Frank Skilbeck

OK, this was hung up in our club model room for many years, it was built as a scale prototype for a full size microlite biplane that never materialised. It's about 80 inch span. We are never going to finish it and are going to have to dispose of it, so anybody fancy an unusual prototype, collection from Aston Ingham, just off J3 on the M50. PM me if you are interested.

Flaps are commonly used on thermal soarers, using a couple of degrees up/down for speed/thermal settings, and then big deflections for landing.

Our Treasurer has advised that our bank, Lloyds, has changed us to a Community Account with a £4.50 monthly fee, as we are a small club with circa 30 members it's a reasonable chunk of the club membership fee. So any recommendations as to which bank/account we could switch too, thanks.

Yep, I have a Mini 2, it's found several lost models, especially when they've alighted in tall crops. Also found a dropped tow line at an aerotow.

Yep, at the time the aim was to include model flying locations on airspace maps. I sent details of our club field and also a local slope used by local slope sharers, the slope not being affiliated to any club.

You may want to fit the lowest recommended pitch prop or it may not land without cutting the engine 😉

Providing the Profi is fitted with the training module https://sussex-model-centre.co.uk/products/copilot-45184 which you'll see by taking the back off. Set your tx to M Link and then bind the module to it, like you were binding a MPX rx to it. Then configure the trainer channels and change over switch on the Profi. I fitted mine with a side mounted button for the handover button.

It's not Bluetooth but the additional trainer module is basically a Multiplex M Link receiver, so any Multiplex 2.4 Ghz Tx will link to it (as woukd a Powerbox with M-link or even a radio with 4 in 1 module set to M Link) On the master Tx you have to tell it what channels the buddy Tx controls are assigned to and which ones you wish to allocate to the student, note mixes and trims are retained by the master, so the buddy model memory only needs to be set up for the 4 basic channels. I've used my Profi to link with my Royal Sx 9, so if I can help just shout.

If you are replacing the rx in an existing model, remember to check that the failsafe still works as you intend.

I've got a 40 and it does run a bit better on 10% and is slightly easier to tune, but I have run it on 5%, just seems a bit happier on 10%. Try it on 5%. No castor in my fuel either.

ED there's loads of YouTube videos and blogs from independent specialists and amatures repairing EVs and batteries. There was a father and son business repairing an old Nissan LEAF battery with nothing more than a multimeter, appropriate PPE, and a couple of model grade chargers to match replacement battery module to existing modules. Another has specialised in Renault Zoes and the local dealer even sends motors to him for bearing replacements. But part of the problem is that specialising in EV repairs isn't that profitable, so even companies that do e.g. Cleverly do ICE work as well to keep their workshop busy.

I had a Graupner Extra, set up with recommended control movements it ran out of elevator on landing, more elevator movement and landings were much better, but too much elevator at the bottom of a loop and it bit big time. Getting back to your aircraft, could you add a stall generator near the wing root so it stalls at the root first. Also does it wing drop in one direction every time, maybe one wing is a bit heavier than other.

One word of warning, you'll end up using the EV way more than your ICE, and it will feel primitive everytime you do.

Quite common with gliders to set the failsafe to initiate a spin, not as far too walk and it will descend more slowly than if it goes into a dive.

Hopefully won't come to that......

Thanks, will let him know. Might be easier to remove the cylinder head, we can also then check for any carbon build up etc.

Clubmate has got an older OS70 FS, we charged get it to start, but it cuts out at above half throttle, it also spits fuel out of the carb when running. We're going to strip the carb down to check for a partial blockage, but thought we check the valve timing as well, but the cam cover will only pull out a millimeter and then no more. Is there a technique to getting them off, it can't be seized in position as you can easily rotates it and it does moved little bit.

Ah OK no satellite on this one, I'll see if he's still got it. Surprised it actually bound though in this configuration.

Got an AR8010T rx, came with a model, it binds to my mates Dx9 and my Dx8, but doesn't drive the servos, before we bin it are we missing anything?

Running mine on the Delux Materials synthetic oil at the recommended ratio, which if I recall is around 32:1. One issue I have had is the exhaust coming loose fairly regularly. I'll check what prop and rpm I get and report back (I have them written down somewhere) BTW, video of mine here

Still got my NGH 38cc, has run for a few months but ran fine last year, but they aren't the most powerful. What weight is the SE5, my NGH is in a 7.5kg sports model, and that's about it's limit.

I had a Discus from the Far East (can't remember who) on the first slope session a landing in the bracken caused cracking at the base of the fin, purely by the weight of the T tail and suddenly deceleration, we came to the conclusion that the fuselage was made from recycled egg shells. The wings were one hi covered foam and really good though.

Maybe a rescue hovercraft.

Yep I had this 9n the bench when setting up a glider, the switch was the culprit. Also had another model where the BEC was getting hot and cutting out, one of the 3 identical servos was drawing excessive current.

I had a Saito 100 in a Mustang, it ran well and I don't recall it vibrating much.