Vecchio Austriaco Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 First I don't see the real need for a metal tank - I prefer transparent plastic ones where I can see what happens - but if you really make one why did nobody consider a round shape? this is absolutely the easiest - take a thin walled brass tube you just need to produce the two"lids", having a tight fit inside the tube. solder them in soft or even with siver, they will have a hole anyway as you would like to make them on a lathe to get the diameter right. Round will also be the right shape if you think about pressure in your tank. (yes a sphere is better - but how to make one...) What about our aerobatic pilots? If you want something like a clunk you need to look for a metal bottle with a metal screw lid - which you could use to insert a silicon tube with a clunk. Of course you could cut make a lid with threaded flanges. All rather complicated and more in the corner of the life steam friends. Cheers VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Many years ago when I was editing "How I Did That" someone sent me a very clever tip. If you buy a 20 mm conduit bush and cut it down to 6 mm long you can solder this into the metal tank and it is a perfect fit for a normal rubber bung and clunk set up. This way you have the advantages of a metal tank and a normal clunk (Sorry, now a Clank tank.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 How do you see inside a plastic tank buried inside a fuselage Vecchio?? If you can find me a 25cc plastic tank then I'd be very greatful..... My metal tank is made to fit a specific model.....not having any large brass tube or indeed a lathe to turn up the end plates to hand I went for folded metal.....I think it will easily take the amount of pressure I'm likely to subject it to.... From the photos you can see that it was really quite simple to make the tank & I would certainly do so again.....perhaps in a more exotic shape like Engine Doctors.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Posted by Peter Miller on 13/01/2012 11:37:26: This way you have the advantages of a metal tank and a normal clunk (Sorry, now a Clank tank.) That made me chuckle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 I made a clank tank years ago by using the clunk fittings from a SLEC tank in a 6mm nut soldered to the tank.Vecchio, how can a round tank be simpler than folded metal when you talk about turning circular end plates in a lathe? I always used to use two U shaped pieces of tin, easiest to cut out, easiest to fold round a tank size block of hard wood. I copied the method from KeilKraft and similar tanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Bob, may be because I have a lathe? Everything which is round is easy and done in a short time. Steve, actually I see the tank when I remove the wings in my Extra - I don't mean to see it why refilling- when it is full you will notice it anyway. but if you have any accumulation of residue you will easily see it in a plastic tank but you will not in a metal one. About the size: 30cc I found at the first address I was looking at in the internet. - so the difference between 25 and 30 is not that big. (Sullivan, aerobatic tank 30ml, price 3.50€, art. no 79125, der-schweighofer.at ) Now I stop, I think you did very good work, and the main thing in this hobby is to enjoy it. And if you look at the things I do there are also a lot of joy-only actions in it Cheers VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Tweddle Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Posted by Martin Harris on 11/01/2012 12:42:09: No mention of Colmans Mustard tins? Or Eye droppers... Gosh this brings them back, did we not angle 1 of the 3 pipes forward to give positive fuel pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daithi O Buitigh Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Wasn't the feed pipe angled to compensate for centrifugal force (when the fuel got shoved to the outside in C/L)? Most team racers had the pipes flush to the fuselage top (using fuel tube extensions and quick fill from a squeezy bottle with a brass tube nozzle), so forwars angle wasn't possible. It may have been tried in the wedge shape stunt tanks (but I was never a stunt pilot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Yes, the feed pipe always went to the outside, rear corner. Bottom if it was a team race tank, in the corner of the wedge part for stunt. Forward facing vents on stunt tanks. Often the filler pipe went to the outside of the tank so it was under the fuel level and the vent was blanked off. the so called uniflow tank. Some T/R tanks had forward facing vents some didn't. I never did much in T/R. Rat race tanks used crankcase pressure. The filled was a 3/8" tube sticking up with a eye dropper rubber stuck into it. The rubber had a slit in the bottom and the large bore filler tube opened this up to allow fuel in and air out. The slit closed up when the filler was removed, sealing the tank again. Worked well and so simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 A couple of things I forgot to mention when using tin plate tanks.1, They are great for diesel fuel but do eventually rust when used with glow fuel . 