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What electric flight battery connectors do you mainly use?


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I prefer EC3 and notice there is a EC5. Presumably, the EC5 is for 50 Amp plus.

Park Zone models use them, as well as the Spektrum Powersafe Rx's, and converting some of my PowerPole Anderson connectors to EC3, as the Anderson Connectors are good, but get brittle and snap.

Second is Deans, only in a couple of models, mainly Ripmax stuff.

Edited By Paul Marsh on 31/07/2012 19:52:08

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Erfolg.

If using bullets make sure you sleeve the whole of the female connector and not just the bit soldered.

From a past electronics background use female on the battery +ve and male on the battery -ve. Above rule still applies. I don't know what the regular convention is re models but I'm much happier using any 2 pin connector (Deans, XT60 etc.) Just seems a much safer way. Far fewer issues with shorting. I use XT60 on the few lipo's and electric power models I have.

Ian

 

Edited By Rentman on 31/07/2012 22:45:06

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I've been flying electric for over 20 years and I started using Power Poles/Sermos connectors many years ago. The trends seem to have changed over the years but I have too many of them to change now. Have never had a problem with them despite some 'experts' predicting failures at high currents. I have used them in everything from small Speed 400 pylon racers to 8 cell 80A models.

Unlike Tom Sharp 2 above I solder mine, I don't have a crimp tool.

Andy

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I use several. Mostly Sermos/Power pole as I find them easy to assemble-- 4 mm on ESC to motor,-Deans here and there for higher amp stuff but I find them too hard to take apart. I understand there is a new product out that attaches to the Deans to make it easier to take apart but I have not seen it here in the U.S.---Bob C in Kansas

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Well my RC modelling started with cars so Deans was a natural choice to begin with.I run all my 2s and 3s packs under 1000mAh on Deans micro and anything larger on the std or ribbed type.

Ive never had any continuity issues with Deans that a minor tweak couldnt sort but i did have a small fire on my Gaui 255 heli when one of the Deans micros shorted on the carbon mainframe and made a right messno

EB

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Hi there David, my apologies in advance for contacting you via the forum but from previous experiences you won't be surprised to find me struggling with your usual "modus operandus" in this forum. I am unable to convey a point of view without "stumbling" over my own feet. How does one P M someone? I would appreciate your advice in this area please?

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4mm bullet, male on the battery, on battery positive, female on negative.

Heat shrink covers the female completely, and on the male I leave unshrunk heatshrink past the exposed end as a shroud. Doesn't show too well on the funny squashed photos, but the principle is there. It shows OK if you click the photo for the link.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By Toni Reynaud on 06/08/2012 13:55:15

Edited By Toni Reynaud on 06/08/2012 13:56:20

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PowerPole on everything... Started with Deans on my 400 Heli, but HATED them,,, Horrible to solder and insulate, awful to pull apart inside a tight fuse....

I always solder my Powerpoles.. Never just crimp a flight battery, not worth the risk.. !!

Never got slightly warm or tarnished with upto 60A...

 

Luv

Chrisie.. xx

Edited By Cyclicscooby on 06/08/2012 17:34:04

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I use XT60s now as they are such a nicely designed connector. They are sometimes a bit difficult to pull apart, but I can live with that. I like the way that the + and - terminals are identified so you don't have to adopt your own convention. I've never had one melt during soldering but there are some out there that don't use high temperature nylon. I usually buy them from EBay from a top rated seller that states that they are high temp. They also tend to come with the correct heatshrink.

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Posted by Piers Bowlan on 31/07/2012 10:59:11:

XT60s are the new kid on the block so I doubt many will be using those at present unless they are new to electric flight. I quite like them but I have melted one or two when soldering. I don't seem to have the same trouble with Deans. Clearly my technique needs more work!

Piers

 

Make sure that you have two connectors pushed together when you solder - sinks the heat away and keeps the terminals aligned if you overdo it a bit with the iron.

Kev.

 

Edited By kevin goodwin on 08/08/2012 00:23:14

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Working in electronics I used a lot of 4mm banana plugs, so when I came to electric flight I looked at these fiddly untidy looking deans, said no, and used 4mm bullets. I have never used deans so dont know how good they are, although almost everyone at the field does use them

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Like many I started with deans, but after a couple of failures and a mate actually crashing a plane from Deans failure, I am gradually switching to XT60s, certainly on current loads more than 40amps. What I find is that the spring plates gradually flattens out and eventually contact becomes intermittant. A good clue to this happening is if you hear the esc re-initialise again after you've already connected moments before. Also if you wiggle the two connected plugs, and the esc bleeps again, this is a sure sign failure will happen soon.

4 or 5mm gold connectors are probably the best for reliability, but there is a greater risk of mis-connection and shorting out.

What convinced me originally was when I was flying a Lander Panther EDF. On making a distant long turn to the left, I suddenly lost all power and control. Luckily the Panther continued in a long sweep round in a perfect glide, and as it came close to me I regained power. I got her down in one piece. On inspection I found that if I touched the deans connector, the esc re-initialised.

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Wot no Tamiya connector option

I use Deans up to about 80A then start using the shielded 4mm bullets. Works for me!

Has anyone seen the Overlander batteries with the "venom" connectors- essentially a connector which you can plug converters onto for Deans / Tamiya etc. I really can't see the attraction here apart for newbies. Why have one source of failure and resistance when you can have two? no

I once saw a chart comparing connector resistances and consequential watts lost per kW. Quite interesting reading, not surprising those Tamiya connectors get hot- quite a few watts being given off.

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