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Oodalally


Peter Miller
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Suffering from old age and total designing block  I am going to 

 

Suffering from old age and a total designing block and lack of energy but needing something to get my interest I looked around and am going to do an electric powered version of Oodalally.

 

I really loved that model but it got demolished due to a brittle control horn.  I will not do a full build blog 

, just the modifications and being lazy I think I will probably invest in the Sarik short kit. 

 

I can then comment on this as well and any mods that I do.  I will keep as much of the original as possible, i.e. If I was building from scratch I would lengthen the sides to move the motor mount forward but instead will either pack the motor forward or use stand offs

 

I will also use two servos for the ailerons.  I hope to find ways of making things a bit lighter than the original as I likex lower wing loading.

 

Comparison of figures show that it will be perfect on a 3541 1070 motor. Luckily I have one spare.

 

Any comments welcome

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Peter, I would encourage you to design a proper electric version with the motor bulkhead further forward ( if required ) rather than use standoffs etc, so that the Lipo comes as far forward as possible.   To get the CG right without building the tail ultra light.   Also a top hatch for Lipo so it can be connected safely.

It's just my 'hobbyhorse' - getting the Lipo well forward.

 

To get your designing brain really buzzing why not incorporate something novel like some of those fancy ( ugly!) add-ons modern aerobatic competition models seem to need?

Edited by kc
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I love oodalally and have the plan here....

 

Were I to build it from the plan, I would build for electric, but probably leave the bulkhead where it is. I use the Richard Wills method of conversion:

  1. Cut a square hole in the bulkhead where the motor will go, and big enough for the LiPo, plus 15mm (at least) all around.
  2. Create a box with an open top. I use lightply/ Ply for this, depending on what I have, and the size of the model.
  3. The front of the box carries the (ply)  motor mount, the box itself is for the Lipo. 
  4. Fit the motor, slide the box in, and adjust it's position so the prop is centred in the cowl and the spinner gap is neat.
  5. Pack the motor box, glue in place, and support where necessary (I usually extend at least one face so it can be fitted to the next former.
  6. There you have a motor mount, a place for the Lipo which can be slid right up to the rear of the motor, and no significant changes to structure...

However, a redesign is obviously a blank sheet!

 

Graham

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I have two methods in mind.  

 

1)   If building from the precut kit I will add extensions to the sides and bring F-1 forward. Because there is no serious vibration simply adding extra 1/32 ply doublers to extend the side and move F-1 forward will be adequate.

 

I will use a hatch on the top and fit a floor in  the tank area for the battery. Basically my standard layout.

 

2)  If building from the plan it is even simpler just to make the sides that much longer from the start. and the rest as described.  The good old KISS principle.

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  • 1 month later...
4 hours ago, Steven Hurd said:

Peter. 
 

Have you managed to make any progress on this conversion, or do you have any mod pictures etc. 

 

thanks 

 

Steve 

OK,here as promised.

 

DSCF5206.thumb.JPG.36a98e57e61e644bd36a4e1fc4fa1aa8.JPG

F-1 is as per plan but with the bottom hole added.Also the holes for the thread rod stand offs. Drill these to match the motor mount. NOTE if usingthe Sarik pre cut kit fit one lamination back to back and cut the 14 circular bits that used to be the clearance fr the silencer and glue them to the former.  I cut mine from 1/4" ply. The 1/16th ply rear former for the cowl as shown. IT is marked to the full size of the front face of the fuselage. Note Screw heads in former and keyhole slots in cowl backplate

DSCF5210.thumb.JPG.6275cbc051b1a9d023b95e5c07d797de.JPG

Motor is mounted on 4mm threaded rod from 4Max.  The rear is 47 mm from F-1 but that can be adjusted. Not rear former for cowl in position.

 

 

DSCF5217.thumb.JPG.6fdf9122efe18b65dcd143861d1cb499.JPG

Fit an 1/8th ply battery platform with Velcro added. Support this at F-1 with a strip of hardwood under the platform. ALSO add scrap balsa to the back of F-1 to prevent the battery being damaged by the ends of the threaded rods. I have not done this yet.

DSCF5218.thumb.JPG.9b769542f6c1646e892f90d8a7b5528d.JPGDSCF5218.thumb.JPG.9b769542f6c1646e892f90d8a7b5528d.JPG

 

The cowl is built as per the original plan but on the rear cowl former.

 

 

DSCF5223.thumb.JPG.5564f2d7109ac64102093b03c3279b51.JPG

 

Battery hatch has dowel at the rear and latch at the  front.  It is a bit of a pain drilling the holes buy I have a Dremel right angle drive which makes like very easy.

 

As you can see conversion is very simple.  Motor is my standard 4-Max 3541 1070. Battery will be either a 2200 or 3000 Mah unit.

 

That is as far as I have gone so far but it covers all the modifications needed 

 

 

 

 

 


 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

Hello everyone,

 

I am en route to joining the club, having taken delivery of my plan, laser cut kit and wood pack from Sarik Hobbies.

 

Would anyone know if a copy of the build article is available anywhere? I can't seem to find that issue of RCM&E on eBay.

 

Oodalally will be my first non-full kit build and whilst it looks within my capabilities, would like to see what Mr. Miller advises!

 

Many thanks,

 

Neil

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Neil - welcome to the forum and if you want me to scan my copy of the original RCME article send me a Personal Message.

 

You can buy a digtal copy of the magazine here although normally Magazine Exchange has old RCME paper copies available.

You should read Peter Miller's RCME article because it contains more details of his wing building sequence.   It is very important to follow this sequence ( very similar in many of his recent models ) as it allows the not flat bottom wing ribs to sit on a flat building board.  Putting the LE lower sheeting and TE lower sheeting ( called cap strip in the article but not usual cap strips  just part of TE ) allows the ribs to just sit on a flat board.   Great idea that works well!   Try out a rib and some 1/16 sheet to see how this works if you don't understand my explanation.   Peter's way works!    I suggest plasterboard as a building board. 

You may want to see if my comments 11 March 2013 apply to the u/c mounts in your Sarik laser cut  parts ( hopefully they have amended the parts but check! )

 

 

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3 hours ago, kc said:

Neil - welcome to the forum and if you want me to scan my copy of the original RCME article send me a Personal Message.

 

You can buy a digtal copy of the magazine here although normally Magazine Exchange has old RCME paper copies available.

You should read Peter Miller's RCME article because it contains more details of his wing building sequence.   It is very important to follow this sequence ( very similar in many of his recent models ) as it allows the not flat bottom wing ribs to sit on a flat building board.  Putting the LE lower sheeting and TE lower sheeting ( called cap strip in the article but not usual cap strips  just part of TE ) allows the ribs to just sit on a flat board.   Great idea that works well!   Try out a rib and some 1/16 sheet to see how this works if you don't understand my explanation.   Peter's way works!    I suggest plasterboard as a building board. 

You may want to see if my comments 11 March 2013 apply to the u/c mounts in your Sarik laser cut  parts ( hopefully they have amended the parts but check! )

 

 

KC, that's a very kind offer, thank you. I will send you a PM.

 

I appreciate the advice, I will check your post and the UC mounts carefully.

 

Peter, I hope you recover soon.

 

Neil

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Peter, it was a pleasure to look up the Oodalally article again and scan it for Neil.   Gave me an opportunity to read the article again.  

This recent windy wet weather has restricted flying a lot - I am sure a few good flying sessions and a chat with clubmates will help us all a lot. 

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