Dad_flyer

I have not been flying long, so classics are not something that I remember, but what I hear about. There are some designers where the quality or ease of construction is what is talked about, but for most classic designs it is a pleasing shape, or one that will fly well, or an accurate scale design. That is all about the external shape, wing profile and layout and incidences of the flying surfaces. If there are deficiencies under the hood they are given minor consideration. Maybe a comment to beef something up, though more often a comment to build lighter. If I read build threads of classic models there are always changes made from the original. Each person takes parts of other builds and does their own thinking. For a plan-built model there is not really a mechanism for incorporating improvements back into the actual plan. Kits are different, someone is turning out copies of a plan, instructions and parts, so they could change. However I imagine the actual runs are pretty small for any one design as there are so many different models for so many different tastes. Just not possible to put in the effort and testing. For something like the Stampe, it is a big and complicated model. I agree that makes weak points more serious, but also anyone attempting to build it is likely to have a lot of experience or it will fail anyway. The Vintage Model Company seem to have done redesigns on their re-released classics. They are all small and cheap and probably sell in numbers.

I don't know the Ender, but usually SD card. You probably have one already with the cat and dog on. Lots of prints will fit on a small card, as 'small' is 4GB or 8GB now.

I have two chargers that measure cell voltage, one with four channels, and a battery checker. They all read differently, by about 0.02v at worst. The battery checker seems to be particularly bad on cells 3 and 4. A multimeter can measure each cell in sequence with the same meter, so if it is wrong, all measurements are similarly wrong so cells that measure equal would be actually equal.

It will pop off more easily once the plate has cooled. Patience is a virtue?.

Forecast on xcweather was 10-18 for today. It seemed at the high end of that, but at least blowing into the side of the patch which has 7" maize. Child_flyer had no worries about taking the Stick up. No one else there. We stayed 4 hours with plenty of flights, it calmed down a lot later and Renegade and little Mayfly had a relaxing outing as well. I am still not allowed a go with Renegade.

If you are someone who thinks more about geometry than sculpting, and are happy with programming, then OpenSCAD might suit as a design program. It is free and open source. You write a program that describes the object that you want as shapes, differences, hulls etc. As it is a program you can make the shape parameters variables, so at a stroke you could replace all the 3mm holes as 4mm, or put in the new spacings for mounting a different motor and everything can move to match. It is great if that is the way you think about shapes and you are doing structures. Not so good for sculpting a pilot figure!

It was a special issue I think. Recent, because I have not been in the game long. I have actually just found it, special issue 2019. I have also found my Miss Deeds plan tucked in the cover, I have been looking for that everywhere, so thank you very much for getting me to look in that issue. I have no idea why I put it there.

Build a new fuse, as it sounds as though you still have the the XL wing? Scale up an Ugly stick fuse to the right size and get the Wot 4 shape for the tail feathers. It would be a little design thought, but it is a square box and flat plate tail so quick to build.

I have not seen it needing side thrust. Folded foamboard is not a precision building material, but it also continues to fly when quite bent from 'arrivals'. I would try to see how to get the wing straight and then go fly.

Well done on the maiden. It does look slower than ours, a bit more power won't hurt. It is probably more scale at that speed though! For the wing problem, I would suggest cutting the wing away from the fuselage and regluing. Even cutting the dihedral and regluing if that looks necessary. Mine has had the wing off several times, never intentionally... A craft knife with the break-off blades can be extended nice and long to cut through where you need it.

Somebody wanted spruce? Give me a couple of years to get it dry. Then, would it make the mast for a post retirement sailing trip round Britain? Or the spars and longerons for a 1/4-scale Bleriot XI? 20 years ago it was a little Christmas tree.

That is only 72" (+fuselage width) wingspan? I thought this was a 90"+ plan.

Rusty Ferguson was/is the free plan spread across the June/July issues. It says OS 70 four stroke.

Rapid RC show stock.

