Chris Walby

Nice one Richard, with all the "experience" gained with my very porky under powered Vulcan 69 inch at 12lbs on pusher props I think Ill avoid any sort of ramp/bungee and go for the hand launch with gyro/safe as an option. If I can get my SU47 then something with a prop on the front must be easier! I have an Arrows T33 and that under arm launches ok...once you know the technique. PS 40 m of bungee at 25kg gets her away!

Reality check....IMO you just won't get the interest or numbers for a twin of any sort although the PZ and BH mossies are long gone and Motion RC do a great foam P38 and Tigercat so that's them covered off. That leave the P82 and others that are too odd ball which really leaves HE111 and BF110, but again you won't get the number. My vote (although I would like a twin) would be known good fliers and mainstream adjusted with easier/cheaper build materials. FW190 Hurricane Zero YAK 3 There are other manufacturers producing ME109's and Hien's etc so I thing they will take numbers away from Richard's viability to build kits. I agree with GG around easy build...I would then cajole club members to have a go based on the "mass build" type of support available which might get us into order book double figures!

I have a T33, does not need a gyro IMO and the knack is wot and underarm launch, but accuracy if far more successful that brut force. I think that is where the overhead goes wrong as you cant feel the model pitch change in the lob process, especially if the person is trying to throw it hard. PS medium rate, but hold full up elevator in and that works reliably for me.

Is it about the model or the audience? If you want to sell quantity then cheap high wing trainer (only because that's where the majority of new people start)? The alternative is ask 5 modellers and get a wish list of 10 different models. IMO the niche is the ability to produce kits in very low numbers to order or as Richard has done in the past and rallied the buyers to make a minimum number batch. I am not planning to go all electric, but I am very much in the minority as old modellers can't be bothered with IC and the newbies don't want the expense of the additional IC kit. I would say 4S5000 batteries and the corresponding drive train and model to suit would keep the cost down and appeal to more people. What you make it out of is almost irrelevant IMO. Last and most important is getting the flying community to actually realise that you have a model to sell. If no one knows you are making them then no one will buy them. The number of models I have and model flyers ask me who's kit/supplier its from...I then ask if they have heard of them and the reply is almost always they hadn't.

Standard, what's standard Bicycles in Canada have the front break on the left handlebar. USA like using pedal back rear brakes, oh and then there is the fixed wheel brigade. I drive manual and automatic cars and interchange right or left foot breaking without any issues. PS how often are you going to need to trim the model and is it really a problem if you know what you have to do with this particular model?

What prop nut does a inline 160 use? Cheers

I agree with Jon and Ron, fill before every flight, only thing to add. Old pipe becomes hard and I have come across some pipe to fittings that leak when flexed. So bench tests ok, but once the engine is running and things are moving about the pressure is faster. Re-plumb it as it won't take long, you can check each component for leaks + get a little silicon oil in part. And its a good job done for the next few years (piece of mind as well). Plan B again...if the retracts don't work then you have already picked a spot of long grass to land in 🙂

Stand to the side (pilot box) unless hand launching. The busier it gets the more likely someone will not hear you call about heading out on to an active runway...If you are concentrating on your model then you may not be aware of the other aircraft around you. If the only person on the flight line then do what you want, but being used to standing on the side, that's my preferred place.

I would say that manufacturers of all models now make them to be electric and just badge them Ic so the old school guys can relate to them "oh its a 40 size model" the reality is it saves them money (materials and production time) + chances are almost all will be electric anyway. even the bigger stuff up to 80 inch I would say are aimed at the electric user. Not forgetting they are made to fly and not survive being crashed. Aidan, I have/had a Seagull Mosquito and Hurricane and both are well below par flying characteristics compared with VQ, in fact the Hurricane is a dog beyond belief. Ok it might be better quality but it won't make many flying minutes before its in a bin liner. IMO Seagull were good, have totally lost the plot with the hurricane and more recent offerings. If you gave me one, I would give it back and wish you all the best of luck, as you would need it.

