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Ryan Williams
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Ryan, if you didnt realise the vital difference between the 2.4Ghz T6J and a 35Mhz Tx then you really need to check out the frequency control method used at clubs when people use 35 Mhz. With any 35 Mhz ( or 40Mhz or 27 Mhz) you can 'shoot down' anyone else using the same frequency just by switching the Tx on............Therefore it is essential to know exactly what frequency your Tx is using and then follow the clubs Tx control method ( frequency peg board etc )

And of course even if you dont fly in a club the same problem occurs if you are in range of any club or lone flier - you can shoot them down just by switching on the same channel.

Any equipment for planes should have batteries that are in first class condition. Anything with old nicads ( or Nimh or dry cells) is likely to be suspect if it is old or has not been in regular use. So it's essential to check batteries and also the switch and wiring harness etc for corrosion or loose wires.. Then a range check should be carried out before any flying is attempted.

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If you are intending to use a Futaba transmitter with the Trex 250 you will need to reverse the throttle servo on the tx. For some reason best known to themselves, Futaba seem to use a reversed signal on the throttle compared to what most esc manufacturers expect. I would recommend that you get someone who understands helicopter programming to check your set up on that and conduct your initial tests without the rotor blades on the helicopter. the Trex 250 is a small hell, but can still do a lot of damage if it starts at full throttle unexpectedly.

Edited By Robert Armstrong 2 on 27/05/2015 17:36:36

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I would recommend getting down a local club or someone who knows their stuff. Also as your knowledge is very limited(not knowing the difference between 2.4 and 35mhz), and flying experience none, the chance of success is zilch, maybe even do some damage either to yourself on a live electric model, blow the battery up or try and fly and crash.

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Posted by Paul Marsh on 27/05/2015 18:00:09:

I would recommend getting down a local club or someone who knows their stuff. Also as your knowledge is very limited(not knowing the difference between 2.4 and 35mhz), and flying experience none, the chance of success is zilch, maybe even do some damage either to yourself on a live electric model, blow the battery up or try and fly and crash.

Seconded

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Flying in a club is best and of course insurance is essential in case you hit someones car or worse.

Note the story in this months BMFA News about the man who blinded himself in one eye whilst preparing a helicopter in his living room.....

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OK, quick recap... This is your model;

Are you using a separate battery to power the receiver, or powering it from the LiPo? Whichever, have you charged the battery - using a suitable charger?

Secondly - before going any further, take the prop off. The last thing you want is the motor running unexpectedly when you do get it working. (Alternatively make sure you know the location of your local A&E unit and can get there quickly...)

Do you have any other 35MHz receivers you can try? Or another 35MHz transmitter? Or does a clubmate have either? You've switched the tx to PPM - good, as PCM won't work with the GWS rx!

Using the Futaba transmitter, channel 1 is aileron, 2 is elevator, 3 is throttle and 4 is rudder. So your speed controller should be plugged into channel 3, not 1. Though it would still power the receiver if you're powering it via the speed controller from the LiPo. If you're using a separate battery for the receiver then plug it in to any free socket - though you may as well use 8B as that is labelled for the purpose (but electrically it makes no difference.)

The Futaba transmitter needs to use a Futaba transmitter crystal. I know from experience that a GWS transmitter crystal 'sort of' works in a Futaba T7CP - but very badly as it's transmitting almost half a channel off-frequency. I think the GWS receiver can use standard Futaba receiver crystals - but I'm not certain.

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I do have some experience with flying and I've been flying a simulator for ages aswell. (Picasim) I'm not able to join a club really. I did email my local one anyway but didn't get a reply. I have health problems that wouldn't really allow it anyway. I'm aware the prop is dangerous and have been unplugging the speed controller and/or securing the plane. I'm extra aware of the dangers... I've flown one small foam plane that I became proficient with before it conked out. Since then (Last summer) I've been using Picasim in an effort to get used to the control flip. I am both ready and prepared! I'm just picking up where I left off last summer that's all. I've also flown flybar helis which I can fly proficiently. I've also been simulating the collective pitch helicopter as that is new to me. I've gotten the hang of it on a simulator and I have flown a smaller helicopter collective aswell... Thanks for the information I'll get that rtested tommorow. D I had thought the speed controller was powered by the main battery? I'm using a Turnigy balance charger yes...

