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Gold connectors.


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I have wondered for a few years what the function is of the hole in the side of the 'solder socket' on some 3.5 and 4 mm gold connectors?
 
If the metal was thicker I suppose it could accomodate a screw, but it is too thin for that and normally what happens is that the molten solder comes out of the hole. This makes it difficult to make a neat job and to slip the heat shrink over.
 
It also makes the process take twice as long as you sometimes have to clean the excess solder off.
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Richard,
I use the hole for inserting the point of the soldering iron while I'm heating the bucket - works really well. Insert iron, heat a while, fill bucket with solder (well, not fully obviously) remove the soldering iron at the same time as positioning the tinned wire. Works beautifully every time and the rounded bottom of the bucket helps centre the wire as you position it in.
I learnt this from a YouTube vid on how to solder 4mm gold connectors. The video was made in india or pakistan but it was brilliant and having watched it once I never ever had a problem getting a really excellent joint, nicely centred on the wire.
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Hi Richard,
Bizarrely, the solder doesn't come out unless you are peculiarly ham-fisted when you position the wire in the connector. When this has happened to me, there is a small bulge of solder where the hole is and I've just filed it off.
Might be time to put a pointy iron on the Christmas list... 
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Andy's comment reminded me of my pal who, many years ago when I was nobbut a lad,  melted down some lead to make fishing weights. He'd drilled a wooden block out with holes the right size for his new weights then, (and this was the daft bit), he washed the sawdust out of the block.
When he poured the molted lead into the holes the residual water turned to steam and he ended up splattering the kitchen ceiling with molten lead. It was blinking lucky he didn't have his head over the block at the time! No common sense.
He was also the one who set fire to my bedroom when we were making fireworks - we were using a pestle and mortar to grind the ingredients so to speed everything up he mixed all the ingredients BEFORE he put them into the mortar. Needless to say it all went off and when it did he threw the thing which landed on my bed.......
He's now a GP. 
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  • 1 year later...

Oops - did a posting and lost it, so try again. I got fed up trying to solder up 4mm connectors with holes in the bucket. I think they're to act as a "bolt" and lock the soldered joint together.
I did a piece on this in Hints and Tips, but here it is again. Cut a piece of kitchen ali foil 20mm by 10mm and wrap this tightly round the bucket part of the connor (covering the hole !!) Grip the wrapped connector in a clothes peg, make sure the peg's secured, fill the bucket with solder then insert the pre-tinned wire.
 
Works every time and nothing to file off afterwards.
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Blimey, what a fuss!
 
Drill holes in a bit of wood to accommodate three bullets - that's enough for a motor - and you can use it time and again.
 
Just stick the flat or the side of the point against the hole and melt enough solder into the top until you have a concave meniscus. You don't need to have it running out of the hole!
 
Do a batch of as many as you need.

Hold the tinned wire above the bullet, reheat the bullet and as the solder flows ease the wire into it. Take away the heat, hold the wire for a couple of seconds and the job's done......

Pete
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Well I think I'm pretty good at soldering having been an electronics engineer before I retired.
 
But still find getting the perfet joint on a 'Deans' plug difficult especialy with the large diamiter wire on 6S batteries! even with an 80 watt iron!
 
I know what you are going to say, why use a 'Deans' Well it's like everthing else I've carried on with what I started with.
 
My Watt meters, chargers, ESC are all geared up for 'Deans' connectors.
 
JC
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For me bullet connectors are easy peasy. If a bit of solder comes out the whole who cares? It gets covered my heatshrink anyway. Deans and XT60's are a bit tricker despite a 100W soldering iron.... Persistance is the key. I've seen the ali foil trick to seal the bucket hole but really don't understand why it's a problem
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So this old one has emerged from the depths !
I think I should originally have expanded on this:-
 
 
Some of the heatshrink that I have is a very tight fit over the connector, so tight that I can not slip it over until the metal has cooled down completely because it would cause the tubing to shrink prematurely.
 
Any blob of solder on the side or spilled, completely stops the sleeve from sliding over.
 
So I prefer a connector without the hole on the side.
 
Obviously some of you quite understandably, use different tools, materials and techniques.
 
 
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Depending on source, some of mine have holes, some have "full bucket" although shallow, some have deep full bucket, and some have a half bucket.
Whichever type is used, any excess solder that is expended is simply ground off with a dremel sanding drum, which makes the fitting of the heatshrink tube a doddle.
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Perhaps the connectors were designed for crimping; I'm not familiar with the type being discussed though. Barrel type crimp connectors have a hole in the side to enable the operator or quality man to check that the wire is deep enough inside the barrel when it's crimped, if you don't see any wire through the hole, the crimp is considered bad.
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That's exactly what it's for Martyn, in theory to give the connector good strength and support, the cables insulation should butt up against the barrel of the connector. To ensure the cables go to the end of the connector barrel with the insulation butted against it, they provide an inspection hole at the end.
 
I did a Precision Termination Testing (PTT) course many years ago at RAF Sealand, possibly the dullest course I've ever done but worth it for the nights out in Chester
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