Wood Glue......Which do you prefer?

[Martin Dance 1]

I use the Titebond range of adhesives both for model making and conventional woodworking (furniture making). I've tried most ready to use adhesives and find that Titebond overall is the best, certainly the most reliable.

 

Sources in the UK  Axminster Tools,

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Something that isn't a daft price, don't care if it's 20 stronger than the wood, stronger and a little flex does it for me, mostly Evo green bottle.

[Ace]

Evo-stik blue (waterproof) on a Wot 4 kit that may be used as a float plane. Good performance but ever so slightly rubbery when sanded.

5 Star Aliphatic (yellow tint) which soaked well into end grain on pre treated joints and sanded better than PVA.

Someone recommended Gorilla wood (off white) as it was supposed to sand better than std PVA's - have some but not yet tried, anyone tried it yet?

[Eric Robson]

I always used Evo stick but none of the local shops keep it now, they all stock Gorilla wood glue. I used some a while ago and was not impressed, however I tried again and on two pieces of 1/4" balsa I clamped together left overnight, a senior moment, I glued them in the wrong place. Despite all efforts they were only parted by destroying the smallest piece. I  have found the Gorilla wood glue sands well when planking.

[Ron Gray]

Consistent good results using Gorilla Glue white and clear but the latter hasn’t got a fast grab time. Excellent sanding results and the white dries clear so good for canopies and ‘glassing’ dials on an instrument panel. For smaller models it’s Super Phatic and an occasional bit of CA..

[dave parnham]

interesting Ron about the canopies, I've never gotten on well with canopy glue funny that !

[Ace]

@Ron Gray  

Quote

white dries clear so good for canopies and ‘glassing’ dials on an instrument panel

Are you referring to the Gorilla White wood glue or the Clear ? Have not tried the White for glazing although I have found the clear a good replacement for canopy glue, only issue its not as easy to see where its placed being clear when wet.

[John Lee]

So many Gorilla products!

 

I tried this & did not like it, I found the consistency too thick. With 4/5ths of the bottle left I went back to Titebond.

 

[Ron Gray]

The easiest way to apply GGW is not from the container! I squeeze out an amount into a small plastic cup or even onto a plastic lid then apply using a spreader (ice lolly stick). That way you get an even, thin, layer of glue exactly where you want it.

 

The GGW dries clear so that is what I use for a canopy glue or instrument glass.

[Ace]

Cheers Ron 👍

 

[dave parnham]

Final one from me on this topic, i have never gotten on well with Canopy glue but thinking about Ron's advice i put some in a saucer and left it for about 10 mins or so while i masked up the airframe on the Beast 60E and made sure glue didn't run everywhere. Then i applied it to the airframe with a paint brush, its always seemed too runny to stick to anything in the past, but turns out the best Canopy I've ever stuck in place.

Shame i put the job off last summer.

 

[Trevor Crook]

Another vote for Gorilla wood glue, as said above you don't have to apply it from the bottle. 

I often use a combination of wood glue and cyano. I run a bead of wood glue, leaving small gaps into which I put drops of medium cyano. If held together briefly this avoids using pins. Using purely cyano is expensive and I find the joints a bit brittle. 

 

I too haven't had much joy with canopy glue, so I use UHU Por, which seems to grab and stick much better. It is a bit stringy, but cleans off of acetate nicely using meths. It's also foam friendly if that's relevant to the job.