2,When you have finished soldering them and tested for leaks ,fill them with cellulose thinners and shake vigorously to dissolve any bits of hardened flux. If yiou dont it finds its way into the fuel pipe and blocks it . Guess how I know ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 And the best way to test for leaks is to blank off all vents and submerse the whole tank in a bolw of hot water and wathc for bubbles. You get more pressure that way rather than just blowing into the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastFlyer Smyth Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 I have just aquired a Mercury New Junior Monitor Mk2 kit from fleabay, (anyone remember them ?) The kit is incomplete in that it has the whole set of outboard wing components missing.I'm not too fussed as all but most of them can be easily replaced. I dont know whether to build it or put it back on fleabay as a complete kit. The plan specifies a 2 inch pressure fed tank but shows an elfin diesel engine. How do pressure fed tanks work ? and more so in the case of a diesel ? There is no tank with the kit so I am contemplating making a tin one. Thanks Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaunie Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 I've only made a couple of tanks but what I did was cut a wood block the size of the tank. I then cut the end caps about 3mm oversize all round. These were then clamped to the block and I carefully dressed the oversize portion over the block which in my mind gave a larger soldering area and avoided the nasty sharp edge sticking up. Shaunie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Posted by FastFlyer Smyth on 01/01/2014 17:08:15: I have just aquired a Mercury New Junior Monitor Mk2 kit from fleabay, (anyone remember them ?) The kit is incomplete in that it has the whole set of outboard wing components missing.I'm not too fussed as all but most of them can be easily replaced. I dont know whether to build it or put it back on fleabay as a complete kit. The plan specifies a 2 inch pressure fed tank but shows an elfin diesel engine. How do pressure fed tanks work ? and more so in the case of a diesel ? There is no tank with the kit so I am contemplating making a tin one. Thanks Alan In fact what they called a pressure fed tank in those days was one with both vents facing forward, KK and Mercury made them. When the Junior Monitor first came out crankcase pressure was only used on very advanced speed models, I built a Junior Monitor and flew it for some time, then had it hanging on the workshop wall for about 30 years. Eventually replaced the leadouts and sold it on Ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastFlyer Smyth Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Yes i did think about that idea Shaunie Thanks for that Peter, another little mystery cleared up. What did you replace the leadouts with ? Laystraight ?.and the tank would have been supplied with the kit ? Another part missing........ Good job I only paid a tenner for it. A happy new year to you both. Edited By FastFlyer Smyth on 01/01/2014 19:07:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 When I flew C/L I usualy used light bowden cable inner or heavyweight laystrate for leadouts rather than standard laystrate. Edited By PatMc on 01/01/2014 19:08:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 I used 7 strand Laystrate. for the leadouts. I have a very pecious reel of it still just for that job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilco Wingco Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 Can you use EMPTY beer cans to make tanks?. Thin, light and pliable , easily worked and the new low temp "solder" available from a well know auction site should do the trick?. What do you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D for Donald Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 What diam brass tube should be used, 1/8th or 3/32? Also has anyone got some ready drawn tank patterns they are willing to post on here? Edited By D for Donald on 22/11/2019 07:55:11 Edited By D for Donald on 22/11/2019 07:57:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 You normally make the tank to fit the space available. You will need a set of bend bars. These can be two lengths of engine bearer held together with a 1/4" bolt at each end with wing nuts on. Also I would say that a brass tube is not the best tube. You want 1/8" diameter copper tube as this can be bent without kinking. Another old dodge. Do not drill the holes in the sheet metal for the tubes. Make the holes with a nail.This will make a dimple round the hole which will fill with solder.The solder will also rise up making a fillet. This is far, far stronger than the drilled hole. I probably have some drawings but I will have to search through an awful lot of articles to find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D for Donald Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 Thanks Peter, helpful as always. I mentioned brass tube as I read somewhere diesel fuel reacts with copper? There a resurgence of interest in diesels in my club including ff radio assist and control line. Do you put little tabs on the flat parts of the tank or solder them in as flat plate? You might remember me, I built Oodlally some years back and it's still flying albeit after a few repairs. Edited By D for Donald on 22/11/2019 09:21:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 Wilco, when you say ' low temperature "solder" ', you mean metal wot melts into the joint, and not that glue sold as solder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilco Wingco Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 That's it. Also useful for making repairs to damaged engines. Great stuff and available on a well known auction site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 Posted by D for Donald on 22/11/2019 09:18:10: Thanks Peter, helpful as always. I mentioned brass tube as I read somewhere diesel fuel reacts with copper? There a resurgence of interest in diesels in my club including ff radio assist and control line. Do you put little tabs on the flat parts of the tank or solder them in as flat plate? You might remember me, I built Oodlally some years back and it's still flying albeit after a few repairs. Edited By D for Donald on 22/11/2019 09:21:00 Good to hear that there is an interest in control line again. I am glad that you are still enjoying Oodalally. It depends in the tank.usually a good smooth fillet of solder is fine. My tank for Destiny is just two square "U" shaped pieces of tin with no tabs. I always heard that it was brass tube that was affected by fuel. It never happened to me though. I will sexe what I can find in my old articles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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