Nigel Dell

Then it is perfect for what you want it for Steve, enjoy!

I am in the process of putting another one together, shouldn’t have sold the previous one! It is much like putting together the Longshot, a little fiddly but you end up with a lightweight model that goes up in a sniff of lift it is not just for light conditions either it will handle normal uk conditions but not the most comfortable in windy conditions, but that is just me and I have heavier models for that. My first model had a hacker A10 geared motor but the new one has a bigger out runner, have to cut more off the nose and use a bigger spinner, the hacker was extremely good but not really needed in this model, keep it simple is best.

Years ago I had a K&A Mig 15, as I remember it didn’t have full sized plans but instruction sheets you can contact K&A for a file of the instructions would be my suggestion, they were always very pleasant to deal with. kamodels.com

Auri tyro Don’t be so hard on yourself it happens to a lot of us. If it were me I would get the smallest Rx that is known to work with your Tx at the correct channel numbers i.e. 4ch 6ch the Lemon ones work well, take it out of the case put heat shrink on it and replace what is there, that least will get you flying and takes away an unknown.

Glad I’m not the only one! 😂

I can second this, I have used it for a couple of years now and it excellent.

I have no idea how they think that is good for a documentary Leccy, so easy to disprove. One of my pet hates! As you say it’s been open for decades.

Hi Greg I completely understand your thoughts regards clubs, if you have had negative experiences then only you know where you are comfortable most, good advice here but not for you. You obviously have been researching to whole flying thing and are settled on a way forward for you, having a plan is a good thing! For what it’s worth I echo David’s thoughts regards models and what might be suitable for your journey, foam ones are not my area although having seen the Discovery flown does seem to tick the box, the standout one for me is the KK Super 60, it’s tough as old boots does the job very well and is well proven, the kicker is you can build the aileron wing and you then have everything you need to progress once you have got over the initial learning stages. Radio Queen is a great option too, this era of model was designed around the free flight models of the time so throttling back it’s inherent stability sorts it out to a degree. As a matter of interest where in the country are you?

Nice colour combo 👍🏻

sadly I know your are right, I saw this come up in my FB feed whilst at the hospital yesterday and they were concerned when taking my blood pressure! Much better now though 😂 I sincerely hope he does get something more than a slap on the wrists for this.

I don’t normally get into the debates about drones as I believe each to their own but this story left me cold, how someone could be this stupid is beyond me. This sort of press is something we do not need.

It can do that without the reheat as it is not fitted. Even more awesome only whimps need reheat! 😂

I have had spare parts from the Czech Republic some worth more but just recently of very similar costs as yours Basil and they came via a Jiffy bag fairly quickly too, not had any problems.

I use liquid latex to make flexible moulds when doing my antique ceramic restoration, the first few coats are put on neat then when dry the latex is bulked out using fine saw dust otherwise it takes forever, when using for veneers it is best to coat each surface then let go off then place together, if you pore in and tape the area it is likely not to go off or at least take a longtime to even show signs of going off with unknown strength, I can save a mixture for a week in a reasonably sealed container and it be perfectly usable, if it is a bubble of veneer that you are trying to repair rather than edges you are better using something that chemically cures, I use ZAP Z-POXY finishing resin as this is thinner and works a treat and is reliable, just so as you are aware, latex is good for new applications of veneer but not so reliable for repairs and it does degrade over time as you are seeing with the wing now, I have moulds from the last ten years that have all but disintegrated, I tend to use epoxy to veneer foam these days.

Reading Jon’s answer regards to that I would say yes, maybe have him confirm that.

Hi Andy Yes that is, the ratchet main needle and dust cover is the giveaway.

Dirk, I had been following this thread at the start then life got in the way and I hadn’t been on here much, now I have re aquatinted myself with your project I shall not stray again! You are a true master my friend, I am in awe of your skills.

Is that a LMC kit Paul?, IIRC it was also produced by Peterborough model centre, can’t remember who produced it first, but one bought the range from the other.

I think the choice we have with servos is now pretty comprehensive, the 125 was one of very few available, I think I have been lucky with them, I did not know they were that fragile, I still have a couple of models with them I will be especially careful with them now. You are always learning in this game.

I agree with Frank, I would concentrate on a ballraced output shaft and very little slop as I have found that to be more of a problem for my OCD! 😂 some servos I have used in the past have had slop the transmitted to about 2-3mm movement on the surface, that was in the early days however but the hitec HS 125’s have been used without issues and more recently I have been using KST’s which have been good.

To be honest you would have to get a spare from a laser, I am sure Jon will advise how this put together, as long as the spigot is the right size it should be a straight forward swap, the added bonus is Paul’s carb has the later ratchet needle assembly. personally I would look into this route as being a doable solution.

Well thanks to Bernie Jones at Jeti-Fiala UK these arrived today so getting closer to running, nice quality props.

I think Pat you got it right every time, I seem to lose the ridges when I use the oven to shrink the bottles, obviously heat is important but using a heat gun does work, it seems more controlled in the oven but everyone has their way that works for them.

They are amongst us all the time unfortunately 🙄 Thanks Matty for keeping us informed on the important things, I knew it was floating about but like all things in life and with all people I have a lot going on so it is much appreciated that you take the time and trouble to make us aware of to ensure it is out there.

Thanks Ron, I was beginning to feel I was over thinking this, I have a habit of taking the longer and harder way round things 😂 I will just use it and tie the connections, it will be accessible to change if needs be but I don’t imagine it would come to that.