Both VQ and a couple of years old...both with Laser 80's powering and sounding just great. No added lead, just put the the ancillaries in the right place Quality is what you expect for the price and best of all they fly great. The 190 does not have flaps and its not an issue as its very stable, in fact its surprising how slow it will fly. IMO if you damage the UC on these then you are not flying or landing correctly, simples. Don't add weight just to land hard or something else will break Two advantages of Lasers up front, no need to add lead and they sound great + on low oil they make next to no mess.

I have a couple of models (IC) that have or used steel wing bolts, the first I changed back to nylon and the other I have to fit additional bands why? Because steel wing bolts undo themselves! I tried sprung washers and even some very fancy (norlock) and even attaching washers to the screw heads so I could cable tie them. In the end it was just easier and far more reliable to use nylon screws. One other thing and that is in the event of unfortunate incident the nylon screws will probably sheer off whereas the steel screws will certainly cause more damage to either the wing or fuselage or both.

Assuming you are rotating the crankshaft in the right direction and you know where the piston is then yes.

Spektrum TX's notify you that you are about to leave the model menu and go to model select/TX settings (it then turns the RF off), but it does not stop you from continuing. It will be based on the owner knowing that they need to have removed the flight battery (electric) and/or set the correct fail safe's up. The newer TX's remind you to rebind the RX after certain functions have been changed like throttle reversal, but then again the owner can ignore doing it. As the say "nothing is idiot proof to a suitable igneous idiot" PS I was watching an air accident investigate. The commercial aircraft started its stick shaker, both pilots pulled back on the stick and did not increase throttles. The aircraft stalled and crashed. My point is that their training was incorrect, but who trains us on complex (to me!) transmitter equipment? Perhaps the BMFA A and B certs should have a section on evidencing TX control checks as well as model checks pre-flight?

IMO it depends on landing air speed and a bit of luck, oh and how big a diameter prop it is? WooHoo (twin) has small props so hardly ever break a prop FT Versa has those floppy 8x4 and seem ok, but if you put a stiffer prop on they sometimes break - see note Focke Stick (twin) small props NP Outlaw NP and Ripmax Spitfire, TN Ta154 - see note Cambrian FF ME109 when I had it used to break the odd one Note - before beefing up the prop to an IC one its worth checking the strength of the firewall. TN Ta154, Ripmax Spitfire and Versa have cheese bulkheads and all you do is move the problem somewhere else....that causes more damage when it lets go! PS Is it me but are folding props less efficient than a non folding one?

Runs on because? Just due to its mass As its heavy, it has a higher landing speed, but then why doe it "float" Something else? Just interested as to the reason, cheers

Could it not be a plain old servo reverser? I have some with an in, out and out reversed on leads, perhaps this is the leadless version? If it is then it will only work in one combination ?

I don't hold with the TX telemetry suggestion for a couple of reasons, firstly the assumption that when the model contacts with the ground, that the battery is not ejected/disconnected thus powering off the RX won't happen. Ok I suppose if you have logged GPS that you can look at that. Secondly I had a model dead stick and the glide was a lot better than I expected hence it skimmed the top of the maze until dropping in. We (three/four of us) spent the best part of 90 minutes walking around with the TX held at waist, chest and arms reach trying to determine its location by signal strength. We gave up once it was getting dark and I returned the next morning. Fortunately an cub member had videoed the flight and by using landmarks in the distance could work out its flight path. Another 45 minutes of searching and still nothing until one of the trips of walking in and out of the field to get my bearings I came across it standing on its nose undamaged in the maze (it was nowhere near where the TX suggested). I appreciate warbirds have camouflage and in this case it worked very well. Perhaps telemetry works better in less demanding situations, but then again don't you want to find the hard to find model!

Dream on Martin, there is absolutely no chance of getting that under 82dB, but as the BBC would say "other clubs are available".

