Weston Cougar kit build

[Declan]

Having recently returned to the hobby I've been getting my eye back in so to speak with an XFly Glastar V2 foamie bush plane.  I've also started a long term Brian Taylor FW190 build, this is on a different thread.  

In the meantime I wanted something to get back to more adventurous flying and after searching through the model sites and watching YouTube I've decided on a Weston Cougar kit.  I was considering an Arrows Edge 540 but I did have a Cougar before and I recall it being a great flyer.  I think the article in the November issue of RCME swayed my descision a little.

So I ordered it on Wednesday and it came the day after after a very nice helpful chat with someone at Weston UK.  I've started the wings as per the instructions and here's where I'm at so far.

 

[Engine Doctor]

Didnt realise that Weston were doing the Cougar in a kit form. Its a pity the fuz is square instead of round like the original. 

What are the fits like ?

[Declan]

So far the fits seem fine.  I've only done what you can see in the picture.  Once I have it all tacked with CA I'll go over all the joints with the Delux Materials Super Phatic glue let that cure and give it a nice sand all over before sheeting.  I did the usual sanding of the mating surfaces prior to assembly.  The wing seems to have gone together nice and straight and I had no problems aligning it with my straight line and perpendicular marks.  The ribs sat vertical in the cross spar nicely.  There is a spcing jig to use which is handy.

Although not called for in the instructions I did put the metal reinforcing spar in place before glueing, again that went in very easily.

[Declan]

Finished the bare skeleton for the wings.  I'm going to stop here with the wings and start on the fuselage.  Reading the build in the RCME Ian clamps the wings to the fuselage before setting the final postion of the wing retaining plates which seems like a good idea.  This should mean a nice snug fit when completed.

[Declan]

I've tacked the fuselage together using CA.  Once the front box section was assembled I set the middle lower fuselage stringer straight on my workbench and pinned this down.  I then dry assembled the rear formers for the fuselage and set the dry assembly down on the pinned stringer.  After lining up the front of the fuselage on my straight line and making sure the centre line of the firewall was straight and perpendicular with my line I tacked with CA.

I'm still wating for some Super Phatic to arrive and I'll go over all the joints with this for belt and braces glueing on both the fuselage and wings.  Once this has set I can then give all my work a good sanding where needed.

The fit has been ok so far.  The only error I've encountered was incorrect locating lugs on F6.  This was an easy remedy though.  The fuselase is a bit 'square' as mentioned by Engine Doctor but I think after the large wings are on it will not be too noticeable.  It's a similar look to the Max Thrus Riot from a fuselage point of view.

[Declan]

Storm Daragh has meant lots of time on the build this last couple of days.  Making good progress with the wings nearly ready for sanding and covering.  I've covered all the control surfaces using the heat shrink film from 4Max models.  I found this to be very easy to use and I'm very pleased with the outcome.  

[Engine Doctor]

Looking good👍would be interesting to see it suitability to a IC conversion for us Piston heads .

Edited December 8, 2024 by Engine Doctor

[Nigel R]

Build looks good, seems like it is really quick to get together.

 

Looks like wings are plug on jobs? Are the fuse sides liteply?

 

I could use a new funfly in the hangar... Maybe an SC/ASP .36 for power, now they're back in production?

[Engine Doctor]

Its good to have a new kit available and see Cougars in different colour schemes , a bit like the early one . Hope Weston do well with them .

[Declan]

This one is going to be electric.  The motor, and wooden prop are for 4Max models and they look impressive.  I want something I can fly in the site close to me with no noise restrictions. 

The fuselage is roomy looks easy to convert/change between IC and electric so I may at some point in the future put a little OS30 into it.  I did have one before with the same OS engine and a tuned pipe which was a great flyer.  

It's been relatively quick but I have put a few steady hours into it this last few days.  

 

 

[Declan]

8 hours ago, Nigel R said:

Build looks good, seems like it is really quick to get together.

 

Looks like wings are plug on jobs? Are the fuse sides liteply?

 

I could use a new funfly in the hangar... Maybe an SC/ASP .36 for power, now they're back in production?

 The wings are plug on over the metal spar with one central locking bolt.  There are also some locating dowels.  The fuselage sides are indeed light ply.  It all seems quite sturdy.  I've used Super Phatic for the build after tacking initially with CA.

