Jason Channing

Toto , your engine will be fine with the pump settings as it is, altering the pop of pressure can make a difference but Ive seen very few people who know how to do do it correctly. Done incorrectly you will have an engine that is an absolute pig at best. The Walbro and Tillotson Carb are very similar and are by design a very simple carb which is very complex internally for the settings. and then you have copy's of the Walbro such as on DLE, and then theirs the reasoning why DA and GP only use original, If you have any issues I can help you on direct message but not on the group chat.

Ours are fine and it is only a potential risk, Still didn't stop us getting the $120 refund, a new bed is on the way and along with the new price of a mini, its nearly free.

Since Bamboo Labs hit the market it has slaughtered the price of second hand Prusas' Market so some good deals on Ebay for these, We have a mixture of Bamboo printers here working night and day and the Mk 3 Prusas' generally dont get used much now, They are not as sturdy as a Prusa but the prints generally work time after time, AS far as plug and play Bamboo are the closest you will get.

That's not true as ATC do not know which aircraft have Winglets added or not. ATC Separation is either based on time or distance and has not changed. And there is nothing to enter on a flight plan saying winglets added or the type of the winglets.

I have several of the Iwata Eclipse and a clone of the Eclipse (selected and made for Airbrushes.com) and I would recommend the eclipse clone as its pretty close to the Iwata ,and would go for suction feed rather than gravity https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_403_1_9_47&products_id=13

Normal pressure from the tank averages out at 7psi although from the factory it can vary up to 9 psi, there's no point it being any higher as the purpose is to deliver the fuel to the regulator, then onto the Carb. a little bit simplified but that's the general gist. Any decent tanks such as Kavan will take 10 psi quite easily and All I ever do is solder on little barbs to stop the tubing coming off. SMC are still trading after it was sold.

Great company and have used them many times and when One item came damaged the refund was quick and dead easy. I admit the item that came damaged a printed tin plate A4 size the packing was hilarious.

Cloud Models have the biggest selection of Obechi and are the company that produce the foam parts for Chris Foss.

Hi Jim. I still use YS on a daily basis, If you need 30% fuel I always have it in stock(I have the EPL for this fuel) however 25% is kinder on the OS plugs and the 20% fuel runs well on the YS although not quite as much torque compared to thje 30%. These days not many people use the YS in the UK, now however the in the USA market its a fairly popular engine used in regular sports models as well. I have several hyde mounts although in my 80 size and less I use a hard mount. 25% is the limit you can buy without a EPL

Very nice build.

if you have a quater scale model and you are going to invest in a gyro than I would suggest investing in a decent gyro such as Powerbox or Cortex as there's a marked difference between the lower end and top end, not snobbery as i use some cheaper ones but in the end they are inferior to the top end ones in characteristics and set up

I just said that, the same as the slow blow fuse would be the problem.

Another company xxxxxx bought in the 9303 which is an American version and not a European version and the software was American with American power outputs, the 9303 was never modified for European use , Very confident that the throttle on your radio is analogue where as the European DSX 9 is digital so straight away one of the main boards is different,

Google 9303,and the other unofficial distributor of JR at the time (not McGregor) the DSX9 is the UK model which has a different power board and has the CE mark

Be careful with the TX as its a USA version and the insurance is not valid using it in the UK, should something happen. I used one till i found out the power output is 1 watt and invalidated my insurance. And thus sold it .

You never said you opened the pack up and resoldered the pack and bypassing the dead cell, you made it sound like you only removed the balance lead.Sounds like a pain to save a few pounds. Second thoughts Ill go with my original post, Having reread the posts, as the posts suggests just removing the balance lead,

Inside the pack the cells are still wired in series whether or not you disconnect the balance lead. Probably the daftest thing Ive read in a long time and the most dangerous.

I used to have a JR 9303 as it was the same tx as the PCm9Mxii but hell of a lot cheaper (not legal in the UK as its the USA version with higher output) The good news is that inside on the main board is a 3amp glass slow blow fuse which normally blows before anything else.

I repaired someone's engine a few years ago at an airshow using a weetabix box when the carburettor gasket failed on a GP 123. Worked perfectly.

It was my son who taught me that when flying towards yourself move the stick to the lower wing as it looks more interesting, its just another take on a Derry turn.

Very quick and easy set up and is on a different planet to the Ender, with the Slicer being very similar to the Prussa one . The noises and vibration tests are all quite normal on initial set up and is a good way to check your hearing on the varying frequency's.

Beat my son and got the Bamboo labs A1 and as he has the AMS lite from his P1P already I get to use this when I need to, Although he has a few Prussa Mk3s' Bamboo Labs are shooting them of the perch pretty damn quickly and the second hand value is dropping quite rapidly on the Prussa'

if you running it for only 10 minutes to heat up your concrete garage, I'm sure the fuel burn cant be that bad, as said before you will not get condensation as the moisture by product is exited via the exhaust, You may well have clouds forming outside your garage but not inside it. Your posts are confusing as you say your the only one that finds them not very good yet you only run the heater for 10 minutes as it gets too hot inside the garage, If its heating up your garage in 10 minutes then I think your on a winner.

The disadvantage is the condensation by product from propane and butane which can be hell of a lot in a cold workshop, where as The diesel heater produces dry air, Using a 12 volt 20 amp power supply works perfectly with no issues and the fuel consumption is pretty low.

Love my Diesel heater, in the past ive had electric heaters in my garage which never moved any heat around and then an inverter heater (Corona 5086) which worked ok but need to be left on for longer periods and now use the Maxspeeding 8kw(debatable if it is ) and works superbly, Also use a 12 volt 20 amp power supply from banggood and the whole set up is very good, lots of heat with no condensation, and the hardest part of the install was making the hole through the brickwork for the exhaust. Also sounds beautiful when its running.