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J2W's Barnstormer 52


jeff2wings
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This is a build of the original 52” span Barnstormer that Bodo designed back in ’69-’70 for single channel operation (he did a column under the name of button man at the time) needless to say I will have a few more functions than that ,might even go “full house” with it.

This will not be a full piece by piece blog as others are already doing so ,but will concentrate on the mods to make it a bit more up to date ,mostly dealing with the tail surfaces and construction of the fuselage and if I add ailerons ,the wing .So ,let’s get to it. smiley

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sides are cut from 3/32 ,a left and right of course wink

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3/32 sheet doubler added cross grain

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sides shortened for larger rudder

 

Edited By jeff2wings on 08/01/2014 21:31:44

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Jeff, I am wondering whether you have shortened the fuselage enough to increase the rudder to a useful size. Maybe relocate the vertical a bit? I mention this because it's been said before that Boddo didnt have a large enough rudder on other designs anyway. One of the problems with building this size of Barnstormer is making the dural cabane struts which presumably are smaller than the 63 inch ( 63 inch are avail from DB Sport )
Unless you are making a piano wire cabane where do you get the 3/32 dural strip or do you have a source for ready bent struts?

Edited By kc on 09/01/2014 12:01:03

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KC , the fully extended rudder will be around 30% of the fin area and should be more than sufficient for a model this size , although saying that I have added an extra 1/2" to the rudder and elevators on the 63 & 72 .

Not much done today ,made F3 & F4 and strut mounting blocks, and struts from 5/8 x1/8 ali

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gluing in progress smiley

Edited By jeff2wings on 09/01/2014 22:18:28

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Well Jeff the cabane strut looks just right. I think lots of people would be interested to know exactly how you make them accurately with both sides equal. It looks as though you marked the drawing with diagonal lines presumably you measured this distance.. Could you explain more......did you make jig or just bend them in the vice?
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Well not much of interest at the mo ,fuselage going together same as the 63, tail surfaces made but I have an idea with regards to the wing , I was thinking of adding ailerons ,but just for interest I will build the standard wing /wing section and then a wing with ailerons and a symmetrical section , I think it might be interesting to compare the general handling and aerobatic performance of the two .

This will require the wing struts to be removable as they will need to be different lengths for the differing AoI , I will need to make a second set so I will show how to form them for others interest

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I will be interested to see how you bend the struts accurately.

It seems to me you could make do with only 1 set of struts for different wing incidence / dihedral by increasing the packing under the wing i.e. gluing a thin sliver of ply into the wing at the wing bolt area on one wing.
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Is it electr*c surprise ! cough ,splutter ! the very idea .Seriously though it would make a good e.p. model at this size but I will be using a OS Max 15 ,Enya 19 ,possibly a OS 20 FS or even a AM 25 !?

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with the rear sheeting added time to start on the front end, starting with the u/c plate in 1/8 ply

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that is doubled up with a full width piece

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F2 going in ,I've added some 1/8 sheet to butt it up to and rest the tank floor on

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this time I've gone for snakes to make the bits at the back flap

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Wrap the snake outers with masking tape to aide gluing

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opps ! forgot that one ,still don't think it's going any where wink

Edited By jeff2wings on 18/01/2014 18:58:42

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Thanks for the words of encouragement chaps ,truth is I’m not very computer friendly and I find it hard going doing a detailed build blog as time spent at this infernal machine is (valuable ) time lost in the workshop indecision.

Anyway , last bit today

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found some 5/8 block so glued that in with a slot at the back to let the oil out , and if I use the AM 25 there will be a fair bit of that .

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rear deck found some 1/16 x 1/4 hardwood strip for the stringers

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I expect like me Tony ,you have a box of useful scrap bits ,although these days I limit my time looking for that bit I can use or you can end up wasting too much time frown

So ,I think I should detail how I go about the rear decking ,you can see I made F5 from 3 mm liteply and added some 1/4 in front of the tail plane then pinned the 1/8 spine in place ,then added the blank formers ( from the famous scrap box ) and glued in place.Then cut to shape buy eye so they are under size aprox 1/8" then it's a case of marking the run of the stringers and cutting the slots, it's a bit easier this way than trying to cut them using the ones shown on the drawings due to" local variations " wink

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I'm adding the dorsal fairing this time using a length of molded L/E I found

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1/8 "under side sheet added and F1 nose block part shaped

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