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Drill press recommendations


Mike T
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Hi all,

 

My old Clarke drill press was never very precise, with an extremely wobbly quill when at the bottom of its travel.  A few months ago I took it apart to try and resolve this, using nylon screws in tapped holes, to try and take out the play (see pic).  I've decided it's a basket case, so is there anything out there that forumites can particularly recommend as a replacement?  I know I could throw money at the problem, but I'd prefer not to...

PICT0028.JPG

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Thanks Don - that was pretty much plan A anyway - just wanted to get some recommendations from other buyers' experiences.  Apparently not a lot of people own drill presses!

 

OTOH, it could be that people had nothing worthwhile to say on the subject - but that rarely prevents them from posting on other threads... ?

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I’ve used a few, various locations. You get what you pay for. But the machine I got 20 years ago is a Nu Tool Group 12 speed 16mm chuck. Mass produced.
It’s heavy, has no run out, and it does not slop as it goes down. I recall it cost £40! Must have saved that in broken bits, as you can be precise in use. 
As good as a top make unit, no, but I find it good enough for my needs.At the time it cost a bit less than a new small basic unit, and it’s streets better than them.
I changed the chuck. Cost a bit more but the new one is nice, good for .7 mm to 16mm, saving using a pin chuck for small stuff

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I use a relatively cheap Clarke mill/drill for smaller work but I have a rather old Kerry pillar drill for anything heavier/larger. I was lucky enough to pick it up  for a token amount as scrap from work (condemned due to an obsolete broken return spring which was a 2 minute job to bend a new tang on) and luckily I had a single phase motor that I could fit to it. 

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A likely source of reasonably priced drilling machines are companies that buy up old machines. Many will be from schools that have decided that design technology no longer fits the image they wish to portray. Bowerhill which are in the Swindon area are worth investigating. The good thing is that most pillar drills used in schools are single phase. If I was buying again I would go for a floor mounted pillar drill rather than a bench drill. The reason being that eventually you will need to drill a hole in a part that won'r fit on a bench drill! You can guess how I know!

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Thanks for the input chaps! 

Don - I've looked up the NuTool and apart from the colour, it looks identical to my old Clarke - I suspect all these come from the same place, with varying degrees of quality control, depending on whose badge is going on them!

Plummet - I'm in south Wales, so Yorks. would be a bit of a schlep!

Martin(s) - yes - I've pretty much come to the conclusion that old s/h is probably best and anything new has to be tried/inspected beforehand (but I'm pretty sure Lidl and Aldi won't welcome me ripping open boxes to find one with a slop-free quill!)

One of the reasons I'm keen to change this now is that the motor is fine and I want to use it to upgrade my Peatol (Taig) lathe!

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I use a Aldi pillar drill/press. For the holes I drill, it is more than good enough, for my needs. Maybe disturbingly low cost for many.

 

If you are after real precision, it is not just the machine that is required, it is the rest of the engineering kit, be it slip gauges, engineering buttons  and so on

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Fair point re Lidl/Aldi - but I know my luck - I could end up going through half a dozen returns before I found a good 'un, which would likely wear the patience of all concerned!

 

Re precision, I'm not after mill-type resolution - I just need a considerable improvement on the 3-4mm run-out I have at present - and that's with the 'adjusters' pictured in the OP! ?

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The Aldi pillar drill is almost certainly much better than the run out you indicated.

 

I use a number of Aldi tools from a Li-ion pistol drill, Dremel type mini drill  (as good as my Dremel) and the Pillar drill, all have worked great for a DIY type application/usage.

 

Another aspect of precision, particularly to the size of the hole drilled is the tip of the drill, are the cutting edges the same length, that is the point actually at the centre. also the length of the drill itself will have some effect.

 

For absolute accuracy you need something like a Jig Borer, plus tooling. 

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