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Ha, yes I agree not a lot of Lidl left, but the nose saves the bother and weight of building a nose and in some ways is less complicated. Plus more aerodynamic maybe. I designed it as I went along and no doubt it would have been better if I could have kept wiring out of the air duct. I taped the servo wires to the foamboard, and tried to route with that in mind, but it was difficult to avoid as all wires and the 3 wires from the EDF have to cross the airflow at some point to get to the centre of the fusi and the rx and battery. I doubt it will affect the thrust, if I dare use that word on a baby edf! It was a design as you go job, Mk2 will be better assuming this flies well! Just under 500 gms with a 1.3 mA 3 s lipo.

Another good session today on the A-10... The recently glassed nose section was cut back with medium paper and has had 2 good coats of filler primer with a focussed sanding in-between after a 24hr wait for it to fully harden. Surface is looking pretty good, just a few low spots still to address... In between waiting for the primer to harden each time round I've done a bit more glassing - tailplane lower surface this time and I've added some resin to the lite-ply end caps on the elevators and rudders - areas that dont naturally receive glass but still need to be painted. I'll soon have all these parts in primer too now I hope.

The original article in September's issue

Yes, The apple cheeks will work well. Just make sure that there is an outlet for the air as well. The conversion for Destiny is easy. The motor is mounted on stand offs on the fire wall. The battery hatch is simply cut from the existing cowl. When the time comes I will photograph the the nose modifications. I converted mine very quickly

My name is Mark, and I am a LiPo abuser. When I get a new plane/pack, I have a couple of flights to see where I should set my flight timer, then pretty much ignore the packs after that.... I shove them on my chargers until they beep, them fly until my timer says stop, then take them home. Then repeat. I only check them if they start to obviously deteriorate or become puffed. I don't lose many packs even abusing them this way. But, I don't have any packs above 4S, and none of my planes need optimal performance, or push the packs overly hard. My little edf packs are probably the hardest worked but they have lasted hundreds of cycles - so far.

Hi Ernie, My Falcon was completed late in 2021, and is powered by an OS56a four stroke, with a 14x4 prop. It takes off in a few feet at little more than half throttle, and does most of the flights at 1/3 throttle. Full throttle is used only occasionally, for an odd (very odd!) loop or roll. No need to overpower it! Steve.

Not E******* Early Bird, because It just has to potter around just before dusk, with a sound to dream off, and a fine trail of smoke. Even better if it smells of castor oil, but I suppose thats asking too much ernie

For comparison, nothing replaces using a DVM to check - otherwise you’re subject to the vagaries of mass produced chargers. I spent some time calibrating my ISDT charger (it offers this facility) to ensure that it actually balanced packs correctly and although close, it did need a little adjustment. Subsequent checks have indicated that the calibration has remained valid.

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We all want to know what our packs are doing Bas, And that we have been sold the best, but at some point store them until you use them. Not 6 cell in my case, but am certain I tested the life out of one 3 cell pack in the past. I never quite got 100% and only succeeded in going lower and lower over the season. The number of cycles I did, I am sure added to its demise.

Cuban8, Your club sounds much like ours (though we never exceeded about 65 members) with the pattern of a few members who need a gentle nudge to remind them to pay etc. Like you I find that the membership portal is a definte positive as far as membership administration is concerned. Just over half of our members pay their BMFA / CAA through the club, of the rest about 50 / 50 pay through other clubs or individually as country members. Five days into January and by using the portal, I am able to confirm that all of our paid-up members have also paid their BMFA subs. Brian.

No right or wrong way to do it if it works for you! At one stage some ten or fifteen years ago when my club maxed out at almost 150 members, it was best for us to process everyone's BMFA so there was very little to do in the way of dealing with uninsured members and reminders etc. Quite a bit of work to administer the then paper based system but even so, we had everyone who intended to keep their membership all paid up and insured by the end of January - maybe one or two regular stragglers who came through a bit later. I suppose smaller and possibly more close knit clubs could rely on their members to sort their own BMFA without too much trouble if it was preferred. I have to say that the membership portal and in particular the 'Bulk Renew' facility has been a game changer in terms of simplifying things and having access to members' records e.g BMFA status if renewing via a different club - I think our members appreciate what the club does for them as it's another thing that doesn't have to be thought about too much with all that's going on at the moment. We've encouraged the take up of bank transfer payments over the last few years and that is the way 3/4 of our members pay now. All but three members are web connected for emails etc so I just print off their insurance certificates and pop them in the snail mail. The comment about clubs delaying payments and BMFA members of several clubs having problems joining without proof of BMFA needn't be an issue IMHO. If the person involved pays their subs via a club before the end of the bulk renew period i.e end of December, then that person's BMFA status will be instantly updated. Leaving it until after January 1st I can see might introduce a short dely but this can be avoided by renewing early as stated.

within reason clicks over TDC are normal as the tolerances stack up. You need clearance around all the parts (big and little end, gudgeon pin in the piston) and all you are feeling is these 3 collapsing one way, and then expanding again the other way. Nothing to worry about

Dont do that! If you leave the clearance wide the rocker will slam into the valve and you will peen it over. You may also break the rocker with the repeated impact causing fatigue, and you risk the pushrod jumping out of its location and jamming the valve open. This is all bad, and expensive to fix. On the exhaust issue, see if someone can make you a header that will fit the engine and is threaded on the other end for OS/ASP style exhausts. I need to have a go at this on my 155 as the stock header snapped off. If i get time i might be able to make 2 if you want one, but i cant say when i am going to get around to doing the work so you might not want to wait for me.

It's David and Goliath,,, "seconds away",,,,,?

Ha! Found another job that wasn't on the list. Some restraints to prevent the contents of the task bay going walkabout: And another job not on the list, getting the power switch mounted: Added treblers to the wing saddle, too. Other jobs not on the list include the tail wheel mount, fuel proofing the tank bay, figuring out the rx install... 80% done... 80% remaining...

In my opinion:- For ESC cooling, I would open up the hole the motor wires come though (perhaps following the profile of the lower edge of the former) assuming there will be plenty or air coming into the cowl to find your vent hole. You will also require a hot air outlet, so maybe leave a gap (about 3/8" 5mm) at the rear of the cover that will fit over the ESC aperture. Leave the ESC loose, don't strap it down. This will allow cooling air all round the ESC to aid cooling.

Refurbished a couple of Merco carbs today need a couple of needle valves made,knurling not that good, but it will do.also did a bit more on the marine to aero conversion MDS 46