Andy Stephenson

There is this but they don't seem too friendly to this one... https://www.aeromodellers.co.uk/

I believe this notice has been circulated to club secretaries for them to pass it on to their members.

The biggest problem with simply scaling ribs is that the trailing edge remains constant thickness (or close to) so this needs to be adjusted out of proportion to the profile.

I was in the battery industry for 16 years and I know these stories are always just a way of begging for investment because it takes a lot of money to turn a laboratory development into a commercial product. It took a giant like Sony to commercialise the lithium ion battery back in the 90s.

For me it is the closest approximation to the effect of acceleration on take-off, which is when there is always a possibility of a lean cut if not tuned to perfection.

I've used cellulose thinners as it is a cocktail of organic solvents so one of its constituents will get the muck off even if the others wont.

There was a bomb found at the local tip (recycling centre) and it was closed off for a controlled explosion. When I was next there I asked one of the operatives if there was a special skip for bombs, he was not amused.

What ever you do, don't take an engine to Jon for service with WD40 in it, I did but I think I got away with it.

Sheepish, Nice scale detail, I particularly like the radar, only I don't think they had them in those days.

Jon, Does your boss read this forum?

Rich, this is only true at high frequencies not with DC. Black wire corrosion is caused by a combination of moisture and a source of voltage, it's an electrochemical reaction. Modellers who store their gear in a garden shed or an unheated garage are most likely to find this problem. To reduce the likelihood of it happening, remove all batteries from any gear stored under such conditions.

I found the only way to remove the colour was to wash it with cellulose thinners, although this isn't completely effective as it leaves a stain which soaks into the wood.

Accidents, failures and piracy will make drone delivery so impractical and expensive, I don't think it will happen in the near or medium future. Ground based drones as already trialled on university campuses in the US is probably the way to go.

I put it more politely than that, I say "can I speak to someone who's first language is English" and that's usually enough to do the trick.

It used to be said that twisting the needle assembly on an ST carb was what adjusted the mid-range response, It looks like the previous owner took this to the extreme.

I've done this by squeezing the crimp back the other way with pliers across the wide part of the tube. If you are lucky and you can get a good grip it will flip open and release the wire.

It's normal practice to switch the positive connection (red wire) to keep the ground (negative) as low resistance as possible to minimise any voltage drop as all the electronic circuitry uses this as a reference.

Thanks Ron, my Google search didn't lead there.

Ron, do you have a link to Laser 5 Pro?

Makita drills use A123 LiFe batteries which last years, hold a charge amazingly well and have all the features you'd expect, expensive but good.

I fully recommend Rene wire it's much like Inconel the alloy they make jet turbines out of, it can get red hot without loosing any strength or stretching much. It tends to have a higher resistance than NiChrome wire because it can be used in a much thinner gauge so you will need more voltage to drive it. Being thinner it also makes a cleaner cut with less drag.

Any incoming RF is very unlikely to interfere with any communications but it could be getting into some other vulnerable part of the electronics in the security system which is supposed to have passed a CE test for radiated RF immunity.

I don't see Laser5 pro fuel mentioned anywhere except here it's not even on Modeltechnics website. Is it on sale yet?

A glow plug only requires 1.2 volts and most LEDs don't light until you put more voltage than that across them. Plus the fact anything you put in circuit will drop too much voltage to light the plug. I would recommend a cheap multimeter set to ohms on the lower range to check it offline. Alternatively any power-panel with a glow supply will have a built-in meter to tell you the current the plug is consuming. Be careful of short circuits in the plug if the element is distorted and touching the sides it will take current but won't light and still look like a good plug.

KC have you tried leaving a outside light on to see if it's the time of day or the lack of illumination that enables the fault.