Jon H Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 Ahh that sounds more promising. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted May 17, 2021 Author Share Posted May 17, 2021 Engine back in the plane and will report latter in the week once I get a chance to do a test run in the garden. Have to abide by local noise restrictions from my better half so limited as to when the next run can be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy J Posted May 20, 2021 Author Share Posted May 20, 2021 Two short runs performed this morning and all seems well, so thanks all for the advice given on this topic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 Great to hear that Andy? But the mystery of the whirring gear train remains unsolved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul james 8 Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 Interesting thread which I chanced upon when looking for info on my own RCV58CD. I'm surprised that the cylinder is found to be a tight fit in the upper casting, it has to turn freely as the piston goes up and down. Was it perhaps the bearing being tight that required the force to get it apart? As for the comments about removing bearing seals/shields once the outer part is removed the part sitting on the balls is the "cage" and needs to be left on situ to space the balls. Some bearings don't have these and are known as "crowded" for obvious reasons. The latter aren't used in model engine applications to my knowledge. The issue with my engine is bad running, it was new when I got it so I ran a good amount of Weston Prosynth 2000 10% through it to run it in. The problem is that it just won't run right. I can set it so that it peaks with the top end needle just over 1 turn out, I can then get a reasonable tickover (not sure of exact speeds as my tacho isn't working properly) . I can drop it down slowly from high revs to tickover with good transition but as soon as I start to open it up again it splutters and cuts out. I'm using OS FS plugs as recommended and the fuel runs fine in other engines. Compression when cold feels fine but drops off a bit when it gets hot. It does seem to run hot but won't run if the top end is richened further. Anyone got any ideas?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 Paul, you are probably right regarding your point about cylinder being tight in the upper casting. It may have been the cylinder bearing that was holding the cylinder back. These engines do run hotter than conventional poppet valve model engines. Regarding your issue why don't you talk to Weston UK folks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 1 hour ago, Paul james 8 said: can drop it down slowly from high revs to tickover with good transition but as soon as I start to open it up again it splutters and cuts out. Check the tank and pipes for pressure Paul It does sound like a pressure leak 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul james 8 Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 I messed around for ages trying to set the engine up it got got, wouldn't rev and wouldn't tick over so I eventually decided to bite the bullet and strip it down. This was a brand new engine when I got it and had never seen fuel. The internals all looked fine so I carefully reassembled it making sure that the timing was spot on. Put it in my test stand and fired it up and soon had it running sweet. I then had to put it back in the model inverted so hoped that it would still be fine. Took the model to the field yesterday and fired it up, gave it some final adjustments and it was great! Due to a strong cross wind I didn't maiden the plane but did taxiing trials successfully. I'm tending to think that the timing may have been one tooth out, the way it ran was typical of bad timing. They are easy enough to work on so it would be interesting to see if anyone else who is having problems can cure them by setting up the timing correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul james 8 Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 On 17/08/2021 at 13:41, Manish Chandrayan said: Paul, you are probably right regarding your point about cylinder being tight in the upper casting. It may have been the cylinder bearing that was holding the cylinder back. These engines do run hotter than conventional poppet valve model engines. Regarding your issue why don't you talk to Weston UK folks? The cylinder wasn't tight in mine, I was referring to comments made by others. I can see now that it wasn't the cylinder that was tight in those instances but the cylinder bearing. Having stripped and rebuilt mine I'm pretty convinced that the timing was out. The exhaust outlet pipe was running blue with excess heat, I polished it up and now it is just a light straw colour. I did contact the Weston folks but the guy I needed to speak with was away for a few days so I just got on with investigating it. The internals were in top shape so that was reassuring.??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 It does sound like it was one tooth out, my Land Rover's engine will run if you get the timing belt one tooth out but not vert well. Good to go now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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