Not mine, and not new. Child_flyer smiled sweetly and got this for a song at the last club bring and buy before lockdown. We did not have the confidence to fly it last year, but maidened today. Child_flyer did not let me have a go, but was all smiles afterwards, so I think it must be OK. Black Horse Renegade ARTF. Had some damage in the past which was repaired well, so all it needed was a check over and freeing some of the linkages up. Electric, 700kv with 12×8 prop on 4s 5000mAh. I have not measured the power, it was flown a lot before on this setup.

The main thing for aerials is that they have very weak response when the end of the wire is pointing directly at the transmitter. They are best side on. The effectiveness is generally reduced if there is other metal around, like batteries, metal pushrods and wires. The actual aerial will be the final few cm, often clear plastic around a central wire, the rest is a shielded lead. So place the aerial where it is in a fairly clear environment, and if it has to be near wires then at right-angles to them is less bad. Many receivers have two aerials, placing them pointing different ways means they are never both pointing directly at the transmitter. Putting them at right angles to each other is best, but it does not matter whether that is one up and one across, or one front to back or a right angle at 45degrees to vertical. It may not be the radio at the cause. Being a bit slow and allowing the model to stall can feel as though the RC is not responding. It will not turn as you want. One of my models pretty reliably turns the wrong way when it is too slow. Another of my models too much stick movement feels like having no control, when it is actually over control.

Had some good days flying with my bigger models and found I ran out of electrons in everything including my field charger. Especially with child_flyer getting enthusiastic. Having this thread in mind I looked into LiFePO batteries. As @Dickw says they are specified for what we need: Supply medium current (my 4-channel charger will often want 6A, sometimes 10), not mind deep discharge, have plenty of cycles, temperature tolerant (high and low). If you factor in the probable lifetime they are cheap, but up front cost can be high. There are a few that are cheaper, and don't seem to be poor - at least they have been around a bit and are not slated on caravan forums. So this arrived today. 24Ah, which is twice the nominal capacity of my lead acid, and three times the 8Ah or less that I actually get at high current draw. 4 and a bit times the price, so hardly needs to last longer to be worth it. All being well I can empty it at the weekend between the showers that are forecast. (Branded TN, it must be specifically designed for charging sport scale models ?)

You will have fun with that. Ours suffered a dumb thumbs moment a couple of weeks ago. I forgot it is not a vintage radio assist model and wildly over-controlled it. It was a clean break across the fuselage so was easily mended and Child_flyer has been putting it through its paces again.

I would suspect the same as @Alan Gorham_. Receivers are often/usually 3.3V logic, but the servos are powered at 5V. This works perfectly well if both are operating within the actual specifications of the logic, but a slightly low output from the receiver and a slightly high threshold on the servo logic would mean that the servo does not register anything. To be sure of it you would need an oscilloscope to check the receiver output, or a logic level converter to check the servo threshold voltage.

The rounded sunburst is very stylish.

Many electric designs just use small woodscrews from the front. That is quite a chunky firewall, so plenty to bite into. No4 (3mm), countersunk or pan head depending on your X mount. I have been surprised seeing this with only an 1/8" firewall (for 28xx motors) where the screws go right through, but I have not seen failures of that fixing.

Looking good. Definitely worth doing a bottle canopy and a pilot, they look odd with the solid version on the plan. I have one, built from the downloaded plans and Hobbycraft Westfoam board. This is heavier and I have a fair bit of weight under the motor to balance all the area of board behind the wing. It needed even more once (rather heavily) painted. It flies very nicely, but is a right pig with the CG too far back. On the spar or slightly in front. Have fun with it.

It looks great.

I just love this model ?? The council cut our grass and have left it rather long at present. Well above the wheels, which made it marginal to reach flying speed. Once unstuck it is big, stable, beautiful and a joy to land. I am a happy bunny after missing all this good weather so far.

I am more at the other end starting out. This thread has been interesting because a couple of times I have held off from accepting a bargain or freebie. Not because I did not want them, but because I felt that 1: I might not be good enough to fly them and end up spoiling somebody's beautiful model, or 2: I would not fly it enough to justify the generosity. I both cases I am looking at it from the point of I did not need it and there was likely to be someone else who did. I shall be a more enthusiastic recipient if the opportunity arises in the future.