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Retracts


Andy J
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Have you tried operating the control valve by hand, rather than the servo? The reason I say this is that the servo could be moving the slide bar too much, I had exactly that problem on one of my installations and it became obvious when I operated it by hand and could hear the air leaking when I moved it too much. As a result I change the end limits and servo centre for that channel on my Tx and the problem went away.

Edited by Ron Gray
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28 minutes ago, Ron Gray said:

Have you tried operating the control valve by hand, rather than the servo? The reason I say this is that the servo could be moving the slide bar too much, I had exactly that problem on one of my installations and it became obvious when I operated it by hand and could hear the air leaking when I moved it too much. As a result I change the end limits and servo centre for that channel on my Tx and the problem went away.

Yes,

 

I have operated it only by hand - although I have not played with moving the spool at different lengths. But, as I have operated it by hand there is no excessive force or side play applied. But, I can try again. Let’s see.

 

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The only ones that have never given me any trouble are the Robart ones, a spray of silicone grease now and then,

as for the servo throw I use a sliding bar with a wheel Colette on each end and a piece of silicone fuel tubing to keep the valve drawer in the right place, I can take a photo of my 20-year-old plane with it still working in it.

 There are electronic ones, but they don't like a lot of pressure.

 

 

 Ps I also have a couple of those leaky blue ones "any offers",,,😅

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It uses solenoid valves to control the air, on my mates 190 we pump it up to 110 psig and it holds it there. It also has the option to isolate the air at the valve after a period of time, so if you had say a leaking retract unit, you'd only lose air from the section of line downstream of the valve (note on my mates 190 we had to disable this feature as the tailwheel retract isn't the locking type).

 

It's a neat unit that replaces the servo and air valve, they do a whole range of units for different types retracts whether they are air up/spring down or air up/down. More info here

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9 minutes ago, Jon - Laser Engines said:

i thought you meant fill valve as well. 

 

Not seen that sort of leak on my units at all so its new for me. I would change the O rings and lube it up with some grease before spending big money on a new valve. 

Thanks, Jon,

 

So you have had better luck with ESM similar control valve units? 

 

Anyways,  easy to test now as the system is now at hand. 

Edited by Artto Ilmanen
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IMO the slide bar in your vid is too far in, pull it back a bit. That is exactly what I had with mine, I pulled the bar back a bit and it sealed. I reasoned that the O ring was going past the air tube so let the air out along the bar, moving it back meant the O ring was the ‘right side’ of the air tube so blocked any air from escaping.

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31 minutes ago, Ron Gray said:

IMO the slide bar in your vid is too far in, pull it back a bit. That is exactly what I had with mine, I pulled the bar back a bit and it sealed. I reasoned that the O ring was going past the air tube so let the air out along the bar, moving it back meant the O ring was the ‘right side’ of the air tube so blocked any air from escaping.

 

Ron, although it was not seen on the video I did try exactly what you write - no help, unfortunately. But I will change the O-rings. With any luck I should be good, if not, then a new valve.

 

But I also need to ensure I use proper grease - any recommendations? Just normal vaseline or something else?

Edited by Artto Ilmanen
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Ok, thanks for everybody for valuable advice - I certainly know how to fix my air control valve issue now.

 

Another thing: I need to get a pump to fill the air tank at the airfield.

I have been thinking of a Robart hand pump or some electric ones. My starter runs on a 3S lipo so maybe I could use it as a power source for the pump. Also, a quality gauge is obviously needed.

 

What kind if setups do you gents use at the field to fill the air tank?

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10 hours ago, Artto Ilmanen said:

Ok, thanks for everybody for valuable advice - I certainly know how to fix my air control valve issue now.

 

Another thing: I need to get a pump to fill the air tank at the airfield.

I have been thinking of a Robart hand pump or some electric ones. My starter runs on a 3S lipo so maybe I could use it as a power source for the pump. Also, a quality gauge is obviously needed.

 

What kind if setups do you gents use at the field to fill the air tank?

Mine is a cheap one, probably £10 at the time running on a 3s 2200 lipo.

65627-02.jpg

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9 hours ago, stu knowles said:

If you connect the two outlets together in the way that you have you will get an apparent leak as one tube would be driving the retract and the other will be open to the air.

Attach two separate tubes, each with one end blocked and try again

 

good point, didnt spot that

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9 hours ago, stu knowles said:

If you connect the two outlets together in the way that you have you will get an apparent leak as one tube would be driving the retract and the other will be open to the air.

Attach two separate tubes, each with one end blocked and try again

 

good remark - now that you say it it's obvious.

 

Will try again although I do believe the problem persists

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