The wee bit that joins the elevator halves

[Ernie]

I've searched the web, both high and low for the wire with a horn soldered onto it, that is used to join elevator halves together

I do feel a bit of a wimp for not making one, but it is such a critical wee component, that I don't want to chance bin bagging my latest jewel due to my dodgy silver soldering skills

where can I find one?

ernie

[Keith Berriman]

Flair Models are showing said item in their web pages

FL2093 part number

Edited By Keith Berriman on 14/09/2020 15:59:31

[perttime]

I believe people mostly don't use elevator control horns that are attached to the joiner wire.

What are you building? Are you sure you need one?

The first one I could find online was on the (Control Line Stunt) supplier RSM Distribution in USA **LINK**

(Select 'Building Supplies' -> 'Control Horns' )

Edited By perttime on 14/09/2020 16:00:49

[Alan Gorham_]

Posted by Keith Berriman on 14/09/2020 15:54:03:

Flair Models are showing said item in their web pages

FL2093 part number

Edited By Keith Berriman on 14/09/2020 15:59:31

Flair models also show all their kits that have been out of manufacture for nigh a decade.

I'm afraid that if you find the Flair part at a model shop or online it will be old stock.

I think you should get your gas torch and silver solder out Ernie....

[John Wagg]

i made mine using a bit of tube soldered to a piece of piano wire.

[Denis Watkins]

Are we talking about this type

[Nigel R]

I have seen a pair of aileron torque rods used for this.

Imagine two of these chaps sat next to each other with the threaded upright bits touching.

One gets the threaded bit nipped off.

Both are then bound and soldered together just below the thread.

The standard screw on horn is then put on the remaining thread.

Easy to do and does not rely on only the solder joint to transfer the torque.

[Stuphedd]

I normally use that type of elevator "horn" on models where I want to hide it inside the fuz.

for lightish models 25-30 powered , I just bend the piano wire in half there will be a loop produced , Put the loop in the vice and twist the two rods together untill the required horn length is reached then bend them at right angles opposite each other and then bend them to fit into the elevator ,

I do fill the loop with silver solder so as to drill the hole exactly 1/16"

bigger ones I actually trust hard silver soldering a brass horn onto the wire no failures in umpteen decades ..

[Peter Miller]

When soldering a strip of brass to the wire silver solder is vital.

We used to make out own for controlline stunt models

[Ernie]

good morning guys, and thanks a zillion for your help and interest

Keith, thats exactly what I need, alas, I never get anywhere with Flair, perhaps I'll try yet again. Yes Denis, thats what I need, Its for the Fury that I'm building with Danny Fenton. I'm way behind, but still plugging away Thats the sort of thing John, I've spent a lot of time, so I want something substantial, and yes Peter Miller and Stuphedd, its going to be a home made silver soldered joint

ernie

[ken anderson.]

last build a couple of months ago(dracon) I made my own and used ordinary solder.....brass to piano wire

ken anderson...ne...1..soldering dept.

[Trevor]

Silver soldering isn't my strength so, since the wire gauge is usually a bit heavy for Stuphedd's twist and drill method, I make the joiner in two halves, grind a flat on the inboard faces of the vertical sections, then hammer on a length of brass tube. The overhanging end of the tube is flattened and drilled to take a clevis, then the whole lot glued together with epoxy. This method has proved very reliable over the years - a few examples below.

Trevor

Trevor

[FlyinBrian]

Surely If you bind the joint with copper wire prior to soldering it would be strong enough??

[Peter Miller]

If you can't silver solder there is a way that works quite well and even if some of the solder gives it will provide some elevator control

Take your piece of brass and drill the hole for the wire. Now drill a second hole just touching it to give a figure eight hole.

Slide your elevator joiner into the tophole and a short peice of the same wire into the lower hole.

Bind firmly with tinned copper wire and then solder everything properly.

This will give a better joint that just a drilled hole which has no mechanical way of stopping rotation

[Bert]

Ernie,

If you send me a sketch of what you want, with some dimensions I will happily make you a couple of them FOC.

Bert

[Ernie]

Bert, that's incredibly kind of you, but not yet. I'll have a go myself. I've found a nice wee bit of steel, and some piano wire, all around the correct thickness.

As ever the first big problem is where did I put the silver solder, and is that white powder flux or cocaine

Trevor, that looks perfectly possible, It shall be plan B

ernie

[Bert]

Ernie

Just keep it in mind, if you need it.

Bert