Paul De Tourtoulon Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 1 hour ago, GrumpyGnome said: Nooooooooo. Toto has already had bad experiences with ic - the last thing he needs us to bolt his unfamiliar engine to a bench, and 'see how he gets on'. He has no real experience of starting, running in, or adjusting such an engine. And, in fact, is a way off being able to fly the model in question It's called 'learning experience', how did we get from caves to houses ?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Someone who already had a house said ..... "come and see my current house, I've had loads; I'll help you upgrade your cave safely, and help you understand how a house works" Much better than the family in the next cave, who decided to have a go at building a house on their own. Because they had no experience, they didn't know what was required. It fell down in a storm and injured them. They decided houses are horrible, complicated things, so they still live In a cave. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 You have missed the point, that's what the forum is for, seeking advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Geelhoed Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 2 hours ago, toto said: Thanks Paul ( Geelhoed ) For the info on the engine mount. It could save a lot of faffing around when the time comes. How much of the cowl needs to be cut away to facilitate the engine ? Cheers Toto only the one at the bottom and a small hole at the top to put a screwdriver through if you need to adjust the engine. Without the hood, run in the engine according to the instructions. With the cowl on you will have to adjust a bit. You'll be flying in no time. Install servo just behind the firewall. much better. with a servo tray just behind the firewall. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 30 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said: You have missed the point, that's what the forum is for, seeking advice. If you read totos other thread (First taste of the sky), you'll see he has received lots and lots of advice - often incorrect, misleading, or contradictory. None of it resulted in a satisfactory ic experience........... any advice or comment I give is based on his past experience, and trying to minimise the risk of further disappointment. I'll make no further comment on this topic. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 Hi Paul, Thanks for that. These pointers will be kept for reference for when I come to build the model. That won't be any time soon but its great to have these installation pointers. Much appreciated. The servo positioning looks like a good idea severely shortening the amount of rod travel by moving the servo forward behing the fire wall. Great move. It's also good to see that the cowl maintains it's structural integrity after curring to suit the engine opening. Sometimes you find that you have to cut so much away that it leaves the cowl flimsy and open to more damage. Thanks for posting up. Cheers Toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Channing Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 17 hours ago, toto said: Thanks for posting this up Paul. A couple of questions because this is the first I have ever heard of this. .... so ..... What is the purpose of this ? Does it have to be done ? What happens if its not done ? If its not necessary .... what's the benefits ? These may seem like very naive questions but I have never heard of the term until now. Thanks for your patience for my newbie questions. Toto Toto , your engine will be fine with the pump settings as it is, altering the pop of pressure can make a difference but Ive seen very few people who know how to do do it correctly. Done incorrectly you will have an engine that is an absolute pig at best. The Walbro and Tillotson Carb are very similar and are by design a very simple carb which is very complex internally for the settings. and then you have copy's of the Walbro such as on DLE, and then theirs the reasoning why DA and GP only use original, If you have any issues I can help you on direct message but not on the group chat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Toto, you will find that petrol engines don't throttle like methanol or electrics which are progressive, to help this problem out, set your servo control like this drawing, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted April 18 Author Share Posted April 18 (edited) 26cc RCGF Stinger single cylinder rear exhaust arrived today ..... which ends my brownie points bonanza. Plenty of choice now for whatever I choose to chuck them into. Just need to look into suitable silencers for the new brood. No rush for now though but something to think about. Toto Edited April 18 by toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 If it's a 'pitts' silencer, watch out for cracks, mine didn't last long.🤢 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 'Effective' silencing won't be cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted April 18 Author Share Posted April 18 It will be even dearer if I have a model and an engine that can't take to the air .... It may be more of a must rather than a need. Toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 Your site strict on noise limit Toto ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Learner Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 8 hours ago, toto said: It will be even dearer if I have a model and an engine that can't take to the air .... It may be more of a must rather than a need. Toto This could give you some ideas https://youtu.be/8klnH1vLHbc?si=6Sv_VKACB7nI2cDR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 As far as I can recall, in the 10-30cc bracket, we only have two 'effectively' silenced petrol engines in the club. Both have pipes that cost £150 or so. I was once told that to effectively silence a petrol engine, you'll spend as much on noise reduction as on the engine itself....... probably a slight exaggeration! Personally, I'd wait until the intended home for an engine is determined before shelling out on a solution that may be unsuitable e.g. a nice shiny pipe may be ok on a sports model, but offend you on a scale model.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 (edited) Petrols in my neck of the woods are running large props at low revs and some fancy extra silencers. Not exactly "out of the box". IME, for the same kind of power region, neither a glow 10cc two stroke (on and off a tuned pipe), nor a 15cc glow four stroke, were a problem to get past the magic 82dB, but both were very close to or on the limit. Edited April 19 by Nigel R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 I grafted two stainless steel boat silencers on one of my Dle Ra's, and it was really quiet, like an old properly silenced methanol .60,,, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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