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Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang


RICHARD WILLS

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Hi,

I more or less fitted the retract as described by Richard. Like you Eric, I took the gear door off as it masks the positioning of the main gear.

I used the template to start the cutout for the gear actuator. I then placed the gear actuator in its position on the mounting plate and checked the positioning of the wheel. I then readjusted the template to get the wheel cutout in more or less the correct position. After cutting the wheel well out I found that the tyre fouled with the main spar so I bent the gear leg very slightly above the coil spring to correct the position of the wheel. Perhaps not the most elegant of solutions but it has worked out fine as the gear operates well and clears the wheel well.

I will route the actuator wire through the wing main box as Paul has done.

4e509edd-eaa8-4312-8882-ced931ff613c.jpeg

db53858f-82dc-4cf8-92cb-b89cfbfad75f.jpeg

I have attached a few photos of how I fitted the wing skins. I fitted the first panel aft of the main spar as this is full width without the need to trim it (except for length which is easy).

2840ad8a-2b15-420f-bb49-2017701eca76.jpeg

I weighted this down until the aliphatic glue dried. I then attached the leading edge sheet the abut the already fitted one using masking tape to fix it temporarily in position.

645f21aa-cbb9-4798-8e8d-566f7aafaab2.jpeg

I could then turn the wing over and mark a cut line on the leading edge skin panel, allowing an allowance for later trimming back to the leading edge spar. It was easy to put a straight edge on the cut line and trim the panel to size. I did the aft panel the same way.

8ab1f475-0042-46b4-8026-7fd3e8399478.jpeg

Only slight mistake was to use masking tape. The glue sticks it down along the joint and it is tedious to remove it bit by bit. I think sellotape would be better.

Now how did Paul's feet creep into my photo?..........

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Tidy work Gordon . I like your pin collection too . Yellow would have been my chosen colour .

I only have three pins left and they are all bent . Where would a chap find such a treasure trove?

I'm guessing those shoes are comfortable too and with no laces , very convenient .

I tend to wear slippers when Ive got my "serious " building head on , and a Buzz Lightyear dressing gown.

You are taller than you sound on the telephone .

Just an observation...........

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Eric,

Looking very cool. Did you cover it in brown paper?

I am thinking of doing that. Can you advise on the steps which bits you covered and how. I have been researching it and loads of places give an overview but not go into the actual bits you do and in which order I.e. cover upper fus then lower then sides etc. I guess it's normal covering but cannot find much on that either.

Jon

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Managed to complete the wing to fuselage wiring. D type fitted.connector 4.jpg

Next was the other end.

connector 5.jpg

This was located under the wing bolt retention plate.

connector 6.jpg

Servo connection at the receiver made then tidied up.

connector 7.jpg I have looked at and bought a few samples of other connectors but find the D type cheaper and very reliable.

Or you could just plug into the receiver each time....

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I knew a bloke who had to have all of the cans in his Kitchen cupboard with their labels facing North .

Im just saying ..............

Its a slippery slope .

(His wife left him BTW)

She had a preference for slightly shy of East North East .

Compromise is everything in a situation like that .

Jon I will email you the brown paper document . As a newbie , I can tell you right now that you can use pieces of any size . The only thing to remember is to try an minimise edges that will catch the wind in flight . So generally start from the back and then the piece in front will cover the lip of the rearward piece . You will not notice any of the joins once painted . That is the beauty of camouflage .

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Richard,

Glad you like the pins. It would not be real balsa bashing without sharp pins and drawing blood!

I got these at Balsa Cabin and they told me that yellow is the most popular colour. We could have a poll on favourite pin colour.........maybe not! smiley

Took the plunge today ........not literally, its freezing here........and cut out the flap and aileron from the right wing. This is where you doubt the measurements taken some weeks ago. So I found another use for the Yellow pins to double check the position of the spars below the skin. How do you manage without them Richard? Worked a treat and managed to cut out the surfaces without a problem. Phew!

Now to catch up on the left wing.

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Thanks Paul, the wiring will not be as neat as your tidy layout.

Jon, there are 3 different types of brown paper on mine . I first tried some from Tesco(not on this model). It was heavily ribbed and the surface was Like a Ju52. Richard told me to get the cheaper BP. similar to present wrapping paper I found some at Poundland, it had happy birthday all over it fortunately it was on the matt side. This is the best I have used I bought 6 mtrs. I have covered 3 planes with it and only had enough left to do the P51 wing tops. I went to get some more and they had none left only some craft brown paper which is rubbish it is poor quality and has to be put on as soon as glued or it falls apart. the 3rd paper is from B&M the cheapest of all 6mtrs for £1-50. it is lightly ribbed but this does not show after priming.. As it happens the poor quality has turned out very good I used it on the rear underside and one side from the rear to the front of the elevator and after priming it went all furry but after rubbing down with 600 grit it turned out good.