[Declan]

Used my new Z benders for the elevator pushrod assembly.  Game changer.

😃

 

[Engine Doctor]

Is the tail plane glued as well as screwed into place ?

Edited December 10, 2024 by Engine Doctor

[Declan]

1 hour ago, Engine Doctor said:

Is the tail plane glued as well as screwed into place ?

Yes, glued with Super Phatic glue.  I did have it clamped but the screws helped to hold it in place while the glue was setting.  Also, although it's not likely to happen, they do give me some peace of mind if there was a major adhesive failure, might just be enough to land with.

[Declan]

Closed loop system installed.  First time I've done this.  The servo tester makes installing the servos and control rods much easier than using the radio.

 

 

[Chris Walby]

IMO with the performance of the Cougar epoxy would have been more appropriate for fixing the horizontal stabiliser to the fuselage. If the glue fails then I would expect it to be very quick and catastrophic due to the size of the control surfaces.

 

I thought and sure I have seen the instructions that say the loose end of the wire should be looped through ferrule to reduce the chances of it pulling through + due to the significant movement on the rudder I would have thought the wire will work its way through the soft plastic of the control horn (normally its the same arrangement as you have done at the servo end.

 

One of the designers was looking at my Cougar and suggested that I cross the rudder wires for a bit more rudder travel...He was right as at full deflection the snap roll was very quick! 

[Declan]

8 minutes ago, Chris Walby said:

IMO with the performance of the Cougar epoxy would have been more appropriate for fixing the horizontal stabiliser to the fuselage. If the glue fails then I would expect it to be very quick and catastrophic due to the size of the control surfaces.

 

I thought and sure I have seen the instructions that say the loose end of the wire should be looped through ferrule to reduce the chances of it pulling through + due to the significant movement on the rudder I would have thought the wire will work its way through the soft plastic of the control horn (normally its the same arrangement as you have done at the servo end.

 

One of the designers was looking at my Cougar and suggested that I cross the rudder wires for a bit more rudder travel...He was right as at full deflection the snap roll was very quick! 

 

Time will tell on the tailplane fixing.  I understand your point with regard to the rear closed loop fixing.  I will be able to monitor this so again, we'll see.  It was however, done as outlined in the instructions from the manufacturer. 

Edited December 10, 2024 by Declan

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

I believe the danger of your crimp method is that it relies on friction between the aluminium and the wires and is likely to slip. 

The 3 pass method crimps the wire strands against each other, dramatically reducing any tendency to slip. 
 

 

This shows what Chris described above. I was lucky enough to acquire some handy crimpers from work which make a neat job but side cutters applied 3 or 4 times spaced side by side work well. 

[Chris Walby]

Girl, 13, dies after being hit on head by remote-controlled model plane

A 13-year-old girl has died after being struck on the head by a remote-controlled model plane while out for a walk with her mother.

Tara Lipscombe, from Dartford, Kent, was on Dartford Heath on Tuesday afternoon when the Acrowot petrol-powered plane apparently flew out of control and hit her, causing severe injuries.

 

She was taken unconscious to Darent Valley hospital by the Kent air ambulance, but died that evening. A postmortem examination is to take place today.

A spokeswoman for the Kent air ambulance trust said: "It took three minutes to get her to hospital. Two paramedics treated her en route."

The operator of the plane, a 55-year-old man from south London, was spoken to by police, who are investigating the incident.

 

My understanding was that the cause of loss of control was due to the horizontal stabiliser become detached from the fuselage. I am not being critical, just trying to give advice to prevent a reoccurrence.

[Learner]

9 minutes ago, Chris Walby said:

 

While I appreciate the point your trying to make, I don't think this sort of post helps the hobby at all!!

Edited December 10, 2024 by Learner

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

In case any more recent model flyers get the wrong idea, this incident was at least 20 years ago.  Time has no significance on the message though.  
 

The pilot was inexperienced and flying in a public space with no control over other users and as far as I can recall, had painted the model components before gluing the tailplane onto the fuselage of his kit built model.  It separated in flight with fatal consequences. 

[Don Fry]

My memory says that one was caused by the pilot glueing tail plane to fuselage, and leaving the film covering in place. Lousy surfaces to glue. The case in point, aircraft that size I would use a white glue and screw/clamp while it dries. The strength of the joint is the shear point of the balsa surface. 

