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Fired up the beast again and have some figures. APC 17x8 - 8700rpm Master classic 18x8 - 7600rpm APC 20x8 - 6800rpm. Pretty happy with this. The classic master performs very poorly, but the other two are running well and are in line with the other 200's we offer. Also, i know its glow supported but the idle is just silly. I am also quite enjoying using the holes for inspecting the parts. Very handy. You can even see the cams in the back ?

My F86 is based on a Canadair CL-13B Sabre Mk.6, N8686F. The plane was used by Boeing as a chase plane and flew alongside the first 747 flight in February 1969. As this has been my first PSSA build, I followed everybody’s build blog’s and found all your detailed explanations and photos really helpful, Thank you. Its covered in glass cloth & sprayed with acrylic paint. Weight is 5lb with 100g in the nose to balance. 3d printed pilot from Andy Meade & homemade seat. It’s just 2 channel with Ailerons & Elevator.

I went to Ivinghoe today for some slope soaring. I had arranged to meet a friend there and when I arrived there was some chaps already flying from the car park slope. By coincidence these were chaps from Essex whom we'd met the last time we were at the Beacon. My friend arrived and we had a few flights from the car park slope. I had a recently built NCFM M60 and my buddy had a Wildthing and a Lidl conversion. The lift was a bit variable so we decided to bite the bullet and trek to the top of the Beacon. My ticker doesn't always want to do the same things as me so climbs like that mean I have to stop half-way up to get my breath back. Anyway, the breeze at the top gave us great lift on the north face. I'd only managed to ascertain the right CG and throws the last time I flew the M60 so, having adjusted the CG at home, this was my first opportunity to see what it could do. I was having to learn what I could do with it too. Straight off it flew straight out, gained height and, with just one click of down to trim, I started exploring the envelope. A touch of down had it instantly speeding up and easing off had it climbing like a homesick angel so then I started doing loops, rolls and speed runs. At one point I pushed out from the slope to see how far out the lift was and it climbed steadily in front of me then I saw it just waggle a tiny bit so I started circling and, as I hoped, it thermalled away above and behind me to speck-out point. This gave me good height to do a good series of high speed aerobatics before landing for a cuppa. Brilliant. All the other chaps had great flights too with a good variety of models. We saw a Radian being flown further along the ridge and he came and joined us. I suddenly realised he was keeping it inverted while he sat relaxed on the grass, not bad for a rudder/elevator model. Several day-trippers enjoyed watching and asked quite a few questions. There was plenty of banter and one of the chaps flying was a magician and kept a couple of us amused with a very impressive display of sleight of hand. My buddy and I left and got back to the car park in time to get an ice cream from the van. What a wonderful day with great friends and what a wonderful hobby, I'm still smiling.?

First flight on my Smith Mini plane today, bought it second hand and it was obviously built quite a few years ago and had already been converted to electric. I have put a 900kv motor in it on a 3300 4s pack and 11x8.5 APC e prop, performance is good but flight times are only 4 mins on this set up. Handled this breezy conditions very nicely and despite being a portly 6 lbs 2oz it slows up nicely when landing.

Well the Mini Astro Hog got her long awaited Post 2020 Dark Nights Fix-Up electric maiden today. I'm pleased to say that the model kept all of the impeccable manners in the air that she exhibited in her glow inclination and is a joy to fly. The Bowden Cable replacement of the floppy elevator snake was so successful that the wee model is capable of doing push-ups on the ground with judicious application of down elevator - I think I'd forgotten to put the nylon tail skid back on! I think that there might be an in-flight picture or two to come, but my attempts at a hatcam video were not a great success, the MiniAstroHog coming out very mini indeed -a mere dot -and the dizzy high angle view of the horizon doesn't make for comfortable viewing.

Nearly there. First coat of the very pale green/blue of the prototype. Under natural light it looks rather greener! The blemish on the upper rear fuselage just aft of the wing is a moth that settled as I was taking the picture! Actually there is still quite a bit to do.