Gordon I like access to my U/C. connections that's why I have them in the wheel well I've had problems with electric retracts in the past.

Richard, you are rambling again, I hope they don't find you under someone's desk one day.

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Eric

The brown paper i use, is the type as used by car body repair shops for masking off panels, so pop down to your local body shop , " for a quick rub down " 😊 no seriously, they probably let you have the end of a roll, as i got, enough to last me the rest of my model building days. 👍

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Posted by RICHARD WILLS on 28/01/2021 20:32:25:

Eric , I'm the only sensible one on this thread . Its like the Mad Hatters tea party at this end .

Can I join this thread then we can co-share the position of sensibles. If you want Richard, you can join me in the hoity toyti ,arty farty group.(we're not too choosy).

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Posted by RICHARD WILLS on 28/01/2021 19:20:31:

I knew a bloke who had to have all of the cans in his Kitchen cupboard with their labels facing North .

Im just saying ..............

Its a slippery slope .

(His wife left him BTW)

She had a preference for slightly shy of East North East .

Compromise is everything in a situation like that .

Jon I will email you the brown paper document . As a newbie , I can tell you right now that you can use pieces of any size . The only thing to remember is to try an minimise edges that will catch the wind in flight . So generally start from the back and then the piece in front will cover the lip of the rearward piece . You will not notice any of the joins once painted . That is the beauty of camouflage .

What's the consensus on brown paper versus laminating film? What's the application like in each case, ease wise? Whats the weight comparison? As mentioned I'm starting on Spit (and will get on with a build log soon) - but have a mustang to build afterwards so will be moshing up the skills!

Cheers chaps!

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Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 28/01/2021 18:39:46:

Managed to complete the wing to fuselage wiring. D type fitted.

Next was the other end.

This was located under the wing bolt retention plate.

Servo connection at the receiver made then tidied up.

I have looked at and bought a few samples of other connectors but find the D type cheaper and very reliable.

Or you could just plug into the receiver each time....

Loving your work here. Did you think about having a shared positive and shared negatvie across all four servos? then you'd only need to solder up 5 pins on each of the D connectors?

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Posted by David Hazell 1 on 28/01/2021 21:49:57:
Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 28/01/2021 18:39:46:

Managed to complete the wing to fuselage wiring. D type fitted.

Next was the other end.

This was located under the wing bolt retention plate.

Servo connection at the receiver made then tidied up.

I have looked at and bought a few samples of other connectors but find the D type cheaper and very reliable.

Or you could just plug into the receiver each time....

Loving your work here. Did you think about having a shared positive and shared negatvie across all four servos? then you'd only need to solder up 5 pins on each of the D connectors?

Yes but it is better when soldering into the plug/socket to restrict it to one wire per pin, neater and more current capacity and I like soldering..cheeky

The black ties are waxed cotton string and good old fashioned cable lacing.

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Just catching up with Paul's post on wiring, I used to use the spiral wrap stuff as it looked nice and then an older wiser modeller mentioned to check the servo plugs.

Quite a long time after I noticed that with general wear and tear the tie wrap pulls the servo plugs out of the RX, so if using the cable tie or spiral wrap just make sure there is good cable strain relief.

PS IMHO don't like D connectors , not designed for servo power and a bit of a bugger to solder, do prefer the MPX ones, but that's only my opinion. wink

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Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 28/01/2021 21:59:56:
Posted by David Hazell 1 on 28/01/2021 21:49:57:
Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 28/01/2021 18:39:46:

Managed to complete the wing to fuselage wiring. D type fitted.

Next was the other end.

This was located under the wing bolt retention plate.

Servo connection at the receiver made then tidied up.

I have looked at and bought a few samples of other connectors but find the D type cheaper and very reliable.

Or you could just plug into the receiver each time....

Loving your work here. Did you think about having a shared positive and shared negatvie across all four servos? then you'd only need to solder up 5 pins on each of the D connectors?

Yes but it is better when soldering into the plug/socket to restrict it to one wire per pin, neater and more current capacity and I like soldering..cheeky

The black ties are waxed cotton string and good old fashioned cable lacing.

Black ties and Waxed Cotton ???!!! Is this still on topic ?

Are we all joining the Masons ?

I turn my back for five minutes and this is what happens . I feel like removing myself to another forum .

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