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So here is this evening's little tutorial . (I am good to you chaps are'nt I ?) For this little exercise, you will need a white chalk and a black chalk . (art shop ) . We are going to make out flat plate tail surfaces look much more sophisticated than they are . You may have seen top notch modellers , applying tiny ribs to their elevators and rudders and carefully ironing on fabric type tapes to gives the impression of fabric , open structure moving surfaces . This is dead accurate . But can you really see it ? Well here is the quick option . I decided that rib spacings would be about the width of my ruler ....(handy eh?) Then I draw on the rib locations very lightly with my white pen (you could just use a pencil ). I decide which way my fictitious sun is coming from and then place a piece of masking tape on the line . By rubbing the black chalk in circles on the tape I create a pile of little black specs . With my middle finger I start a circular motion that now is half on and half off the tape . This results in darker black in the middle and lighter toward the edge . Peal the tape off and you have a shadow that suggests a dip in fabric as it would between ribs . You can emphasize this by doing the other side of each semi circle in white chalk . That side would catch the light . It is important , that both elevators have "light " coming from the same side . The camera makes these look a bit over the top . In real life they look correct . Many times , people have reached out to touch the ribs and then laughed ! Finally I went mad with the silver wear and tear . The pilots used to throw their parachutes on this side of the tail complete with all the buckles . That combined with grit from props made the tail plane a sorry sight .

Evening all! Monaco this weekend and we've had P1 and P2 today. So before going any further I'll issue the customary reminder; Don't forget your predictions! LeClerc has headed both practice sessions, and Perez has been the faster of the Red Bulls, with Ferrari taking 1 & 3 in P1 and RB taking 2 & 4. P2 saw both Ferraris ahead of both RBs. Norris has posted 5th fastest in both sessions. Russell has again posted the best times for Mercedes, 8th in P1 and 6th in P2 with Hamilton being well adrift... Qualifying is agin at 3pm UK tim on Saturday, with the race at 2pm on Sunday. Good luck everybody!

Looking good Adrian, usual good work. ?

Next job will be to centre the servo arms and fit the prop. I will start of with a 20x10 wooden electric prop sourced from 4-Max. There is a spinner provided which looks quite good and I will cover that next. CoG is also to be assessed.

A few more photos showing the initial steps of the wing centre panel. Please note that the photos are for illustration purposes only, prior to the actual assembly taking place.

Added some more decoration. Moved CoG back by 25mm so should not need so much up trim but still suspicious of my tail incidence. Weighs circa 1kg, flew with 300g ballast added and weight fine for our hills. Will take max 550g ballast. Will take it up hill on Sunday weather permitting ?

Looking good!

Has anyone noticed the echo in hear ?

I like the HobbyWing ones too, pleased to hear that you can still get them (mine are all Giant Cod era!) I really dont like the 'continuous training' feature of most modern escs - if you momentarily flick the throttle cut, that becomes the new low throttle value, and releasing throttle cut will actually start the motor spinning slowly. All my old HobbyWing escs retain their original calibration values regardless of subsequent inputs ?

I'm having so much fun with this beaten up Spitfire that I'm going to force feed you with some more pictures till you start having a go at it !? You really can just muck about because most of what I'm using is water soluble , so you can immediately delete it . So - no excuse chaps . Now, I do appreciate that the level of wear is a matter of taste . On these pictures you can see the neat little blisters just above the exhaust stacks on the cowl . They don't actually exist .... All I do is cut a tear drop negative with masking tape then rub black chalk into the bottom half and white into the top half . You can emphasize the bottom curve with a black pen only its lowest perimeter . The next thing I wanted to share is the 3mm Letra set letters for the "100 Octane " . A whole sheet costs £6 on amazon and gives us the same detail that you see on the very best Artfs . They just rub on with a pencil .

I don't think it will as the lowest part (s) are the exhaust stubs, you just need to keep an eye on the first (rear stub) for drips. Of course this assumes that you ar Regarding the length of the pressure pipe, the length that we are talking about won't make any difference.

I don't think it will as the lowest part (s) are the exhaust stubs, you just need to keep an eye on the first (rear stub) for drips. Regarding the length of the pressure pipe, the length that we are talking about won't make any difference.

That is the same set up as the Laser in my Chipmunk, no use for a Saito. The Saito does need pressure. Ron has pipped me to a solution

Looking at your earlier photos, the pressure nipple is at the back of the stack, above the exhaust ports? If fuel spills into the stack then it will drain out from the exhausts showing that the tank is full. Alternatively you could run the (clear) vent pipe around the front of the engine, within sight when viewing through the air intake hole in the chin of the cowl.

Hi Danny on my laser 80 I ran breather pipe to front when tank is full it runs out you can connect apiece of temporary pipe and catch it in a pot. Also the air forced into pipe will cause a small vacuum in tank . Dave B.

Conversely, any angular servo movement due to the flexible mounts (I would hope my airframe mounts don't deflect to any meaningful degree!) will be less in the unconventional direction. While we're on the subject of flexible mountings, how many people put the top hats in the wrong way? Virtually every second hand model I've had has them the wrong way up, which destroys the designed pre-loading of the rubber grommets by allowing the tube of the top hat to dig in to the bearer - for avoidance of doubt, the rim of the top hat is NOT designed to fit under the screw head!

Thats the plan. Just a matter of finding the time to get them all online with everything else I currently have on my to do list.

FrSky Neuron for me. Remarkably small and light, and if you have the right gear to access it, they have a number of telemetry measures built in such as current and voltage sensing, RPM and ESC temperature. However, the thing I like the most is the ability to limit the maximum current. You can see from the picture of the 60a version lead size just how small it is.

So the red is on, had to resort to Tamiya acrylic. Not to worry Klass Kote clear will go over the red to fuel proof things and give it an even sheen. Cheers Danny

We had to cajole a few members, there were several emails and messenger group reminders in the days running up to the event but, importantly, it got a group of us together on a wet, overcast day when few would have ordinarily made the effort. That everyone enjoyed themselves, saw people they’d not seen for a while and flew hopefully reminded them of the social and community benefits being a club member brings. Understandably some seem to have forgotten about this over the last few years. It’s the kind of activity the BMFA should really focus on in the coming years. Here’s a thought. Off topic I know but why can’t my club form a team for the Payload Challenge this year? Ok, I know it’s only for university teams but why isn’t there a club Payload competition? ?

The Fairey Albacore certainly has dihedral but not that much.?