The RX has to be suitably powered to bind. If the ESC has BEC its throttle connection also caries a regulated 5V supply. To bind. Insert the bind plug in the RX bind port. Connect power to the RX first, most likely it will show a rapidly flashing LED, then holding the Trainer switch on, switch on DX6i. After a few seconds the LED will stop flashing and remain permanently on (if there are any servo connected they will also center) and the bind is complete. If the LED remains flashing or goes out the bind has failed. Sart again from the beginning. If the bind has been successful release the Trainer switch, remove the power from the RX and then switch off the DX6i. Remove the bind plug from the Rx. Sometimes the bind fails if the TX is too close to the RX. Keep about 2M away.

No downside to Soutnern Fuels. H9nest good fuel at sensible prices. You can collect from Daves House by arrangement.

Very neat Martin . I also made an installation on my laser 200v a year ago using SS conduit piping and concentrical sized K&S tubes as end adaptors. The two pipes were clamped to the firewall using thin aluminium straps with high temperature silicone inside to allowing slight movement of the pipe as the engine cycles in order to prevent future pipe cracks. Cans were not used as my site is not noise sensitive and the relatively small diameter and length of the pipe prevents the sound being too loud

Mick Reeves still sells flexi pipe - I bought some a week or so ago for my Saito twin.

Failed first time, but hope you get the pictures now.

Keith, the motor has been wet. Give it another run, flat out, if you run it with a biggish prop, do it with a smallish prop, to get it good and hot, to make sure no water remains. Glad it’s sorted.

Great video well done all. Having been part of a 5 ship display team, I know how difficult it is. Could have done without the music though!.

Thanks for your responses and report on my findings. Engine mounted sideways as all my other three AX are, removed engine and took head and back plate and amazed to see water droplets in the various areas including the domed area of the head. The droplets were the size of a pin head so full clean of crankcase, head, cylinder etc rebuild. Go through the normal start up proceedure and bingo lovely smooth tick over and straight up to full power. Looks like need to check my storage fuel bottles etc.

Other than hydraulic locking, the other cause that springs to mind is ignition timing. This is controlled by the glow plug (and the fuel) so that would be an easy check...maybe the element has distorted or you're using a higher voltage than usual? Have you changed fuel type? I did have dealings with a Magnum 90 which was a prop thrower and the easiest way to get this started was to apply the starter and connect the glow while it was spinning - easy enough as it was on a large trainer that I was instructing on (the only pupil I've ever had turn up with a 90!) so no shortage of hands. No doubt a reverse flick would have worked too.

Proper woodwork! ? Watching with interest Gary...

For most jobs I now use Ronseal WooFill. It's a two pack ,sets very quickly, sands easily , is strong,a comes in white or biege colours. A little heavier but good for small quick filling jobs enabling you tocrack on and not wait ages for filler to set. Works well on most foams but not polystyrene foam . Stores OK provided lid is properly fitted will keep a couple of years. Only mix what you can use as working time varies from 5 to 10 min depending on temperature.

That under carriage is spot on, I was thinking of making a set myself with some resin I have left. I made a vac former and managed to make a decent canopy (must post the pics up), and am currently making a balsa engine cowl that I'll use as a plug to vac form too. I bought some clear vac forming sheet, If the cowl comes out ok, I may invest in some white plastic. Good to see that the mini jazz is still about! I'm currently refurbishing an old electric one I had in the loft for several years!

I've just completed the ARUP today ,Fri .the13th .does this auger well.!! Here is the three peg fixing of the stub to the wing proper I've shown the cockpit ,the false floor with pilot and the servo layout . It's powered by an O.S.46 FX. It will now wait until everything is back to normal including the weather for the maiden flight . It has been an interesting build and it was nice to try something different . This it not an easy model to build and a bit of previous building would be an advantage . There are a few errors in the formers and some redundant parts . Studying the plan really well and drawing centre lines to aid alignment is thoroughly recommended . I hope the blog will be of some use to prospective builders . I'm signing off on the blog now .Take care and stay well . Keith .

Right you are, young man! No splitter fairings -- my sloth doth reigneth -- there is a method to my madness! Meanwhile, here's an A-4B prang aboard the USS Great Orme. Excellent reference on shapes and details! ps -- Maybe it thinks it is a PSS model or something, abusing Mr. Meade's custom 3D-printed refueling nozzle and all?