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I'd really like to be able to be shown the ropes by a seasoned pilot but I'm not sure that's going to happen... So here I am trying to learn what I can and get my new plane in the air hopefully... But it will likely have to be alone because that's how things are here..

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Ryan has pointed out that for health reasons he finds it difficult to get to a club and commit to it. What he needs really is just someone to stand by him for an afternoon and explain how these bit go together - or at least find out definitively that they won't go together! So how about it Bath-based modellers?

BEB

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Thanks for those links anyway, a one off visit to a club could happen if they were up for it.. I would normally be flying my little Chinooks in this weather too but I figured I'd have more progress if every time I got the flying itch I worked on trying to get the Spad fighter and Trex going this year. All or nowt this year.

I can offer to pay for your time if anyone could possibly come and help out... That or I have a helicopter here that IS too much for my experience level which I had planned to sell. Getting my two in the air is easily worth giving that away... It's a Horobo shuttle with fuel conversion in really good condition. We'd part company at the end of the day equally happy I assure you! :D

Being able to problem solve with people here in the forum is helpful also though. I'm getting there with the knowledge but problems amplify with lack of experience I suppose. We've got to start somewhere though and a club isn't an option for me unfortunately. Cheers BEB yes

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Look in the BMFA club finder and see your local club. Find the secretary and ask him when you could bring your models along to the club to get some advice. Make sure you mention helicopters if that's what you need help with. That's all you need to do - it's not necessary to join the club because any good club will give advice in the hope you might decide to join them. Just turning up at the field when members are there should get some basic help. ( note people only fly in good weather! this weekend may be too windy )

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Posted by Ryan Williams on 28/05/2015 11:16:08:

I've ordered another battery. I'll see what I can do today to check the continuity throughout the system. I do have other chips and I've tried them to no effect aswel which seems to point at power as the issue.. Still trying anyway..

How are you going to charge said battery? What charger have you got?

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I have this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TURNIGY-2S-3S-LIPO-BALANCE-CHARGER-/261627296777?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cea33bc09

I'm testing it with a multi meter and my existing battery is reading full in one cell, half in the other and half again in the third which I judged to be ok based on a friends evaluation of how lipos work. That charger shows a red light for my battery and I've had it charging for ages and no change.

I should also mention I have a suspect connection with the plug that comes off the speed controller to connect the battery. I couldn't solder it so it's pushed in and electrical taped right up. That's got to be sorted out. Electrically conducive glue would be ok I would have thought. This is the battery I'm using and I've ordered the same one again...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnigy-Lipo-2200mAh-3S-11-1v-20C-30C-Burst-UK-Stock-/171427930079?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27e9e69fdf

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You say that you have not joined a club because of difficulty getting there apparently. No one seems to have asked the following;

Do you have insurance for flying models? You can injure yourself and others and cause damage, big reason for joining the BMFA direct if not a local club.

As you do not intend to join a club, do you have access to a suitable, safe place to fly from, with permission, either individually or collectively? If this is a local park, is it acceptable under the local bye laws etc? See previous question.

Your comments about the state of the cells in your lipo are not encouraging, individual cells should be close in voltage and capacity (balance charging ring any bells?). Get a specific lipo battery checker. The Fusion Smart Guard seems most common. Youtube video www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAUeXk89Gv4

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You need to be aware that a loose connection anywhere is likely to cause a crash. If the Lipo to ESC connection is not firrmly soldered it will vibrate loose & cause a complete lack of power to the Rx and the model will go out of control. ( unless a separate Nicad or BEC is being used)

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Ryan

If the Lipo cells are as you say they are you have not balanced charged them correctly or the Lipo is on the way out

Looking at the photo of the charger you linked to, it seems to charge through the balance leads - how long did you charge it for? Did you totally flatten the Lipo before hand (if so you have probably killed it), what power supply are you using for the charger (it needs to be a steady state power supply not a car battery charger)

Also 35Mhz and Electric flight are not the best of bed fellows as 35Mhz is prone to noise interference from the ESC/Motor

To find out whats wrong with your set up, you need to take it step by step, if you have an RX battery, try eliminating the ESC and Motor by powering the RX directly from a battery and plug a servo into the RX, then get it working on the simplest set up possible, then gradually add in the other components one by one to find the point where it stops working

But as has said before your chances will be improved dramatically if you go to a club

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