12 minutes ago, Learner said:

While I appreciate the point your trying to make, I don't think this sort of post helps the hobby at all!!

 

Learner, this hobby is dangerous, one of the principal uses of this forum is to increase our knowledge base. 

[Learner]

25 minutes ago, Don Fry said:

 

 

Learner, this hobby is dangerous, one of the principal uses of this forum is to increase our knowledge base. 

Suit yourself, I would've thought printing old news in bold, on an open forum for anyone to see wasn't the best idea, but obviously I'm wrong.

[Declan]

Lol, I only went to work yesterday evening after posting some pics and I come back today to find quite a safety discussion. So as I started this thread I will say that I posted the pics just in case anyone was interested in the build or the model itself.  I'm not advertising that this is the way the model must be built but this is how I'm building it. 

I would argue for the sake of forum etiquette that 'helpful' comments on someone else's build post should be considered very carefully first.  If someone, and I've done this myself recently, asks for help on a post then feel free to offer any wisdom you have from your expereinces.  If no advice or wisdom is requested then maybe don't be over critical.  Having said that I have put these pictures out to the public on a forum so it would be foolish of me to not expect any form of reply or advice.  I don't agree with everything that was put on this thread but I was happy to politely reply without disagreeing and move on.  However, as the comments have kept coming I'm going to reply.

 

I've spent most of my working life in the building industry as a tradesman.  I have literally glued/soldered/screwed/crimped/nailed thousands of things together in a fashion for them not to fall apart at the fist sign of bad weather or human use.   I may not be as experienced a modeller as others but I do know how to stick stuff together.

 

Chris Walby I do not agree with your comment on the epoxy to the tailplane.  I would argue that Super Phatic is excellent due to its pentrating properties as stated by Delux Materials.  We are talking about a fairly flimsy bit of balsa attached to ply.  The balsa itself is the weak point.  I also certainly don't think for a moment that what I am building is going to be a danger to the general public. 

Also, your quoting the Cougar instructions from your memory.  I have them in front of me and I've made up the closed loop system as per the instructions.  That's not to say a better way is not out there but if this method is prescribed by the manufacturer then surely it must be at least adequate for the job.  The rudder already has 60 degrees of deflection, probably enough.  The guides for the closed loop system are fed through pre drilled holes in the formers along each side.  You cannot cross the wires if you are using the guides.

 

Martin Harris I do not agree with your crimping comment either.  Crimping works by one of the materials being soft enough to be deformed against the other harder material.  The pull cable wires do not deform.  If the the softer crimped material fails for any reason then the joint will come apart irrespective of how many times the cable is passed through the crimp.  I would also argue that by over filling the crimp with extra strands you are preventing the crimp material from getting a proper grip on each of the cables.  In my appliction all sides of both ends of the cable are gripped by the softer crimp material giving it the maximum chance of holding the cables.  This is what I believe based on my experience with crimping but I'd be keen to see something done in a laboratory to test the theory.  If I'm wrong, then I'm wrong.  I don't have a problem with that.

 

Is this hobby inherenatly dangerous, no it is not.  There can be bad ouctomes for sure and people have died but in the main it is safe with reasonably applied common sense.   I used to do a lot of scuba diving but cannot now due to a medical condition, hence my return to the hobby.  Scuba diving is dangerous, you can kill yourself very easily, especially with mixed gas technical diving. 

 

Lastly, I'm returning to the hobby and I'm old enough not to be precious about what anyone says about what I've built or my building abilities.  I'm not offended or miffed at comments aimed at my build, I just don't agree with what you have said.  I do think that it is a very fine line between help and criticism and surely we want as many people posting and getting excited about the hobby.   I was genuinely excited about building this model and posting the pictures but I must admit this has dented my happiness with regards to the forum.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Well, Declan I for one am glad you have taken the trouble to document your build. Please do keep on and don't be disheartened, as I am sure there are many like me who find it enjoyable to read. You will realise that there is more than one way to skin a cat and we veterans have our favourite ways of doing things, but that doesn't make what you are doing wrong.  As I recall the Cougar is a smallish model and sometimes others' suggestions can over-engineer what is outlined/intended in the manual. Your non-model background will, I am sure,  tell you straight away whether something you are doing is dangerous in your model build. 👍