This is a highly charged debate that has no big end and we just have to hold differential views before motoring on to something more productive. Its just all torque and hot air that does not help lift the discussion due to some people just dragging us back down to the ground level. Can we just elevate ourselves and reach for the skies to promote the hobby rather than dive and roll about with no common porpoise. PS No answers here, just lost in the long grass doing my own thing.

I have an odd medical condition that manifests itself with the side effect of purchasing mostly twin powered models although I have acquired EDF's and some odd things with only one prop attached! Nothing quire like a nice circuit with a descending low pass through the flight line and although electric is ok and 3 or 4 bladed props can sound nice its not quite the same as 4 stroke IC engine IMO 🙂 There have been other threads discussing the merits of electric/ic and the fuzzy cross over point (that's slowly moving towards larger models) and for me there is the continuing bad press of the model plane killing twins. Compared with the number of single motor/engine models that bite the dust, twins are in the minority. Jon gave me some general advice and it works well for me "Always fly with a plan B in mind" If something fails or packs up what's the plan to manage the situation for the best outcome and its just as applicable for twins. Reliability is about quality of the product and preparation and I have had more electric twins have one quit than I have with IC. Plus more other component failures or dumb thumbs resulting in the use of the black bin liner! PS Some models are more tolerant if one quits and Peter Millers Grumpy Tiger Cub is well known for its ability to fly on one motor/engine.

I use SaferPets on the dogs, its not very large or heavy + I only turn it on when the dogs are off the lead and likely to do a bunk. It would work well if the model is stationary as the accuracy improves over a few seconds/minutes as long as there is a phone signal! Its less effective with the dog at full speed heading across the field, but that's not the point for me. Its if the dog gets trapped/stuck/injured as I would be able to find them rather than start a search over a couple of square miles.

Would be nice to know where the C of G is and what washing powder you use? T shirt from 1986, impressive on both counts ! 😉

Wow what a load of doom and gloom, well it must be all down hill as we are past day 201 leaving only 164 days left to the end of the year and it won't be any better for the first 4 months of next year either. Its not like this happens every year, but wait a moment it does happen every year! How about build a WooHoo, easy to build , a bit of covering practice and it will fly in almost anything the British weather can chuck at it. Hand launch and on low rates is very stable, high rates and it is WooHoo!. If you want something bigger then Lindsey Todd's Renaissance (designed to use lots of different building skills and a nice follow on from a high wing foam thing) or a Peter Miller design. Could you be tempted to the dark side of twins with an electric Grumpy Tiger Cub, my young apprentice 🤣 PS I have amassed 274 flights this year to date and a good chuck has been training others, so in my book its a case of making the most of any time that you can fly! PPS don't forget a model with LED's for flying when its dark...great fun!...oh and skis for the snow.. tried floats yet?

I think you are missing the point, if the deal seems to good to be true then it probably is (most likely its a fake). Two things I hold close are service/support and reliability. Firstly I use LMS and 4max as I get good advice, not the cheapest, but in the long run saves me time so I am happy with that. Secondly I use Laser engines as I fly mostly twins and number one golden rule is avoid getting into a sticky situation than trying to get out of one and Laser engines are renown for their reliability. I have a couple of electric models (Outlaw one of them) which is about 1.5 kg and capable of +150mph. I take my responsibility as the pilot in control very seriously as almost all of my models would cause very serious injury if it hit someone. Personally if I knew I had a fake component (servo, RX, etc) and an accident occurred I would feel responsible irrespective of the legal consequences. PS I have a cheap foamboard model, probably cost less than £25 total, great fun to fly and I would still be disappointed if I damaged/destroyed it due to component failure...dumb thumbs is another thing altogether. PPS I picked up a model that had taken the guy 18 years to build, flies well and I don't see why it should not be around in another 18 years if I look after it (might have just worn the Laser out by then..but perhaps not!)

Petrol 30cc props Specification of the aircraft propeller: 18x8,18x10,20x8 Laser 180 17×8-10 18×8-10 19×6-8 20×6 Looking at the recommended prop sizes I think it will be very close, but the Laser will sound much better 🙂