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Fournier RF-4


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Hatch cut out and trimmed.

img_20201127_100414119_hdr.jpg

I have not decided on how to hinge the hatch. I am thinking of using covering film the same as on the ailerons and elevator.

Plate scribed to the shape of the hatch.

img_20201127_101317130_hdr.jpg

and from the other side

img_20201127_101339069_hdr.jpg

Next cut the plate to fit and then build the cowl on to it.

Cheers beer

Steve

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Just a note of caution to anyone considering following my design changes.

Building the cowl is proving to be a challenge as I am now on my third attempt, which does not look promising.

The first issue is that using the keyhole fixing I have to allow 6mm movement vertically down. The second is caused by the size of the battery box/engine mount leaves very little balsa on the sides. Third is caused by the motor being a larger diameter than the IC shaft .

I could change the shape of the cowl and accept that it will not be scale, The nose ring would be a larger diameter.

A 3D printer or a fibre glass cowl would provide a solution but both are beyond my skill level.

Hmm thinking what to do?

Cheers beer

Steve

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It looks as though you have access to the back of the firewall when the battery hatch is removed. What I've done a couple of times is to make the back of the cowl and drill through it and the firewall (before shaping it accurately) and then fitting dowels to locate it and with a through bolt (accessed from the battery box behind the firewall) into a captive nut in the cowl back to hold it. Then build a cowl on the part you've already made. In my case it was to fit a glassfibre cowl but there's no reason it wouldn't work witha built-up one.

There's also the more drastic step of not bothering to make the cowl removeable. Once it's all connected up, provided you can access the esc/motor connections, there will hopefully be no need to get at the motor itself. Brushless motors are generally very reliable and don't need tweaking like a glow engine sometimes does, so you can seal it up with a degree of confidence. The only part of an electric drive train that's likely to fail is the esc and you can make that accessible.

Geoff

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I would always use nuts & bolts or screws on an IC model but magnets seem to work on electrics.
I use magnet to magnet, i.e. one in the firewall mating with one in the cowl secured with lots of epoxy.

Its well known that anything that's designed not to be removable will need to be removed sooner rather than later!

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Posted by Fun Flyer on 04/12/2020 15:20:06:

Its well known that anything that's designed not to be removable will need to be removed sooner rather than later!

There's an element of truth in that

So you could make the cowl removable simply by using locating dowls (cocktail sticks work well at about 2mm dia) but relying on the film covering to hold it in place. Easy to remove with a scalpel; not so easy to replace as it would need the covering to be replaced/reinforced but it's not going to be a frequent need.

Geoff

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I was about to make the same suggestion as Geoff. If you’re concerned about it getting untidy if/when the cowl has to be removed, you could cover the cowl separately then attach it with a strip of matching covering which can be removed and replaced if the need arises. Basically, it’s just a slightly upmarket way of taping the cowl in position!

Trevor

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Back in the summer this was the first time using those strong rare earth magnet on a cowl.

They are available from many on line purvayors.

Make sure north/south oriented (they are so strong they sort emselves anyaway). 6mm dia 3mm thick - 6mm ply firewall and thinner lightply on balsa cowl prior to the balsa.

Drill through light ply into 6mm firewall - don't go right through e.g. 3mm deep. Drop of epoxy in bottom hole electrical tape between facings to stop sticking. instant fixing which snap into place.

As the prop/spinner is in from It cannot fall off in flight anyway.

Here you can see marked positions Six places middle ones for 6mm alignment dowel(s)

91_cowl_interface_plate.jpg

Ready for the magnets...

93_cowl_interface_and_f1_drilled_for_location_pegs_magnets.jpg

Cheeks added

94_building_blocks.jpg

Carving/Sanding

103_acro_star_nose_job.jpg

Painted ready for rest of covering.

This just pulls off (with quite a tug) once spinner and prop removed.

117_finished_carving_sanding_painting_cowl.jpg

It's now going to my standard method for cowl on sport jobby.

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Thankyou everybody. Your combined effort has convinced me not to give up. I have made a few adjustments and can now get the 6mm vertical movement needed for the keyhole fixing method, but I do like the magnet idea.

I had not given up just stalled, which I am told is not a good idea in this hobby. laugh

I could have fixed the ESC and motor in permanently because, so far, they have always lasted longer than the aeroplane. laugh

Filled with new enthusiasm I have cut some balsa and glued it in place.

Once again thanks.

Cheers beer

Steve

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I am gradually adding bits of balsa.

Here I am test fitting to make sure that when in place that the cowl can be removed.

img_20201207_095652197_hdr.jpg

Good job I did because this time if I had glued it the cowl would not have come off. Near miss I think blush

Am I the only one who has to go this long winded process?

Working on the top of the cowl next.

Cheers beer

Steve

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