EarlyBird Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 A change of plan. U/C and servo tray made. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 17, 2021 Author Share Posted December 17, 2021 Back on track with F3 glued using a battery to clamp in place at right angles. The formers have bits sticking out beyond the ply side plate which is why the wood has been used to lift it all above the worktop. I am thinking ahead with regard to F2 with the U/C attached and I assume a change of method will be required. The servo tray will be next, to provide bracing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted December 17, 2021 Share Posted December 17, 2021 On 16/12/2021 at 07:44, EarlyBird said: All the formers are ready. Test fitted and doublers added some minor adjustments to accommodate the crutch taper on the F6-F9 will be done as they are individually fitted. Start assembling following the usual method with the formers at right angles to the side plates glued to one side then add the second side on top. Will there be scallops on the fuselage... or clams? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 17, 2021 Author Share Posted December 17, 2021 A sticky out bit. ? Formers added one at a time. F4 F2 by overhanging the U/C. That's the three parallel formers in place then added the second side plate. Once dried set it up on the fuselage jig. Leave to completely cure overnight then more formers working towards the tail. ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 18, 2021 Author Share Posted December 18, 2021 Early start today ? I decided, in the middle of the night, that the crutch needs to be parallel to the board so that a square can be used to set the formers vertical and hence at right angles to the crutch. After lots of measuring and checking F5 was glued in place. Looks good so far. Fingers crossed as this build method is completely new to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 18, 2021 Share Posted December 18, 2021 Ah! Very good!! I just use a pair of mark 2 calibrated eyeballs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 18, 2021 Author Share Posted December 18, 2021 8 hours ago, Peter Miller said: I just use a pair of mark 2 calibrated eyeballs I have eyeballs but I don't have a clue what I am looking at. F6 F7 and F8 I am working on F9 ply tail wheel mount but that will be for tomorrow. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted December 18, 2021 Share Posted December 18, 2021 12 hours ago, Peter Miller said: Ah! Very good!! I just use a pair of mark 2 calibrated eyeballs Won't they roll around on the building board...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i12fly Posted December 18, 2021 Share Posted December 18, 2021 12 hours ago, Peter Miller said: Ah! Very good!! I just use a pair of mark 2 calibrated eyeballs I've only got worn mk 1 version and although calibrated for very close work, would like to upgrade, how do you upgrade to mk 2? ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 Just have the cataracts removed!? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 19, 2021 Author Share Posted December 19, 2021 I thought Spectacles made mine mark 2, not to worry as today they are working just fine. F9 fitted and working on the tail. Test fitting the first stringer ready for tomorrow but line and levels look good. ? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 20, 2021 Author Share Posted December 20, 2021 Put the strip cutter together and ran off some 1/8x3/16 stringers. Then test assembled some. Not easy but fun working it out. ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 Test fit to check how they all line up. and glued and after drying overnight. but on inspection one stringer was not straight. On the Ballerina I had the same and left it bent which I regret every time I see it. Having learned that lesson I now correct any errors when spotted. It took ages to correct but now it's done I am happy. I have made a start on the other side which I will finish tomorrow.? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 and the other side. but it's not finished. A decision was required regarding the controls for the elevator and rudder. I had already decided not to go with the internal elevator snake and was undecided on the pull pull rudder. I considered having the elevator servo on the tail but on reflection and as advised, thanks Peter ?, it would not look neat. Still thinking of what to do. In the mean time. added parts of the jigsaw that will eventually transform a flat sided box into a beautiful shape. As you can see I haven't worked out the front electric conversion yet which is why I have not followed instructions and completed the planking before the stringers. What I need now is for Santa to bring some 1/8" balsa for the planking, not long to wait. This is proving to be an interesting rewarding build that I know will result in a model that will look beautiful and fly like it's on rails. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 I used standard size servos on mine with pull to the rudder BUT I connected the cables to a bell crank and operated THAT with a short pushrod from the servo. It makes adjustment so much simpler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Berriman Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 I have regularly fitted the SLEC fusalage transfer linkage for elevator it gives me a nice solid rod inside the fuselage and neat linkage out side with plenty of adjustment if needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 yes I used to use them a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 (edited) Is this the transfer linkage you use? Looks a good idea and used with a pushrod ( or a pull rod ) might be much better than snakes. On a different model I have just changed an elevator from a front servo with snake to a rear mounted servo - but it now needs an extra 4 ounces of lead up front! Reason for changing is the trim altered every time presumably because of expansion/contraction of the snake inner due to temperature. Edited December 23, 2021 by kc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Davies 3 Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 50 minutes ago, kc said: Is this the transfer linkage you use? Looks a good idea and used with a pushrod ( or a pull rod ) might be much better than snakes. On a different model I have just changed an elevator from a front servo with snake to a rear mounted servo - but it now needs an extra 4 ounces of lead up front! Reason for changing is the trim altered every time presumably because of expansion/contraction of the snake inner due to temperature. Hi KC, This has been done to death on here, but snakes don't change significantly with temperature provided each end of the outer is securely glued, and the middle is allow to bow. That way the relative length of the inner to outer is unchanged. Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 In the old days Micro Mould did a slightly neater and smaller one. I MAY have one left.must check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Graham. I know this aspect of snakes has been mentioned before.......but my model (a Swamp Rat ) has been built according to the plan with the snake outers in holes at each former and not just restrained at either end. The middle cannot bow. The trim changes each time, while a different model with a pushrod straight to elevator through fuselage centre keeps trim whatever the temperature. Therefore the transfer linkage appeals although it's got more places where some play could occur and of course more places for failure. ( 2 extra clevis or Z bends and a pivot point ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Davies 3 Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Don't get me wrong KC, I usually prefer pushrods as I find it easier to get the line straight to the hinge. What you have described is common and avoidable. I built lots of models with snakes going though tight holes in formers before I thought about how the snake outers need to move. I'm not a fan of rear mounted servos as I find the installations a bit ugly in many cases, but I can see the benefits. There are very many ways to skin this particular cat, if we're still allowed such analogies! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 24, 2021 Share Posted December 24, 2021 On models we have several ways of doing the controls to the tail controls. They all have their pros and cons and we all have our preferred ways of doing it. Just be thankful that you are not working on the controls on full size aircraft grovelling in confined spaces and struggling to reach parts with one hand let alone two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted December 24, 2021 Share Posted December 24, 2021 Don't forget that servos used in the F3/F5 community are small, light and very powerful (yes they also cost more!) and I've found them to be great for mounting in the tail of some 'planes. In fact on my BF110 I weighed up the components for options of solid pushrod, snake and servo and the servo was the lightest solution! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted December 24, 2021 Author Share Posted December 24, 2021 I have fitted metal pushrods. because I have them and straight runs can be made. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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