Martin McIntosh Posted October 20, 2023 Share Posted October 20, 2023 Being a bit of a Lancaster fan I could not help looking at this although I already have far to many models, lots of which are yet to be flown because I now have great problems walking, carrying and seeing properly and need help to get my stuff across the field. The laser eye treatment I had 10 or so years ago has now failed and I face a 4 month wait to get small cataracts removed, so here we go again. With the now silly cost and availability of many model building materials I wondered if I could build it purely from my scrap box. I have stripped down my small quads because our landlord decided to ban them so have plenty of motors and props, forward and reverse. Now, being me, I rarely build as per plan and did not like the idea of a hand launched model with no u/c. luckily I have a spare pair of tiny retracts. One came with a broken micro switch but I was able to replace it. With all the associated extra wiring this was what you may term a tight squeeze and called for a built up wing. The section on the plan is as near as dammit the canard on Rutan aircraft so I drew up the ribs with Profili. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted October 20, 2023 Share Posted October 20, 2023 Hi Martin, Am I right in assuming you have made a built up ribbed wing for your recent free plan Lancaster ? Over... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted October 20, 2023 Share Posted October 20, 2023 (edited) Hi Martin, I'm very impressed with your modifications. Well done. Looking forward to seeing it flying. Martin. Edited October 20, 2023 by Martin Gay 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 20, 2023 Author Share Posted October 20, 2023 So am I! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 20, 2023 Author Share Posted October 20, 2023 Rich, yep. The ribs are from 3/32nd and the skin 1/16th with a 3/16th spruce top spar and a partial bottom spar from 3/16th balsa. MG, thanks for that. Am I correct in assuming that an electric version was not actually produced since the only reference to one is the suggested motors? There will be when I get it done and my eyes sorted out. I have flown a TN 132", my own design 81" and the small HK version, all of which refused to turn with ailerons alone so this one is getting rudders using an external linkage: more complication. Due to me making a model like this in such a small size I have found that there is much more work than first anticipated but it will give me something to do in the shed for a fair time thankfully. I was going to cover it in HK polyester which I started to do the tail with then found two new sheets of Litespan in black which will be much better since it will go round the tight curves and readily take paint. I checked the motors on 3s and 5x3 three bladers. They produce 80W each which will probably be far too much but I do not have any 2s left which are still any good. I have 2x TGY 500 HV packs which will make up a 3s2p 1000 and will fit OK. The other inner nacelle is the next to be treated but I am rapidly running out of soft 1/2 and 1/4 balsa. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted October 20, 2023 Share Posted October 20, 2023 Cool, thanks Martin. May I ask please will you be making the built up wing 'plan" and rib outline/positioning available to the forum please. Also, what motors are you using please. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 20, 2023 Author Share Posted October 20, 2023 Hi Rich, No need to publish a plan, the centre ribs are 45mm apart and the rest 1-8 are spaced at 40mm which works out quite well. Braces are about 3/6 deep and then the outer sections epoxied on. LE is 1/8 plus another 1/8 after sheeting is done. Ailerons simply cut out and faced with 1/8 but if I had had enough suitable wood I would have made them solid. Not worth a 50 mile round trip to the LMS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 I've had 3 Lancasters first one scratch built 55" span with 2 OS 20s second one a priory models 72 " with 4 400 brushed motors and this one built by eflightray 104"span. Every one yawed on ailerons. The Priory one had no rudders and I thought I was going to loose it as it wouldn't turn at half throttle, I opened it up to full and managed to turn it. The current one will fly well on rudder and elevator, Ray had the motors linked to the rudders, I prefer the outers on one battery and the inners on a second battery. I haven't linked the ailerons to the rudders as I prefer to keep them separate. Looking forward to seeing your Lanc flying, good luck with the eyes, I had my left eye cataract done 24 years ago, had great vision since but I think age is catching up now. Regarding material costs the Lancaster is built from depron covered with paper ironed on with thinned PVA weight 11lb 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 Hi Martin, Rib profiles ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Bradly Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 On 21/10/2023 at 06:28, Martin McIntosh said: I have flown a TN 132", my own design 81" and the small HK version, all of which refused to turn with ailerons alone 3 hours ago, Eric Robson said: Every one yawed on ailerons. I've had a B-25, about 2m span. Behaved the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 Rich Griff, The Free Plan Lancaster has an Eppler 374 wing section, if that helps with those of you that wish to construct a built up wing. Martin. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 21, 2023 Author Share Posted October 21, 2023 You now have a choice of the Rutan canard or the Eppler 374 which must be the same or very similar, also either could have the thickness increased if you wish by downloading even the basic version of Profili. It makes everything very simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 21, 2023 Author Share Posted October 21, 2023 I use the mix switch to toggle between coupled ail and rud or normal independent on some models. Works out well. Don't remember the B25 I had being a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 27, 2023 Author Share Posted October 27, 2023 MG, what sort of weight is your slope version please? I am now well ahead with the covering and will post more pics soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted October 28, 2023 Share Posted October 28, 2023 Martin, The slope version is 702 grams ready to fly, including the bouncing bomb. MG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 28, 2023 Author Share Posted October 28, 2023 Cheers . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted November 18, 2023 Author Share Posted November 18, 2023 Hi all, I decided to wait until the model was completed before posting again. With 2x TGY 3s 500 HV packs configured as 3s2p plus all the other extra bits and pieces it comes out at a pleasing 712g so very much the same as the original slope version. The Lite Span over sheeted surfaces has not turned out too well despite much previous use on open structures, but it will have to do. Fettling the linkages etc with the wing connected up has been a nightmare, with some evil gremlin seemingly changing things overnight, but got there in the end. One thing I have never done before was to hinge the surfaces before painting. Big mistake. When the satin lacquer set it gummed up all the hinge lines and has taken a lot of work to free them up. I said above that pics were to follow soon but the weather is so dull that I shall leave it for a while longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 712g! That is lightweight considering all the extra stuff that you added. 80W per motor give something close to 75W/lb. I look forward to the report, post maiden. Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted November 19, 2023 Share Posted November 19, 2023 I build the Gad Lancaster with 4 drone motors and at first 2 x 2200 3s battery's now on 2 x 1400 3s battery's and retracts, no rudder, it's a delight to fly, 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Gaskin 1 Posted November 19, 2023 Share Posted November 19, 2023 A chap in our club has been flying an electric version, complete with 'Upkeep' fitted for a few weeks now. It goes very nicely indeed, but he did have a few challenges along the way. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Ivory Posted November 19, 2023 Share Posted November 19, 2023 Hi Martin, A club member said that you have just built a RCM&E Lancaster, found your article very interesting as I have just finished mine and it had its first test flight last week. I kept it simple, no retracts or rudder. It’s all made from Depron covered in 17g glass cloth which kept it light, all up weight 510g with a 1000mAh 3S battery. Flys really well powered by 2211 2300KV motors on 5”x3” three bladed props giving a total thrust of 400g at full power. Looking forward to your comments after your Lancaster first test flight. Regards John Ivory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted November 20, 2023 Author Share Posted November 20, 2023 That is encouraging to hear, John. My motors say E-Max 11806 2280kV, same props. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted November 20, 2023 Author Share Posted November 20, 2023 Now for a few pics. I forgot to say that after the basic 3/32nd sides I gave up trying to bend the stuff I had around the tight curves so changed to 1/16th. The only thing I have had to buy was some more Guild paint since my old tins had dried up somewhat. The satin lacquer is Rustin`s plastic floor coating. I shall not bother to make the turret or canopy until I know that the model flies OK. Very much doubt that spinners and inner cowls would be practicable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heritage_1944 Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 As this is my first project, please could someone clarify the Dihedral. I understood the Lancaster had a 7 degree dihedral so with 352 mm from outer edge of inside engine to wingtip and 7 degree dihedral would be 42mm at the wingtip. However the plan shows from the outer edge of the inside engine to the wingtip 352mm with a 16mm at the tip giving 2.6 degree dihedral. Is this the difference between the real thing and the aerodynamics of PSS? Many Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Hi Heritage_1944, It was all about aesthetics at the end of the day. As the wing section on the model is much thinner than the full size more dihedral than shown on the plan just did not look right! The PSS version flies very well on the slope and also handles a good blow with ease. Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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