Max Z Posted June 12, 2015 Author Share Posted June 12, 2015 Posted by Erfolg on 12/06/2015 11:09:38: As for Wiggo, seems very interesting, although i would move the servos to easier to build in locations. that just goes to show... I thought this was about the easiest way of fitting the servo's, the only way I see to make it even easier is to fit the mounting plates flush with the sides, but then they will stick out further. And you have to butt the mounting plates to the balsa bits that make up the structure. If you are concerned about running the servo leads, do not worry. They can be pushed through the hole in the spreader and be grabbed from the front through the hatch with a pair of pliers. Max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Max, not meant as criticism. The hard bit is actually designing the first item, it is significantly easier to incrementally improve, or just to change thins. In my case I would move the elevator servo up to the top rail. There would in my opinion be a improvement in the geometry of the servo to elevator surface horn. Then there is a knock on benefit of re-enforcement of the junction where two longerons meet. The rudder servo is more contentious, it is perhaps marginally better to move the mounting onto the lower longeron, which would locally be reinforced, although arguably this could increase the weight, very slightly. If this was done it would make F10 into a simple cross piece rather than a former. These are all detailed changes, the most significant is the servo geometry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted June 12, 2015 Author Share Posted June 12, 2015 The servo geometry has been taken care of, Erfolg. The shape of the elevator control horn is such that the imaginary line connecting the hinge point to the point where the servo linkage connects is at right angles to the linkage, and by setting the servo arm the same way the movements will be as linear as with a more conventional geometry. As for the structural considerations, I don't quite understand what you mean, but I guess you can argue about it anyway. I opted for reinforcing the joints between the middle longeron and the uprights, and if you meant extending them to the top or lower longeron, yes, that would improve strength somewhat, but to the cost of extra weight. Max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Mchugh Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Max, Do you have a shopping list / BOM for all the wood that is needed to build one of these? I wouldn't mind swinging by the LMS on the way home a making a mass balsa purchase and I don't have the mag to hand... D'Oh! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Max, many will be using standard horns, so the alternative position works better when using std. horns. It is not worth making an issue out of the intersection, of the sloping and horizontal longerons, other than observe that in general it is good engineering practise to have a compensating plate to accommodate the discontinuity of the stresses. Yet, at the end of the day, it is only a model aircraft, the improvement is of such a low order that any break will just occur somewhere else for any arrival. In the case of the lower servo, it is not worth discussing. You can argue that the present position is on the neutral axis. The other way of looking at things is that any re-enforcements are best on the outer fibres of a beam (the fuz is a beam). Then you get into a discussion that any local re-enforcement is a discontinuity, which have a differing stress distribution, and so on. At the end of the day, it is a model airplane which has a minimised structure, and not worth any argument, other than perhaps, for those using std. elevator horns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted June 12, 2015 Author Share Posted June 12, 2015 Posted by Jim Mchugh on 12/06/2015 14:30:31: Max, Do you have a shopping list / BOM for all the wood that is needed to build one of these? Probably past going home time, but here goes: If you do not order the short kit from rbckits.com, these are about the quantities you need: Lightply (I used poplar) 3mm: 700 x 200 mm (included in the short kit) Balsa 3 mm: 4 sheets 1000 x 100 mm (3 of which included as parts in the short kit) Balsa 6 mm: 1 sheet 1000 x 100 mm ( half sheet for strip material, other half for parts as included in the short kit) Balsa 1.5 mm: 1 sheet 1000 x 100 mm A tiny piece of 1.5 mm birch ply, say 100 x 100 mm (for control surface horns, L/G straps, tailwheel bearers, included in the short kit) Balsa 8 x 8 mm: 1 x1000 mm strip (wing L/E) Balsa(hard) 4x4 mm: 4 x 1000 mm strips (wing sub-spars) Balsa(hard) 8 x 3 mm: 2 x 1000 mm strips ( (wing spars top/btm) Piano wire 3 mm (L/G) and 1.5 mm dia. (tailwheel, servo links) Main wheels 60 - 70 mm dia. Tail wheel 25 mm dia Wheel retainers (include one extra for use as tail force compensation, sorry cannot remember the proper terminology) Max. Edited By Max Z on 12/06/2015 16:52:38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Mchugh Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Max, Sorry but you've confused me a little here...! rbckits.com does not appear to have a Wiggo wood pack / kit. They do have the motor cowl vacform. What is the "short kit" you keep mentioning above. If rbckits.com do start selling a Wiggo woodpack, then I'll wait to buy it, else I'll have to source myself from LMS... Cheers! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted June 12, 2015 Author Share Posted June 12, 2015 Jim, it is on their site now. Max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 As Jim said what's the short pack ? Is it missing something that's optional ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy G. Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 A short kit is basically all the tricky/fiddly bits, like formers, ribs, etc etc.. You need to supply additional strip wood and sheet wood to finish the kit.. Basically it saves you transferring and cutting the ''shaped'' parts.. If you look on the rbc site under Wiggo there is a photo showing exactly what you get for your 69 Euros.. ( about £50 ).. I bought the rbc short kit for their Red Eagle glider last year and was very impressed with it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 A warning for prospective builders of the Wiggo: make sure you instal the extra wheel collet that takes the loads from the tailwheel and transfers them to the fuselage. If your collet is a tight fit on the wire, it needs to be threaded on before you make the final bend. The collet is shown on the drawing and in the pictures, but on hindsight I should have drawn attention to it in the building instructions. It is a must to install the collet, otherwise the forces generated by landing and taxying are transmitted to the single hinge, which will most likely fail as a clubmate of mine already experienced. Max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rene Wallage Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Ok, got the issue. Pull out the plan tonight. Get it copied (so I have one copy to drool, and one to cut up and build). And than put in first place on my building list. Right under the repair list... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgraf Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Hi Max Great Design. I love it (and will build one). Where did you buy the pilot ? Normally I don't put pilots into my planes but this one will be an exception Thanks for the very nice design Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 Hi Chris, Thanks for the kind words. I made the pilot myself, it is nothing more than a piece of foam carved and sanded to shape (sort of a burger shape with a bit cut off ), painted with acrylic paint and some pieces of covering material ironed on it at a low heat setting. Max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 For instructional purposes only (should not normally be viewed this close ) Max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rene Wallage Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 I caved in... Had a rotten day at work, put in a 18 hour day, got home and clicked on buy. The full kit, not even the short kit. Oh well, I'd better check my spares drawer. Servos I have, Lipos I have, FrSky Rx I think I have (but should I go for a small short range 4Ch one or a "full" 8Ch), I have a 40A ESC, I don't think I have a 1000Kv motor though. HK here I come! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 I was camped next to Max, the designer, at the RCME Greenacres fly in last month. He had the prototype with him and it seemed to fly very well. If I hadn't got so many projects on the go right now I'd be tempted myself. I've been a Bradley Wiggins fan for some years so I think I know who my pilot would look like IIRC Max explained the name meant wedge in Dutch, rather than a reference to my 'hero'. I'll watch your build with interest. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Hi the fr sky 4 CH RX has a 1.5 to 2.5 km range ! How far can you see your model: -). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rene Wallage Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 It's not the range I am contemplating, it's the possibility of aileron mixing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Good for you René! Let us know how you are getting on with the construction. You don't really need aileron mixing, a Y-cable will suffice. Aileron throws are symmetrical, and unless you are thinking of flaperons (which you don't really need, Wiggo will slow down nicely for landing without them), there is no need for operation of both servo's by individual Rx channels. Max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgraf Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 Got my Kit yesterday evening. Very nice design Max (and quiet nice kit quality) Construction starts immediately , means today after work... Best regards Christoph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rene Wallage Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Checked the drawer. I've got a 40A Turnigy ESC, a Turnigy 3530 1100Kv AND a 3536 1100Kv, just need to get a rear mounting frame for either one. Would Hextronic 900 servos do the job? I got 8 or 9 of them... Just need to get an Rx than... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Posted by Rene Wallage on 07/08/2015 14:31:22: Would Hextronic 900 servos do the job? Hard to say, they are only 1.6 kg.cm. I used 2.5 kg.cm metal gear servo's (12 g). I would go for MG for the rudder servo at least, it gets treated a bit rough now and then by the tailwheel. Also, check the dimensions of your motors, you may need some spacers to get it to protrude through the cowl. Max. Edited By Max Z on 07/08/2015 15:32:57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rene Wallage Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Got the kit. Quick question; of the 2 balsa f3 sides, one is longer then the other. Am I right, thinking the shorter one should be on the right side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 Rene, both F3 sides should be equally long. Best way to check is to fit ply parts F1 and F2 on both F3 balsa sides, they should extend forward to the same point. I checked my original CAD design, and it looks like I made a mistake in extracting the parts, so you have to glue a 3 mm balsa strip to the shorter side. This is best done after basic assembly of the fuselage, i.e. after glueing F7 in. The position of the firewall is set by the notches in F1/F2 anyway, so you can't go wrong there. Max, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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