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Riot Servos


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Hi

 

Has anyone used alternative servos in their Riot?  Century apparently out of stock so looking for alternatives.

 

17g as I understand but are they all the same?

 

Look forward to hearing from you

 

S

Edited by Stuart Z
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Thanks Chris. Point taken and I agree totally.  It is a rudder servo that is oscillating rather than rotating.  Probably OK to fly but I replace rather than put the plane or people at risk.  I find it needs rudder to do good turns (drags it’s tail in turns) and of course it takes a beating on the ground.

 

S

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1 hour ago, Stuart Z said:

Thanks Chris. Point taken and I agree totally.  It is a rudder servo that is oscillating rather than rotating.  Probably OK to fly but I replace rather than put the plane or people at risk.  I find it needs rudder to do good turns (drags it’s tail in turns) and of course it takes a beating on the ground.

 

S

I had a similar problem on my Slowpoke, gears on the rudder servo stripped eventually due to the extra stresses imposed by the tailwheel.  Replaced it with a metal geared one.

Edited by Shaun Walsh
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2 hours ago, Stuart Z said:

I find it needs rudder to do good turns (drags it’s tail in turns) and of course it takes a beating on the ground.

 

S

I've set some aileron differential on mine, from memory about 1.5 times as much up deflection as down. This makes it turn in a more balanced way by decreasing the tendency for adverse yaw.

Or use the rudder 😀

Kim 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well,   I tried the Radient servos and found them on the small side, bearing in mind mine is a replacement fuz and the servo tray may be different to that  supplied in the complete plane.  I have also tried the Etronic servo and that was about 1mm too long so out with the file. 
 

Bearing in mind I have built a few planes in

my time it has prompted the following comments 

 

The access to the servos is very restricted and my size 11 hands are not good for the job so it was like surgery with long tweezers and long nose pliers

 

The rudder pushrod is actually tight in the tubing making the servo work very hard.  
 

The pushrod is not in line with the servo.  
 

In a conventional model all things that can be easily managed-but not in this lump of foam?  

 

Probably now put to one side as the rudder is used a lot and this will cause battery drain, shortening flights. 
 

Still have a viable Ruckus but after that it’s back to the IC models.  So much easier to work on.

 

Just my opinion.

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My pushrods were tighter than I liked so I dribbled oil in from the control surface end and wiggled it by hand for a while... didn't fix it 100% but certainly fixed it enough for 400+ flights......

 

"...... back to ic models. So much easier to work on."  It's not because it's electric, it's because it's white!

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  • 2 weeks later...

GG

 

Sorry it's been a while but finally got round to it - definitely helps - pulled the rod out and treated most of it to lightweight oil.  Makes a big difference to the control movement.  I did not oil the end that went through the servo arm just in case it slipped.  Hopefully it will be less of a drag on the servo and the battery. BTW I finished up with E-tronix 17G servo in place of the Century one, I note that is still out of stock.  The story of radio control modelling at the moment.  

 

S

 

 

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