EvilC57

I also do it by sticking a couple of small strips of masking tape at the correct CG, which I can feel under my fingertips when I’m checking the balance.

I’ve always found Simply Bearings to be good.

1550mAh 4S Gaoneng for me. Flight time around 3 minutes.

Makes me feel sick every time I pay my TV license 🤮.

It’s simpler and less damaging to the box just to take the seal out, which is what I’ve done. I’ve kept the seal safe somewhere, so if ever I want to repurpose the ammo box for something else I can just put it back in.

I had to steel myself to look at it.

Makes my eyes go funny 😵!

You missed the £75 postage!

Better than my diesel Tiguan then. The clutch went at just over 40k miles.

Agreed. However if no one has any children in future, who’s going to pay us oldies state pensions?!

I remember my mother prescribing Lucozade to me when I had an upset stomach back in the 1970s. When she took me to the doctor (in the days when you could get to see one at short notice), he said that actually if you have an upset tummy the best thing you can do is just drink your usual tap water.

What happens if you’re trying to print a 3D model of a plate of spaghetti, do they stop then?!

Hmm, interesting Allan. Be interesting to hear what ColorFabb come back with. I must admit the possibility of the reel snagging and hanging up is always at the back of mind whenever I’m printing, but you can’t sit there and watch all the time while an eight hour print runs! I gather some more upmarket printers (Bambu X1 for one) use a camera and AI software for ‘spaghetti detection’, to detect print failure and stop the print from progressing. I don’t know whether they detect print starvation though.

I’ve put two reels of ColorFabb LW-PLA through my Ender 3 V2 now, and can’t say I have encountered this problem. Although I did have it once with a reel of Sunlu PLA. It sounds like you’ve just been unlucky. The first reel of CF LW-PLA I had was on a plastic spool, but they seem to have gone over to a cardboard one now (trying to be green I guess), but both unspooled OK. To ease the path of the filament, a couple of the first things I did when I got my printer was to make and fit a guide pulley and this filament holder from Thingyverse.

I don’t know whether this thread is of any help, and particularly my post from it (reposted below), which is a setup for differential throttle with fail safe on both channels for a DX8 Gen 1: “Right; Just for the record I’ve now discovered a way to switch in independent throttle control when needed. I asked a clever chap on our field who flies a twin engined job whether his throttle servos are on a Y-lead, or independent. He uses separate servos with a couple of mixes in his Tx, and kindly sent me the .SPM file which achieves this. This is how it’s done using a 1st generation DX8 and 8 Channel receiver (AR8000): Mix 1 THR > AX3 Rate: -100% -100% Offset: 0% Trim: Inh Sw: Gear 0 Mix 2 AX3 > THR Rate: -100% -100% Offset: 0% Trim: Inh Sw: Gear 0 These two mixes mix Throttle (Ch1) to Aux 3 (Ch8), and Aux 3 back to the Throttle, and have the effect when enabled (Gear switch down), of synchronising the servo movements on both channels for normal flight. But allowing independent movement with the Gear switch up. In use this means that with the Gear switch UP you can start one engine and get it running while using the throttle stick to control it, then leave it idling while you start the other engine, and control it from the Aux 3 knob. When you’re ready, setting the Gear switch DOWN brings both engines under control of the throttle stick as usual. Note that you need to keep the Aux 3 knob in the centre of it’s rotation (where it beeps as it goes through centre) for normal flight. Note also that you also need to bind the Rx in Preset Failsafe mode rather than Hold Last Position, to ensure that the slave (Aux 3) channel also returns to closed throttle position on failsafe operation. Using an 8 channel Rx also leaves Ch2 and Ch6 both available if you want separate aileron servos. I’ve tried all this so far with a battery, receiver and two servos on the bench, and it all seems to work as described (I haven’t started building the target model yet). The chap who gave me this setup did say that if he were to get a dead engine in flight, he could switch the mix out, operate the throttle and see whether the remaining engine responds of not, from that he reckoned (knowing which engine was on the primary throttle channel) he could tell which one had cut - and put the correct rudder offset in accordingly. I suspect you would be lucky to achieve this in reality! However, it seems like a useful facility for ground running.”

It’s just a physical strength thing as far as I’m concerned with 26 vs 22SWG. 26 gauge always seems a bit fragile to me, when you consider the twisting, bending and other stresses placed upon servo wires (and extensions). So I tend to prefer 22 gauge except for small light, or indoor models.

How about these from AliExpress?

Like others here I use a fuselage jig, but have never felt the need for a wing jig (in fact I didn’t know such things existed). I just make my wings over the plan flat on a cork surfaced bench, and if necessary for a wing which is not flat on the bottom, I make up balsa blocks to pin the LE & TE pieces down to - see pics below…

Very nice. How about reinstating them Mr Crozier 🤩!

Does anyone on here still order from HobbyKing?

kevin b, are you talking about the life of Brian?!