Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Tom...the 91 4 stroke fits easily...it replaced a 70 4 stroke & certainly has a bit more power...it's a very nice combination. Initially it had a Evo 10cc petrol engine which I think has about the same power as a glow 46 & it certainly flew around OK but it was quite pedestrian. I'm not a speed merchant but I do like a model to keep going when I point the nose up. The 90 2 stroke would fit no problem I'm sure. As I observed earlier a 90 is not much bigger than a 60 after all.... Do let us know what you decide & how you get on.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ling Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Il let you know steve il put some pictures on not phaffing with a 46 denis lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Whiting Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Anyone tried an NGH17 in one ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 I just thought that a 46 would allow you to fly the model using the throttle stick fully, rather than at half stick with the 91 flying it like a rip rap. Put the 91 on a Wot 4XL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Although this is an old thread, I thought I would relight the love for the Acro Wot. I've just bought my second ARFT Acro wot. My 1st model served me well for several years untill gravity won the battle. I see there are lots of questions about engine choice, mine started life with a sc 52 2 stroke fitted, but finally met her maker fitted with a OS 65ax. I my opinion there is no need for anything bigger that a 55 2 stroke, plenty of vertical performance, but the 65 just added another level, although not really needed. After several minor repairs, it has finally ended in the bin after a high speed nose dive, the servo arm on the elevator stripped its threads casing it ti pow into the ground full speed. I've attached some pics of the mayhem. I'm planning on refitting the os65 once I've repaired the exhaust mount. But shall be using alloy arms in future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 I bought one of these today. Do you think I could get away with not gluing the wings together so I can separate them for transport? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter edmondson 1 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Congrats and welcome to the club.. The wings arnt That Big surely.. if the wooden joiner isnst glued in you would need something to stop the wings from folding. Probably need a tube glued in for a removable aluminium support so fairly major wing surgery... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Posted by Peter edmondson 1 on 04/09/2016 21:24:54: Congrats and welcome to the club.. The wings arnt That Big surely.. if the wooden joiner isnst glued in you would need something to stop the wings from folding. Probably need a tube glued in for a removable aluminium support so fairly major wing surgery... so the wooden joiner is not enough on its own without gluing? next question is I have some hitec 225mg servos apart from the physical size is there any reason I cant use these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter edmondson 1 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 If the wood is a really tight fit I suppose it could be okay... I know the doublers at the front of the wing slip into the fusleage without any play, so maybe. The torqure on those servos should be fine. Although they are very fast so use expo and slow the down. The ailerons and elevator dont need large throws and are very sensitive. The cg pos as stated in the book will leqve u way to nose heavy. Ill check mine and post tomorrow with where mine is. I"m using an asp 91fs with no lead. Flies lovely. Although I would have bought an 80 fs if I had to buy again.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 I was planning to put a laser 70 in mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Posted by Phil 9 on 05/09/2016 00:04:04: I was planning to put a laser 70 in mine. And me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 The problem is Phil, if you don't glue them what stops the wing from simply sliding off the joiner? BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 05/09/2016 07:44:56: The problem is Phil, if you don't glue them what stops the wing from simply sliding off the joiner? BEB each half has a bolt at the back a tab at the front just like the wot trainer but it has a wood joiner rather than a tube. but there is some play with the joiner fitting. I guess I will glue it rather than take the risk will my hitec 225 servos really be to fast? would I be better off buying some standard servos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 hello phil...don't worry about which servo's your going to use...the model will only fly the once and they'll be wrecked when the wings part company with model.....glue the joiner in as its needed to form part of the overall strength etc.... ken Anderson ...ne...1 .... joiner dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Yes, that tab and those bolts are really just to hold the wing in place - not together! But having said that I guess they could be adapted and beefed up a bit to do that.BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Muir Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 I think the joiner will work whether it's glued in or not, so long as it's a tight fit in the wing and the wing roots are firmly butted together and held in alignment. I've seen some pretty nippy gliders flown with plug-in wings where the only thing holding the wings to fuselage is a rubber band or a strip of tape. I don't think there's much in the way of outward force on a wing, more upward and downward. Or is that just me being over simplistic? Re the Wot Trainer: The only one I flew had a two piece wing and it flew fine like that even though the wing roots didn't meet in the middle properly and you could make the panels move a bit individually with a bit of wiggling. We glued them together in the end because it seemed safer somehow, but it didn't make a blind bit of difference to how it flew. Never liked it either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Allen Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Don't just glue the joiner, but also the ribs together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Posted by ken anderson. on 05/09/2016 08:06:17: hello phil...don't worry about which servo's your going to use...the model will only fly the once and they'll be wrecked when the wings part company with model.....glue the joiner in as its needed to form part of the overall strength etc.... ken Anderson ...ne...1 .... joiner dept. my old escapade 61 fitted with a 120 four stroke had only two plastic bolts and two ply tabs holding the two piece wing on and it never failed. but I will err on the side of caution and glue them. so any advice on servos use my hitec 225 or buy new standards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Cardona Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Posted by Phil 9 on 05/09/2016 00:04:04: I was planning to put a laser 70 in mine I Have a Laser 80 On my Acrowot (kit version) More than enough power, the 70 would be the sweet spot I guess. If you go back a few pages back in this Thread you will find some Photos of the engine installed in mine. Regarding the Wing, I suggest you don't change anything. It's not a Huge wing that it's difficult to store in a small car either, so why Bother. But anyway this is my Opinion. Regarding servo's, Standard for the ailerons will do fine including rudder. I would just put a 5kg unit on the elevator for piece of mind. a good mini servo for the throttle would do well. Regards Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 I bought an Acro Wot artf last week, i have always liked the look of this model and though i would have preferred to build one from a kit expediency meant buying an artf. Well the covering isnt great, and i have heard woes that even after re shrinking the wrinkles return, this sounds to me like the factory covering irons are too hot!Anyway i bought the electrification kit and apart from the motor mount and the poor quality spinner the rest of the bits are useless. The battery tray will not fit in the model due to the 2nd bulkhead being tank shaped and not tray shaped as in the booklet pics. If like me you hack the bulkheads open to get the tray in you quickly realise the cowl will also need abuse to get the tray out. I can see why others have abandoned the instructions and fitted the pack with access by removing the wing.... i get the feeling this is entirely intended for IC and nobody has even attempted the conversion using the accesiry kit and the fuselage as it comes.Very poor, and I am sure knowing Mr Foss's reputation, something he is not aware of..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 In two electric conversions I've done recently (Skyshark Fantasy and Ballerina) I've installed a hatch just behind the firewall in the fuel tank area. I know it was relatively easy for me as I built both models (from a kit and a plan respectively) but for someone of your undoubted skill, Danny, modifying the ARTF Acrowot would surely be child's play and not take too long. Wing removal for battery replacement is very inconvenient not only because of the hassle but replacing/removing the wing with a 'live' model isn't ideal. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Hi Geoff you miss my point this is an electric version but the parts supplied wont work. Sure i can convert a model to electric, but the hatch they have already cut is underneath. All the strength is in the top, so you cannot put a hatch there without re instating the strength underneath. An artf designed for electric should not need redesigning to work imoCheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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