chris meek 1 Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 Once the epoxy dries I'll sand it then itll get a coat of primer ready for some detail!! I'm happy with the brown paper method for covering so that's the plan for the fuselage. Still enjoying the build and dead happy with how it's coming on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 I have to say, I do like the brown paper covering method - easy to do, quick and works well (plus it's cheap!!). One mornings work and the fuselage has been papered, doped sanded and given its first coat of primer. Will glue the horizontal stabilisers next then will start work on the cockpit details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Fentiman Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Thanks Gary, am enjoying the build and there's definitely a sense of achievement from building something from a pile of balsa and a set of plans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 In the last week I've fixed the horizontal stabilisers in place and fitted the elevators and rudder. Also started to add some detailing, the entry hatch on the side of the cockpit has been scribed in along with the hatch behind the wing. The stiffener above this I've glued in place. Finally, I've started work on the cockpit - made up an instrument panel and the inside of the access hatch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Following the build very closely and it looks great.....dumb question? What is the brown paper method? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 Not dumb, if you Google www.warbirdreplicas.co.uk and download their spitfire build manual it explains it - basically the cheapest brown wrapping paper you can get, paste the dull side with diluted pva and then put it on what you're covering - smooth it down with a covering iron. Leave it to dry then a single coat of diluted non shrinking dope. Once dried give it a light sanding. Sounds like a lot to do but easier to do than explain!! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 Some time spent making up some of the cockpit details, not in the same league as some by a long way but it's been enjoyable! I'm trying to remind myself that a lot of it won't be visible once the canopy's attached so a representation of what's in the real thing is all that's needed - I'll leave the photo realistic cockpits to the masters!! Will have to start thinking how I'm going to make the crew, think there's another thread on this forum so will look for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Well I think that's enough cockpit detailing for now. I've added the armour plating for the navigators seat, the radio at the rear and the control column for the pilot. Once I've made myself a set of crew I might add a bit more (map of the Norwegian coastline and a gunsight maybe) when the canopy framing is in place that'll be the end of it I think. The plan is to put the elevator and rudder servos in and connect them up and start on the crew. After that I'll have to put a stop to building whilst I raid the piggy bank to order the wood for the wings although if the canopy's not glued down I might add a bit more bits to the cockpit. I'll admit it, I think I'm becoming addicted!! Anyway, toodlepip for now Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIGGER Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Just came across this thread, and love the brown paper idear, going to try it on my tiger moth, i can't get dope out here in Cyprus, what else could I use?. I love this Mossie and will be following it , great work . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Posted by DIGGER on 28/10/2016 07:10:10: Just came across this thread, and love the brown paper idear, going to try it on my tiger moth, i can't get dope out here in Cyprus, what else could I use?. I love this Mossie and will be following it , great work . Digger, brown paper works best on a solid balsa sheeted airframe like the Mosquito or nearly all of the other WW2 military aircraft. A Tiger Moth, both the model and the real thing, have a wooden frame with fabric stretched over it.* If your model is 1.5 metres in the wingspan or bigger, I'd recommend Solartex as the appropriate covering material. It's more expensive than brown paper but it provides a strong and more authentic fabric finish. * I'm not an expert on the Tiger Moth. Perhaps the fuselage was made of steel tubing with fabric stretched over it. Be that as it may, it was covered in linen. The wings and tailplane were definitely made of wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 Posted by DIGGER on 28/10/2016 07:10:10: Just came across this thread, and love the brown paper idear, going to try it on my tiger moth, i can't get dope out here in Cyprus, what else could I use?. I love this Mossie and will be following it , great work . Thanks for the compliment - agree that the brown paper method is best used for sheeted structures - for the tiger moth with open frame structure I'd maybe go another route. I think the non shrinking dope just goes on to give a tough finish to sand down/prime. If you can't get it I think you could possibly use some water based finishing resin (can't remember the name of the modelling stuff but ronseal varnish I think is basically the same stuff - best to check on a test piece first though!!) to get the same result. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 Spent this afternoon with the super sculpty clay and a cocktail stick. Another thing I've never done before but have enjoyed! Once the legs are done I'll make a mold from latex. Then out comes the expanding foam!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 What is that stuff, it looks interesting and you have obviously made a very good job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 Posted by Martin McIntosh on 28/10/2016 18:49:55: What is that stuff, it looks interesting and you have obviously made a very good job? Thanks Martin. It's called super sculpey and is a bit like working with clay. Once you're happy with the shape you have you heat it in the oven. I got it from e bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 One crewman finished. The forearms and legs stayed in the oven a bit longer than the rest which is why they're darker in colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Looks good your sculpting talents are better than mine thats for sure. Are you going to use the original or make a mould to make a lightweight version?A trick with sculpy is to immerse delicate parts in boilng water to harden the outer crust CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 29, 2016 Author Share Posted October 29, 2016 Posted by Danny Fenton on 29/10/2016 11:07:24: Looks good your sculpting talents are better than mine thats for sure. Are you going to use the original or make a mould to make a lightweight version? A trick with sculpy is to immerse delicate parts in boilng water to harden the outer crust Cheers Danny Thanks Danny. Will be using latex to make a 'female' mold that I'll then fill with expanding foam to make the final lightweight figures. (idea unashamedly stolen from another part of this forum! ). Think he'll be okay - his hands look a bit pigs trottery but the first set looked like they were out of Wallace and grommit. Won't be too visible when in the cockpit so will do for now. He'll be navigator, next up is the pilot. Toodlepip Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 30, 2016 Author Share Posted October 30, 2016 Pilot on his way, thought I'd try having him without his oxygen mask. If I'm not happy with the end result both crew will end up with the head from the first mold. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 30, 2016 Author Share Posted October 30, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIGGER Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Posted by David Davis on 28/10/2016 07:40:53: Posted by DIGGER on 28/10/2016 07:10:10: Just came across this thread, and love the brown paper idear, going to try it on my tiger moth, i can't get dope out here in Cyprus, what else could I use?. I love this Mossie and will be following it , great work . Digger, brown paper works best on a solid balsa sheeted airframe like the Mosquito or nearly all of the other WW2 military aircraft. A Tiger Moth, both the model and the real thing, have a wooden frame with fabric stretched over it.* If your model is 1.5 metres in the wingspan or bigger, I'd recommend Solartex as the appropriate covering material. It's more expensive than brown paper but it provides a strong and more authentic fabric finish. * I'm not an expert on the Tiger Moth. Perhaps the fuselage was made of steel tubing with fabric stretched over it. Be that as it may, it was covered in linen. The wings and tailplane were definitely made of wood. Thanks for your help, after what you said I will have to use solartex , and hope I can get it sent out here with out them folding it and creasing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Posted by DIGGER on 02/11/2016 05:40:36: Thanks for your help, after what you said I will have to use solartex , and hope I can get it sent out here with out them folding it and creasing it. Digger, even if it's creased you should be able to shrink the creases out of Solartex with a little heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIGGER Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Thank you David. Some people I have spoken to have had it sent folded down tight in an envelope. But I shall see. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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