Trevor

Just to round off yesterday’s topic (which seems already to be two pages back!!) we went to the Fully Charged Show today. Arriving just after 11am, there was no queuing to park (at the Rushmoor overflow), the bus service was excellent and no queue either for registration. The show felt well attended but not crowded and, in spite of some worrying forecasts, there was no serious rain, just occasional light drizzle. I enjoyed the show but still can see no sign of anything electric on the horizon to replace my Kia Sorento as a rough track-capable model aircraft transporter.

Thanks folks, I’ve now got a much better idea of what to expect tomorrow. We aren’t planning on any test drives so may aim to arrive a bit later in the hope that the entrance queue may have subsided.

Sorry to hear that Matty. Hope you feel better soon. We’ve just booked our tickets for Sunday, so maybe I’ll try to report back for you! Trevor

Do please report on what you think of the Fully Charged Show. I'm contemplating going on Sunday but not sure it's worth tackling the M3 on a bank holiday weekend! Trevor

Well done Andy. I look forward to the maiden report.

I've only just caught up on this one Geoff. I like the idea of using the hatch dowel to lock the cowl in place. If you do need to go up a prop size, the APCe 13 x 6.5 is a favourite of mine for 4s models but then, like you, I'm generally not on a quest for speed. Good luck with the maiden. Trevor

As has been said, the lifetime of a LiPo battery depends on so many factors that objective comparisons are hard to come by. As for C ratings, they are more an indication of marketing ambition than of quality. I have had experience of high C rating batteries giving good (low) IR readings initially but swelling prematurely, whereas packs of the same brand and capacity with a more modest C rating have held their shape and shown a much more gradual increase in IR. I also find it very hard to assess how quickly a pack is losing useable capacity. If my (cheap) battery checker tells me that I have 30% remaining after the flight yet the battery is full after a charge of only 30% of its nominal capacity, then has it really lost 40% of its useable capacity? The only way to find out is to discharge the battery on the charger but doing so will shorten the life of the battery so. . . . . Trevor

FWIW, the incident which prompted Manny's article concerned a transmitter apparently changing modulation methods in mid flight. Coincidentally or not, the pilot's phone (in his pocket) received a text message just before the model went out of control. I'm all for taking precautions, but I think it's important to be clear that, in this case at least, the issue seems to have been the electromagnetic susceptibility of the transmitter's digital circuitry rather than interference with its 2.4Ghz transmission.

When Royal Mail finally get around to clearing their backlog, you're going to have enough covering for another model or two Andy! Happy Easter.

Sounds like they’ve got the same team on this issue that masterminded their website overhaul a couple of years back ?

I think it may have been said before in this thread but, if you don’t want to bother monitoring your batteries’ internal resistance etc., I think the simplest way to check whether you’re abusing them is to check their temperature immediately after the flight. If the pack is more than very slightly warm, then the battery has been stressed. This maybe because of high current draw, (e.g. in EDFs or when aerotowing) or because of discharging the battery too deeply. As Simon says, as the battery ages, you may well find that a particular model and flying style warms the battery more than it used to. This is a sure sign that the internal resistance has gone up and the battery is now struggling. If you wish to prolong its remaining life, it’s time to re-deploy it on lighter duties, e.g. in a less demanding model. Trevor

. . As long as you can keep track of what the real useable capacity of the battery is as it ages.

Thanks Ron.

Which warehouse did you order from Ron?

Better still, throw it off a suitable slope for the maiden.

See here. It is possible that it is UK bureaucracy that's behind the delay, but many other suppliers seem to have the system cracked.

I think that's the most crucial bit of advice of all to anybody test flying a warbird (or most other powered models, for that matter). It is often said that the secret to a good landing is in the approach - the same is true of take-off, so give yourself a good talking to before you start, to ensure you aren't tempted to persist with a squirrelly take-or run. Apologies if all this brings to mind is grandma's sucking eggs.

Set up a ‘switch’ based on throttle stick position so that tailwheel steering is disabled when the throttle is at more than, say, 60%?

You are correct DIck - Stephan confirmed they will ship to the UK, so I've placed my order. Thanks for your help.

Thanks Dick. I just added it to the basket and looked for the shipping options. I will message them and ask whether they can help.

I'm looking to buy one of these (140a, 4mm gold connectors) but am having difficulty. I haven't found any in the UK and the two EU sources I've tried so far (SM-Modellbau themselves and Hollein) don't seem to be shipping to the UK. I'd be grateful for any suggestions. TIA Trevor

I often use option 1, but epoxy the brass tube onto the two part piano wire joiner. Trevor

It's gone very quiet on here. I hope your build is still progressing ok Jonathan.

It's a strange thing, but the probability of midairs does seem to be greatest when there are only two of you flying. Maybe it's because you're sure to be involved (bird strikes excepted)!

I usually drill a suitable size hole in a piece of 1/16” ply, glue that onto the balsa, then epoxy the magnet into the hole in the ply. I like Nick’s idea though!