chris meek 1 Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 Well I've now had one of those 'i wish I'd done this earlier' moments. Decided to solder a copper control horn onto the flaps as didn't have much confidence in the paxolin/epoxy method. It was interesting to say the least trying not to set light to the flaps I'd spent hours getting to fit! The second flap crank was much easier as it isn't yet fitted in the flaps, but on future builds I'll make sure I solder before I bend the wires to shape... Once I'd done that I cut out and marked up the lower aileron sheet, I'm thinking of trying to make up my own rds system to keep the control linkage for the ailerons hidden rather than have control horns on show- worth a try at least. I've also looked at where I'll position the flap servo - although it will be a tight fit it should fit in engine nacelle undercarriage bay (with a bit of luck!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 After a second look at the ailerons I decided that if it was good enough for Mr T, it is good enough for me! So decided to follow the plans for hinging the ailerons. Seems ok to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 https://youtu.be/HY32Gq-chlg Flaps connected up, seems to work fine. Still plodding on. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 https://youtu.be/HY32Gq-chlg Flaps arent fixed in permanently yet - will cover and prime them before epoxying in place. Edited By chris meek 1 on 08/09/2017 14:17:04 Edited By chris meek 1 on 08/09/2017 14:20:11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Right then folks have a question for you. If I was looking at powering this with electric rather than glow I would be looking at a set up of around 130 watts per pound of weight (I think). Does that mean each motor would need to supply that, or would I be able to half this figure as it's a twin engine design? I'm completely new to electric flight but the more time I put into this build the less I want to risk disaster with an engine failing. Hope someone can point me in the right direction. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hi, If you want 130w per pound then its total weight times 130, you then need a motor set up that can achieve that figure. It does not matter if its one motor doing all the work or two doing 50% or four doing 25%. I am totally electric, but every time I fly my BH Mossie there is something missing, yes electric has its place but every time I fly an electric warbird I think...now that would sound nice with an IC in it. I have zero experience with IC, but with a model that size it would have to be a couple of IC motors probably Lasers for reliability. PS Electric are not immune to a single motor failing, my mossie did it last week, its about how you manage it after it does it that counts! (1 buried, 1 rebuilt & 1 no damage !) Edited By Chris Walby on 14/09/2017 21:47:09 Edited By Chris Walby on 14/09/2017 21:52:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Well, mine draws (drew?) about 46A at say 15V which is near enough 1400W between them for a 14lb model. I used Tgy Prop Drive 50/50 motors on 4s. They are to the same spec. as TN`s originals. This of course works out at 100W/lb but I felt that it was a little under powered so the intention was to try 5s. When I get round to repairing it after an ESC failed I may try this but they are a very tight squeeze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Thanks for the advice guys, there's still time before I have to make a final decision on it. Will have to figure out best set up for it and cost it up... If I went electric at least I wouldn't have the 'challenge' of making my own exhausts for it. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 Still making progress slowly. Retracts mounted on the wing, clearance is definitely tight in there but it does fit! I'm still happy with how it's going together and it's always a good feeling when you overcome a challenge. Once I've connected the retract up to the servo it'll need a tensioning spring attached to help it lift the leg - gravity will help it extend it. It's as per the plans in this respect - Brian Taylor does suggest using an air system to prevent it dropping out under any 'g' but that was using a single servo for both retracts linked up with bellcranks whereas I'm using one servo per side. Flaps are disconnected at the moment to cover, once done I'll glue them in place. Wheels on this aren't the ones I'll use when finished - just to give an idea of how it will look. They're not a big enough diameter to be scale and I think I'd rather find some lighter weight ones as they're quite heavy to be behind the c of g when retracted. I think mick reeves supplies some sort of foam to make your own so I may have a look at that.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 Well after a bit of tinkering I think I've got the geometry right for the gear to retract fully. A bit of trial and error with the spring that takes some of the load from the servo when the gear is retracted but I think I'm in the right ball park for it. There's still a bit of play in the system but I think that's just because the brass arm isn't epoxied fully in place on the leg so there's a bit of slop between the servo and the gear. Nothing a bit more adjustment shouldn't sort. Lastly - using the servo slow function on the taranis transmitter gives it a more scale-like retract speed. Hopefully the videos show it properly. **LINK** **LINK** Now only need to get the second wing up to the same stage! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 Well done Chris top job 👏 q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 Posted by Martian on 29/10/2017 17:55:49: Well done Chris top job 👏 q Thanks, much appreciated. It's been a bit of a roller coaster ride as sone things have worked, and others haven't, still it's figuring out the problems that's half the fun! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 Well done Chris, maybe a curve in the servo response would prevent that initial jerk. Now for the doors ------. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 Posted by Martin McIntosh on 29/10/2017 21:39:17: Well done Chris, maybe a curve in the servo response would prevent that initial jerk. Now for the doors ------. Ah the doors your cruel Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 Posted by Martian on 30/10/2017 10:06:13: Posted by Martin McIntosh on 29/10/2017 21:39:17: Well done Chris, maybe a curve in the servo response would prevent that initial jerk. Now for the doors ------. Ah the doors your cruel Martin But the doors will be easy - it's just getting them the right shape and size, fittingand closing properly that will be the difficult part!!!! Martin - will have to look at putting a curve on the servo. I think the initial jerk you can see is because the retaining spring gets caught slightly on a part of the retract leg as it starts to rotate backwards which stops the spring from compressing - then when it clears it the spring starts compressing causing it to jerk upwards. I'll look at moving the springs position to see if it stops it. As well as playing with the retract today (can't help it, just watching it gong up and down!) I've given the flaps a quick coat of primer before sanding them down. Unfortunately somehow I managed to break the soldered joint on the control horn on the flaps so had to re do that - which meant I then had to adjust the linkage from the servo... One step forward and several backwards! At least it's sorted now though. Next step I think will be to start on the other wing.... If I can stop playing with the retract on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted October 6, 2018 Author Share Posted October 6, 2018 Just a quick update for anyone that was following this thread, as expected the arrival of our baby son on new years day has seriously slowed progress on this build! I have been making slow progress on the second wing half to get it to a similar stage to the first. Just about to put the top sheeting on the flaps. Slow progress is still progress!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted May 3, 2019 Author Share Posted May 3, 2019 **LINK** Well I think the retracts are just about finished apart from some final minor adjustment... At the moment both servos are being run through a single 6v receiver battery - the plan is that they'll each have a separate 6v battery installed in the nacelles so that if either of them stalls I'll still have flight control. Been nice to make some progress on things! Edited By chris meek 1 on 03/05/2019 23:37:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR 71 Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 Just found this thread, as my next build is this model i will read it through from post one Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 Best of luck with the build, I've found it a challenging but interesting project. The airframe itself isn't too difficult, looking back on it I think the most 'head scratching - need a brew to figure this out' moments so far have been with the retracts. Hope you find the thread helpful. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 I can't believe it's been 5 years since I started this build! Tbh it's still on hold and sat in the garage, other commitments have meant lack of time to keep up with it. I have recently been looking at alternative ways of getting the uc working without using a servo, slowly moving forward with that and will post an update if it works. Either way, if it doesn't I've still got the servo method to fall back on and will hopefully get more of the airframe done next year! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 Chris are you following David Q's antics on RCSB? He is just at the retract stage on his build, he is a master at this. If not let me know and i will send a link Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris meek 1 Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 Hi Danny, I've been looking at a lot of the builds on rcsb, some amazing builds on there, I did look at lado actuators that were used on one of the builds but they were too pricey! I'm using the idea though to try and sort something similar, if my limited engineering skills allow it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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