have used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Hi Gordon, yes it is a standard Futaba servo, it just fits in. You may notice the 1/8" pieces glued to R2 , these were put there to support the servo plate which is slightly short between the R2's and was only glued on the centre ribs. If you do this make sure the aileron servo leads are through before gluing the supports in. I have glued the servo in and have used scrap 1/4" balsa packing to keep it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Eric, thanks, I had not noticed the 1/8 inch supports for the servo rail. I have not got to that stage yet as just building the separate wing halves at the moment. Better to know in advance rather than learn the hard way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Progress to date. Decided that although the vacuum formed exhaust are of a high standard I twisted a friends arm into a bit of 3D printing. I also cut through to allow separation of the nose cowl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Love those stacks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 +1 for those stacks! Now, have you worked out how to get a puff of smoke out of them on start up? A small amount of flash powder linked to a switch on the TX? That would be fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 We electric flyers tend to get a bit spooked by puffs of smoke - particularly at start up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Hi Trevor, as someone who flies mostly electric (of the 10S variety) my comment was a bit tongue in cheek . However, some bright spark (!) might come up with a solution. Indeed, by putting LEDs in the stacks you might be able to simulate the exhaust flames like the jet boys simulate reheat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Last time I had smoke was due to a faulty ESC made smoke appear in 4 servos and one retract.... luckily it was on the ground as I plugged in the battery so i could disconnect it toot sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 My boy got a "fire breathing dragon" for Christmas from his grandad. I wonder if it's possible to get hold of the "steam" emitter - takes 5ml of water and then uses a little ultrasound thingy to produce the "smoke". LED behind it and it looks fab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Just a little tip. When shaping the block of balsa for the intake scoop I 0ffered it up to the former it buts up to and cut a piece of 1/4" square to fit in the former and glued it to the block. this was done before the bottom was sheeted. after sheeting I was able to hold the block firmly in place while blending it in to the fuselage. Regarding smoke. my Son bought a tuned brushed motor for a Ripmax Spitfire half way through the first flight there was a smoke trail that would do the Red Arrows proud. He managed to land it ok and found the motor had burnt out no other damage thankfully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Hi all, Looking for a bit of advice on servos for the P51. I have some MacGregor DS1203MG (2kg.cm) and DS1703MG (3kg.cm) mini servos spare but wondering if they are strong and fast enough for the job. I am thinking to use the more powerful ones on the elevator and rudder, with the other surfaces with the less powerful ones. I may use two servos on the flaps. Any advice welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Just over 3 weeks on and off and its ready for the fairings and final sanding. No real issues Gordon I can't comment on your servos as I am not familiar with them ,I would always use the most powerful on the ailerons and elevator. Unless you plan to do a lot of knife edging the rudder is used less than the ailerons. If you are planning to use a steerable tail wheel then a stronger one would be an advantage, mine are all 3kg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Eric looking amazing. For the servos would you recommend 3kg standard size servos. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Jonathan I have been using various servos in the past and have found a great many variations available. For anyone looking to choose a "suitable" one to fit the model, the decision is a minefield of technical jargon that dumbfounds most. Even the stated Kg rating is given by Kg per cm. This being the force the servo can exert per cm from the centre of the actual output arm. So the further towards the last hole on the arm the less there is torque available. Weight and size is also worth the consideration as a standard servo is a lot bigger and heavier than a mini or micro and yet the latter can produce just as much torque in some cases. Weight, is what decides how well your model will perform. For Richards models which all, except for the twins, are around 55" wingspan and fly very well at around 6lb. I have found too the 3kg/cm micro more than adequate. Just try not to use the outer last hole on the servo arm on the servo itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 One more thing Jonathan, the wing servo locations are designed for the mini or micro servos. a standard servo is too big for the location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Paul, Eric, Thank you very much for the clear advice on the servos. I will not use the 2kg.cm servos on this model as they are likely marginal. Good point about the weight being important as well for aircraft performance and handling aspect. I will have a think again about the flap actuation either a standard JR analogue servo or two mini servos. Eric, you have made impressive progress in 3 weeks to get to that stage! The model looks excellent. Looking forward to seeing what you guys do for the covering and finishing. Its a great help to be able to follow your experience! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 14/01/2021 07:29:17: Jonathan I have been using various servos in the past and have found a great many variations available. For anyone looking to choose a "suitable" one to fit the model, the decision is a minefield of technical jargon that dumbfounds most. Even the stated Kg rating is given by Kg per cm. This being the force the servo can exert per cm from the centre of the actual output arm. So the further towards the last hole on the arm the less there is torque available. Sorry to be picky Paul, torque is expressed in force x distance from the pivot hence kg.cm NOT kg per cm. Otherwise, the further out from the pivot the greater the force exerted. Kg.cm is the max torque the servo generates and so as cm increases then the force exerted decreases for servo. Edited By Peter Jenkins on 14/01/2021 12:15:22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Sivers Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Can anyone suggest a simple steerable rear wheel setup for this kit? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Retract or fixed tail wheel? Fixed is quite easy but retracts are a little more complex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Hi Ron, The simple way is not scale but the tail wheel can be attached to the rudder and move with it. On an earlier flying picture on this thread page 10 I think it is one of the prototypes with this set up. Eric r. Edited By Eric Robson on 15/01/2021 14:38:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Ron, if you want to have a scale position for a steerable tail wheel I would do it before the side sheets are on as the piano wire needs to go through the top hole for stability therefor you would have to make up an arm to fit securely on to the wire. when the sides are on you can only get to it from the underside before sheeting , I used a castoring tail wheel and found it awkward to fit the retaining collar as it is quite away from the end of the plate. Let me know if you decide to do this if you need any further advice .I don't know if Paul has a steerable tailwheel as he has not given any details of his fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Hi guys, With the tail wheel mine is fixed. I have 4 of Richard's kits and the first, the Spitfire of course, started life as a swivel. THAT soon was changed to fixed! Has anyone ever watched a squirrel cross a road? I used the plastic fitting as supplied but bent the wire over and epoxied it in. I fly on very low control throw which achieves loverly scale flight's. Including all the rolls loops etc you will ever want. On landing switch to high rates and it's very steerable. The circle is slightly larger than the FMS one. But no problems. Having a fixed tail wheel aids greatly on take off in my experience. I have found that when compared to the FMS P51, which is steerable, a locked tail wheel seems to stop that sudden yaw after the tail wheel comes up as it's the rudder you want to be controlling that not the tail wheel. It seems that the tail wheels influence is suddenly lost as it lifts and it yaws more than the fixed variety. Lastly more hardware is needed to create that and some even add another servo to steer it = more weight. I cannot stress how well Richards kits fly provided you keep the weight to 6lbs or under. Heavier will fly but take off and landing will be a lot more stressful as well as the slow speed stall being higher. I have the Yak3, another of his kits, which I swear refuses to stop flying when attempting landing. I need it's little pilot to start jumping in the cockpit to get it down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Posted by Gordon McConnell on 14/01/2021 11:04:27: Looking forward to seeing what you guys do for the covering and finishing. Its a great help to be able to follow your experience! Hi Gordon, When it comes to final finishing it's a lot easier than most think. I will go through what I have learnt, thanks to Richard, As it's a process not a black art and once that process is understood, easier to achieve, you don't have to be an artist to achieve it either. from this.. To this.. Trust me you can all achieve it.... Edited By Paul Johnson 4 on 16/01/2021 07:46:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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